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I got phcked.

The company won. I was stuck there till 6 pm. Even at that, I still walked out ( w/o permission) at 6.

Bottom line, by the time I got out of there, there was nothing left in me except taking Kate out to dinner...And that always ends up costing me over 100 bucks...In this case it was actually closer to 160.00 after the tip...But,....it's just me-n-her......and the kids are grown,...
And we make enough,...
And I don't do this everyday,...
And I was too pissed to even try to spend a minute on the Monster,....
Cause that's all I had left....
After they phcked me out of my day off....

I actually DID get what I needed to finish this tonight..on the way home, I tell her to turn into the HD so that I could go in and buy what I needed to make everything fit.
And I did take a few pics last night to give the picture hounds enough to keep them happy...but was either too tired, or too something else to bother posting them.

So,..here
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One of the "best tools I've ever purchased"
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Of the two adapters I have, this one is now killed..courtesy of a too agressive drill angle.
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The hole drills through two surfaces, and exposes the inner return to the open drain directly into the pan that used to have a cam driven oil pump feeding..
Now there's just a hole there...like I said...huge oil leak..straight into the pan.
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This is why I decided to start with the spare adapter...if anything looks like a potential disaster..its this thing.

But, here it is,..sporting a plugged up first attempt, a currently working -4 second attempt,...and the newly extended return fitting that will allow the lower radiator hose to fit.

And of course...
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The new pump, the newly sealed iron lung,..waiting on their respective hoses to make them work..
 
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Do you know what it is?.....A kobayashi maru?

It's not real...but for tonight, and this restart,... I'm having to deal with it.

A kobayashi maru is the "No win scenario" that Star Fleet Cadets had to deal with as one of their final exams before graduating the academy...Of course you'd have to be some Star Trek Goob to know all that, or at the very least have had to have watched Star Trek II....and for me, it's the latter......The movie had the first really decent special effects that I'd ever seen on the big screen,......And as Star Trek movies go,...I'm saying it was the first "good" attempt at bringing the hopelessly campy 60's TV series into the 80's

But the Kobayashi Maru,..........( say it in JT Kirk here, by pausing and enunciating each word) The No..Win...Scenario....that sht is alive and well,...and running rampant in the garage at my house.

The car starts....but only after you pedal it. It runs a little rough for 15-20 seconds, the the O2 sensor comes on and it settles. Let it run for 15 more seconds, and it starts to pick up RPM,...run a little more, more RPM...as the engine starts to warm, it just keeps running faster...within a minute, it's running 1500-1650.

But you gotta shut it off...there's sht dripping under the car.

The water pump came fitted with a pipe plug on both sides so you could orient the inlet tube on either side of the pump. The instructions stated that the other plug was loosely fitted, and was dry, w/o any sealant of any kind.

You of course forget that, and put the pump in place,...and fill the engine with anti-freeze. It takes actually running the engine to get a little heat in it before water starts to drip out of that loose fitting,...and it's dry, so tightening it doesn't stop the leak. ( doesn't matter,..you don't have an Allen wrench that big anyway) So,..you pull the damn plug,...antifreeze splashes everywhere,...the whole bottom of the engine, lines, hoses, steering rack, Kmember,...all dripping now. The Allen head plug is huge....you don't have a wrench that big....so you overcome,...you adapt, you improvise..

A 3/8" nut fits in that hole...you cut a 3/8" bolt off so that it threads tight against that nut,...and you put it in the Allen head socket in the plug, you goop the threads w/liquid Teflon, and literally bolt that pipe plug back in..Once tight,.the bolt /nut combo just drop out of the pipe plug.

Fixed.

That oil filter adapter that looked so scary is in fact leaking...oil is getting past the 1/2" pipe nipple that you had to buy to extend the oil return hose far enough down to get the lower radiator hose to fit..And tightening the thing doesn't make one damn bit of a difference.
It's gonna need something else.
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This was right after I bolted it all up,...pleased as punch that the lower radiator hose, just barely sneaks past everything else..
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And there that leaky btch is..again before starting it and the leak starts...it's coming out of the threaded portion where it screws into the aluminum adapter....I'm gonna fix it the way I fix everything that has the potential to leak...I'm not gonna use Teflon as a sealant this time,....I'm taking it back apart,..cleaning it all up,...and I'm gonna use JB Weld as a thread sealant..works Everytime.

But that's another day....Today you restart the car...water leak is gone..oil leak starts to ooze..you think...this has got to be a freakin vacuum leak,..maybe the diaphragm in the PB booster is leaking,...you pull the plug out of the booster, the engine runs even faster, you put your finger over the open fitting, and the engine slows,..but....while you hold it,............the engine picks up RPM.

When you first started the thing, and the O2 sensor came online,..the engine idled at 1000 RPM, and the AFR was like 13:1. But as it warms, the AFR goes leaner,..by the time the engine is running 1600 RPM it's reading 15:1...

Every single plug looks the same,...barely showing anything at all....the tail pipe is clean,..no smoke of any kind. While the engine is humming along, there's an occaisional miss....just a real quick "poom-poom,...poom- poom" while the engine rages along.

So then,.....What did I change since last October?

The ITBs never came off the head,..and the head never came off the block. Only the oil pan got removed, and the pan vent got added. Timing didn't get messed with, the Balancer, and crank position sensor never got touched.

I may have adjusted the ITB's throttle screws,..but I cannot remember if I did or if I didn't. Regardless, that doesn't explain why the engine keeps getting faster.

The ONLY thing I did this time around was.......I coated the hot side. It was all rattle can painted before.

Ya think that the hot side is now more efficient now, and the WUE curve is too aggressive now?
 
Does that engine have an IAC valve? I had a similar creeping up idle problem on a the 96 Vette LT1 engine. It's cammed up a bit but thats all. Anyway, the only way I could control the idle and get it down was to back the throttle blade nearly all the way closed then readjust the TPS. This basically cut off idle air supply through the blade and forced it all through the IAC. Im not sure why I had to do this but it worked.
 
Does that engine have an IAC valve? I had a similar creeping up idle problem on a the 96 Vette LT1 engine. It's cammed up a bit but thats all. Anyway, the only way I could control the idle and get it down was to back the throttle blade nearly all the way closed then readjust the TPS. This basically cut off idle air supply through the blade and forced it all through the IAC. Im not sure why I had to do this but it worked.
No...my engine uses an open/closed fast idle valve. It had the same thing last year. Even so, I'm disconnecting the thing to take it out of the equation...the engine still runs faster as it warms up.
Ultimately, I gotta stop the stinkin oil leak. I'm ordering a new oil filter adapter thing, and a couple of fittings so that I can rule that leak out. I'll order it today, it'll be here tomorrow.
 
Mike, I seem to remember the idle never really being that high on your engine... now lets assume something is more efficient or otherwise affecting the car, you idle with the timing to a set number, something to the order of 26* or some-such. If the engine picks up speed and moves into an area of the ignition map where the timing starts to rise, then the idle will "run away" with the timing.
I have a simple fix for this, these pictures will show you how to setup the 3 tables to enable timing to help control idle speed. Its also cold as EFF right now still and your air is much denser than it was when we tuned the car.
 

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Mike, I seem to remember the idle never really being that high on your engine... now lets assume something is more efficient or otherwise affecting the car, you idle with the timing to a set number, something to the order of 26* or some-such. If the engine picks up speed and moves into an area of the ignition map where the timing starts to rise, then the idle will "run away" with the timing.
I have a simple fix for this, these pictures will show you how to setup the 3 tables to enable timing to help control idle speed. Its also cold as EFF right now still and your air is much denser than it was when we tuned the car.
Yeah,....I see that..but it's not cold here..it was 70 when I started that thing. I think you're right though..I had the computer running, it was showing 31 degrees timing when I shut it off.
 
Well,.....I thought that I was gonna take the old filter adapter apart, and stick it back together using JB Weld.

Not today...

The thing is seized..it would destroy any chance of reusing it even if I could get it apart.
It’s all good though....that thing had been around the block a few times, and has been on more than one engine I’ve cobbled together. Truth be told....Its time to buy a new one.
I’ll have the new piece tomorrow.

Then after I get that,..I’ll have the exact same thing show up on tuesday.

When I ordered it, I ordered it online....

its so easy,....just like that Christmas song..."Buyin sht from summit, click-click-click....itll be at your house to-morrow, ricky-tick."

T¹Well, at least that's the way we always sang it when we were little.

Problem is,..sometimes it doesn't come from Atlanta...sometimes.....that sht comes from freakin O Hi O...and it don't come in time for Christmas when it comes from O Hi O.

So, this morning when I got the shipping confirmation letting me know that I wasnt on Santas "Nice" list ....and my stuff wasnt coming from 150 miles away,..it was coming instead from the North Pole.......AKA..Tallmadge Ohio, and it was gonna get to me the day after my day off.

So....I called them.

I asked them if there was any way I could add instructions expressly forbidding them to send me ANYTHING if it didn't come from Atlanta.

"Potentially..."

After talking with her, I find out that "Potentially" doesn't exist...I learn that the only way I'll ever be able to tell them where I want the stuff to ship from will be if I talk to them on the phone


The phone.

N.B.D......I Always knew that the only way I'll ever get stuff to come to me where I want it to come from requires that I SPEAK to a HUMAN....

And for tonight...that is the best outcome I can hope for.

Tomorrow, I'll get the adapter...ill have go go to HD to buy the seized piece again..( I'll have to sneak out again).The good thing is that I'll have a new piece to screw it into that hasn't welded itself into the adapter....

And....
 
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Hey I'm a 40 min drive for the tallmadge summit and they'll occationally ship me stuff from out west even though it's instock locally. I've just driven there the next day when i realized it wont be here till after when i need it. I call now if i know i'm gonna "need" it and dont wanna or have time to drive there, if i do i end up spending an hour going through there scratch and dent area. lots of good stuff in there i don't need but must buy lol
 
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I get home yesterday, and this was on the table in my living room ( I made that table BTW)

This was the "online order" that shipped out of Ohio. I didn't expect to get this till Tuesday. The mega irony is that they shipped it using the US mail service. Any other carrier that they use would've taken that long, but the one that I would've never considered got it to me in 2days from Tallmadge. The freakin USPS!! Sht's getting competitive.( I'll be sure to remember that if I ever have to get something from there again).

So I have a choice now.. Inside this box is the same adapter that I had before I seized the fitting into it. It's the same replacement adapter that is currently on the engine this instant.

The difference is that the piece that extends the oil hose fitting low enough to clear the lower radiator hose is one piece, as opposed to 3. And,..it's made of aluminum. So it'll actually mate up with the adapter better than the brass nipple that is screwed into the one on the engine.

In other news, the Gesthapo that runs the dealership decided against opening today,...so I'm actually NOT gonna have to risk getting fired for not going in, because I wasn't going in. I had started to feel sick towards the end of the day, but now I'm much better.

Again, it's Sunday...and the " Do I, or Don't I" get to go down there hasn't been considered yet. I always let her decide that for me by her actions. The Costco run was made last Sunday...So that doesn't need to happen..all I have to do is clean up about 25 pounds of mutant dog sht left by the mutant dog, and I should be a free man.
Steve sent me pictures of what I need to do control my runaway engine timing ( if that is what is actually happening). Problem is that they are.....pictures....I need,..words too.

I need to actually check, and confirm timing too considering that I intend to lean on the thing this year...really, really hard.

What do Australian headed, ITB inducted, Solid roller cammed banger engines make when they are forced to eat 14 pounds of atmosphere and fuel ya spose?
 
It's not megasquirt, but on my Holley I read a good idle timing article once. You can create a stable idle speed by manipulating the cells around your target idle. You can do this to both the fuel and ignition maps. I think at my target rpm, 800, my advance is 26. Iirc, because of the limited resolution of the C950, the next block is 1050. So at 1050, the advance drops to 22. So if the engine starts to creep up, the timing goes down which helps stabilize the idle. If the idle fell towards 650, the timing would bump up. It worked great to keep it from surging at idle.

I'm sure you'll get it sorted, but it took me a minute to wrap my head around how that worked.

Is the mutant dog :poo:ting 25lbs per day or week??

:shrug:
 
It's not megasquirt, but on my Holley I read a good idle timing article once. You can create a stable idle speed by manipulating the cells around your target idle. You can do this to both the fuel and ignition maps. I think at my target rpm, 800, my advance is 26. Iirc, because of the limited resolution of the C950, the next block is 1050. So at 1050, the advance drops to 22. So if the engine starts to creep up, the timing goes down which helps stabilize the idle. If the idle fell towards 650, the timing would bump up. It worked great to keep it from surging at idle.

I'm sure you'll get it sorted, but it took me a minute to wrap my head around how that worked.

Is the mutant dog :poo:ting 25lbs per day or week??

:shrug:
yup thats timing control 101..... but the megasquirt has a table called "idle advanced settings" that let you build that same idle timing loop your talking about without having to manipulate the timing table. It follows the CL idle curve for idle speed you set in the ECU, this is how i get big cam cars to idle like mild cam cars:)
 
Ok, ..gotta do this, and get the computer booted before I call obi wan to get verbal instructions to set a timing table...
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Purely from an aesthetic...I just can't put the Frank-n-filter on when there is a much prettier solution.
 
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