There is if I use LQ9 coil packs.Is there room for the coil packs underneath this?:
There is if I use LQ9 coil packs.Is there room for the coil packs underneath this?:
Take a look in the mirror, ask 'would you buy a BMW from this guy?'
Of course you would!
You have the look of an 'expert' BMW salesman.
There is if I use LQ9 coil packs.
I hope that you put some Loctite on the baffle mount bolts. It would make a disaster if one of then came loose...Well.....
Can you say Two Jay Zee?
save for modifying the cover, and doing away with the Toyota script,...mounting the LS coils, running plug wires, creating the necessary bracketry to run my ford alternator, and the Sanden Compressor that I currently have... The tooge is ready for install.
Clearly,...I gotta belt routing hurdle to jump.
I was at this early this morning..the most time consuming part being the cam covers...the baffles are riveted on from the factory. If you are even remotely concerned about the funk that is trapped between the baffles and the cover,.....you gotta drill those rivets out,..clean all that crud that’s underneath,...and screw then bitches back together.
I ain’t putting all of the bolts back in..the four corners are good enough in this application.
The Prius steering thing is turning out to be a pain in the ass...I can’t weld the shortened column together and still get it to fit. So,....I gotta come up with a two piece solution.
The sleeve is a “ coupler” of sorts.It allows me to slide the upper into the lower. I’ll weld studs onto the upper and lower, and strap the two sections together after it slides into the sleeve...On a fox mustang, the whole lower half of the dash is exposed. So having a column that is “ too long” won’t be a problem. If you have a Monsterdash on the other hand with a custom bent Chromemoly tube running the length between the driver side, and the passenger side......not so easy.
Kates gonna be traveling this week....means I’ll have evenings to work some more if I can stay away from the whiskey.
Thanks for the input Joe,...look closely, and you’ll see the red googe on a couple of those screws.I hope that you put some Loctite on the baffle mount bolts. It would make a disaster if one of then came loose...
I was not going to say anything about that. Did not want to encourage 'accessory drive V2.Nicely done Mike. Hopefully the alternator has enough belt wrap not to slip when the throttle is pressed. Only one way to find out though.
Well,....the steering is mounted.
The column is two pieces. It’s the only way I could get it to fit. The motor assembly is bolted to the 4 anchor points the factory uses to hold the column. It is where all the torque will get transferred from the motor to the steering rack. There is a short 1/4 column that is where all of the electronics are bolted to. I made two tabs that hold the upper shaft to the lower. Additionally, the upper slides into a sleeved coupler to keep it all aligned.
Im good with it.
The motor assembly is completely hidden, it’s way the phck up under the dash. On a factory fox, I’d be concerned that the factory fuse box might interfere with the install,...but you could just tilt the motor down to clear, or flip it over to the other side.
The steering shaft is complete.
What looks like a 200.00 LMR steering shaft is two universal set screw double d joints with a piece of double d shaft that I cut to fit. Total cost was about 100.00. I’m gonna add the rod end at the firewall to add support to that shaft.
Still left to determine is whether the column trim will fit again. It’s really close..I think it’ll work.
the coil packs were last thing, and the mount bracket still need reinforcement,...but Im good with the location.
so,..that’s it,...once that bracket is done, and I get a rod end to support the steering shaft, I’m gonna put the engine in.
It’s gonna work. The Ranger station vid shows the install in a falcon, and the guy is steering the car with a finger. All in all, the custom part of this install amounted to making the bracket to bolt the motor to that is welded to the factory front mount ( that I had to beat The remaining steering column out of ). Hole-sawing that hole larger so that the steering coupler would pass through. I had to remove all of the excess tube transitions, and bracketry off of the Prius unit, and shorten it, and the Ford column to come out to the same length. The internal intermediate shaft could’ve been done better if I had access to either a lathe or an end mill..( Like any of us would).Wow, great progress. It's like going to work when no one is there. I can get all kinds of stuff done without the phones ringing and people constantly coming in my office asking questions or needing help! I am really interested to see how the e-steering works once you get weight on it and do a trial run.