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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Nov 29, 1999
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I didn’t realize someone beat me too it . Either way . Welcome to super tax PLUS r&d .
No one else stepped up to the plate to make this happen . I have seen videos of the car driving it’s insane
Firstly...I ain't payin NOBODY 7k to build me an adapter for anything.

" Adapter" is my middle name.....I put an Australian roller cam in a US 250, that was ADAPTED to make a Aussie head fit.

Tomorrow I hope to have something that resembles an actual oil pan to allow a 2jz to fit in a fox...again....NOBODY makes this thing, despite the fact that a 2 Jz has been in just about every car except the Flint mobile..

leave it to me to make that happen.

It might take me 4-5 times to make it work ...but it won't cost nowhere near 7k....
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Firstly...I ain't payin NOBODY 7k to build me an adapter for anything.

" Adapter" is my middle name.....I put an Australian roller cam in a US 250, that was ADAPTED to make a Aussie head fit.

Tomorrow I hope to have something that resembles an actual oil pan to allow a 2jz to fit in a fox...again....NOBODY makes this thing, despite the fact that a 2 Jz has been in just about every car except the Flint mobile..

leave it to me to make that happen.

It might take me 4-5 times to make it work ...but it won't cost nowhere near 7k....
I definitely wasn’t implying to pay the 7k Supra tax more or less find the origin - who is probably quick time by the looks of it and see if they will sell to you separate .
 
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stanglx2002

CT Material here
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The think the 6R80 would be a great option for the Monster. That is what I believe is going in my red car with the new setup.

I will be watching either way as you build the adapter for the engine to transmission. I can't justify the money for the adapter either.

I don't have an a** tree to pull from...
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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The pan is nearing final welding stage. The plan is to cut/bend all of the pieces, and fit and TIG weld them together. Once the " pan" part of the thing is all welded together, I weld all of that to the pan rail that is bolted to the block using the mig.

I can TIG the 16 ga stuff pretty confidently..as long as it's not an " inside corner". For whatever reason I simply cannot do that ( yet). I've tried it several times now, and I'll just get the metal too damn hot. And excessive heat equals sheet metal distortion and warpage.
The pan rail is not only an inside corner, but also the merge point for two different metal thicknesses....just begging for me to make a flaming mess out of the whole thing if I tried to Tig that.

So........no says the finger. :nono:

But when we start talking about Mig welding....I am a Shaolin master of Mig welding..practiced in the style of the Dung fao technique ( by far the most deadly). When it comes to mig welding, my skills are so lethal, I could cut off your ear, and weld it back on your head before you even realized you were in pain.
Well...if your head was made out of steel that is....:shrug: And your ear....that would have to be steel too.:cautious:

I haven't mastered flesh welding ...I'm only at the "OWWW SON-OF-A-BITCH!!!" Level of flesh "burning"... Which I've gotten really good at. it's a slow process, and I have to practice on myself, which has taken years to master, but l just gotta say this...
Ain't nobody here better at burning the piss outta themselves than me.
As for the flesh welding part....not quite there...........yet. But I'm working on that too.

Anyway,....I digress.

Mig welding the pan rail to the pan will have the unfortunate side effect of heat related warpage. So if I have any hope of the thing ever fitting again I'll have to go slow, move around a lot, and keep the thing bolted to the block. The -16 weld bungs are on the side of the pan for the external pick up tube, as is the turbo oil return and drain plug fittings. ( those freakin -16 weld fittings are gi-gandor..and the hose ends and hose is just freakin huge..) I hope to hell that it doesn't interfere with me putting the engine where it needs to go when it comes time to fit that.

I hope to have the same oil capacity as these things have stock, which is around 5.5 Qts. I'll have to get me some more mineral spirits so I can fill the thing, and check it after its all welded. If it doesn't hold that, It's too freakin late now, the pan dimensions are set. About the only thing I could do to add capacity would be to tie the front mounted oil cooler back in to the engine so that I'd have those lines, and an external oil filter or two to add oil capacity.

I really hadn't planned to do that however, but I'll deal with that when/if I have to.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Well, for better or worse..I'm at the 80% done mark.
image.jpeg

Still to do is obvious...I have a buttload of welding to do.
I also have to get the sump welded and check it for capacity so that the dipstick can be added.

On the other side..I gotta spend more money.
image.jpeg

Probably gonna need a 120* version of one of them so that I can correct the mismatch. ( another 30 dollar fitting)

Once I get the welding done, and...if I manage to keep the bitch from warping all to hell, I'll add a couple of removeable baffles so that I can clean the pan should I even need to do that..I'm on the fence about going through the hassle of making those plates bolt in, as most of the pan mfg's just weld them in solid..ill have to see how I feel about that after I get it all finished.

Lastly, there's the little access area so that I can get to the converter bolts.
image.jpeg


I'm hoping that when I get to the trans adapting stage, that I'll be able to get enough of my fingers in there to start a bolt.
I had to build it that way because I need access to the two rear bolts to tighten/loosen them.

Now,...if you've looked at the factory rear sump pan, you'll see that mine is way back there comparitively..I hope that I've guessed right with regard to the amount of space I've given for the crank to swing by ( ample)..I want to be able to sit the engine low in the bay, but at the same time. just didn't want to get the parts that spin really fast too close to the parts that don't.
 
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Davedacarpainter

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Didn’t someone already mention brazing the pan Mike?

MUCH cooler temperatures and the pan isn’t structural. No warpy-warpy........:
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Too late....I've " fuse welded" a lot of the pan together.

There are pinholes everywhere.....this'll be like the last thing I welded with the TIG first....whatever creates the contamination can't be fixed by welding on top of it. The pinhole just keeps reappearing...

The oil pan that even though it only cost 75 bucks for materials, took 40 hours to build saga continues.....
 

jrichker

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Too late....I've " fuse welded" a lot of the pan together.

There are pinholes everywhere.....this'll be like the last thing I welded with the TIG first....whatever creates the contamination can't be fixed by welding on top of it. The pinhole just keeps reappearing...

The oil pan that even though it only cost 75 bucks for materials, took 40 hours to build saga continues.....
See http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=38727 for some help with your problem...

Ken_m » posted...

"The problem you are encountering is very common. The cause of this is when welding relatively "dirty" carbons steels (compared to alloys ) you need need cleaning agents in the weld. Hot rolled sheet is the worst

Because with TIG , the process itself does not really provide any cleaning, you must rely on the filler material to clean the weld

The most common cause for this is people using AWS R45 and AWS R60 carbon steel filler. This stuff is actually for oxy acetylene gas welding. You can't tell the diffrence at first glance when looking at it

The proper filler choice for unalloyed carbon steel ( mild steel ) is AWS ER70-S2 . The "S-2" filler is also refereed to as "triple deoxidized" because it has Ti, Al ,Zr . It also has Si and Mg which are common deoxidizers is MIG wires

A distant second choice is ER70-S-6 ( very common in MIG wire form ). This filler uses Si and Mg as primary deoxidizers

Quality filler will always be stamped / coined on both ends showing AWS Class

Lastly, if you are trying to do a pure fusion weld without filler on carbon steel, the only way to minimize the pinholes is to minimize the depth of penetration, which means go easy on the current. Don't be surprised if you can't get rid if the pinholes when doing pure fusion welds (without filler ) on carbon steels

You can get away with using the cheap oxy filler if you get lucky and the base material chemistry is relatively low in trace contaminants. Having said that, since you don't use much filler TIG welding there is no reason to be saving money by buying the less expensive filler

If you use only ER70S-2 you won't have any problems

Hope this helps"
 
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