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I have heard of the equalizing pressure thing from more than one source... If the big engine builders think there is something to it then who am I to argue?? In my mind it makes sense, doubly so after your pictures of the oil drain back holes. You could take the line up from the pan into the first T fitting into the second then over to the mouth of the turbo... sort of a damn if you do scenario there.

I dont want to see the ITB setup go away... I really like it alot, it was fun to tune as well and the regular old plenum just wont have the wow factor this does. Function AND form Mike, that is what you bring when you do something. I make :poo: work, but you make it work and look good. I bet people loved that glass lid box at the show. drive the thing and let it get crudy and when you really have to clean it then... Make it easy on yourself get one of those foam ball cleaner deals on a stick.

I am jealous of the MS3 upgrade BTW..... your going to have so much capability you wont know what to do with it.
 
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Mike, I know that I dont post much on your thread, but do watch it pretty intently. Reading on the latest theory of getting the excessive pressure out of the crankcase I have a question. I typically try to find the simplest way to do things (Don't judge the digital dash I'm building), and I do agree with the theory of adding a hose/vent in the oil pan to let out the pressure that builds up. This makes a lot of sense actually but....

My question is why would you want to plumb that into the valve cover?

Wouldn't it be easier, cleaner, and less problematic to just plumb the hose/vent from the oil pan to its own crankcase vent?

Then you wouldn't over whelm the vent in the valve cover, and allow it vent the gases that do make it to that area of the engine. While, you have a vent in the oil pan allowing those gases to escape on its own path. You already know that air will move in the path of least resistance, so it will want to go out the oil pan vent rather than up the oil drain holes.

Thoughts?
 
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Mike, I know that I dont post much on your thread, but do watch it pretty intently. Reading on the latest theory of getting the excessive pressure out of the crankcase I have a question. I typically try to find the simplest way to do things (Don't judge the digital dash I'm building), and I do agree with the theory of adding a hose/vent in the oil pan to let out the pressure that builds up. This makes a lot of sense actually but....

My question is why would you want to plumb that into the valve cover?

Wouldn't it be easier, cleaner, and less problematic to just plumb the hose/vent from the oil pan to its own crankcase vent?

Then you wouldn't over whelm the vent in the valve cover, and allow it vent the gases that do make it to that area of the engine. While, you have a vent in the oil pan allowing those gases to escape on its own path. You already know that air will move in the path of least resistance, so it will want to go out the oil pan vent rather than up the oil drain holes.

Thoughts?
That sir is a "Why didn't I think of that?"
That by far makes the most sense to me...
 
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This is very interesting. I'd have to question pressure variables. If you have low pressure at the valve cover... and higher pressure at the pan.... would it cause a suction affect on the oil in the pan ? Ofcourse, it would be plumbed obove the oil line but in high g situations ( braking, accelerating, turning ) would it cause oil to spit into the valve cover ? I wonder if any manufacturers do this ?

Try putting oil into a toyota without the oil filter loose or dip stick pulled. You'll appreciate an oil pan vent in that situation.

In theory, it makes complete sense.
 
Decided that I'm gonna use the distributor hole as my vent port from the pan. Instead of removing the pan and drilling and welding a fitting in it, ( and risk warping the sealing flange all to hell and back) I'll just remove the expando freeze plug that's currently in the hole, and make a disc out of steel that was the size of the old dist base that i can drill and tap for a -12 fitting.

I'll put one of the old hoses that used to run water to the rear radiators ( that are now laying on the floor) back into service as a vent hose and run it high up on the driver side apron, and cap that thing with a breather.

I'll take all that crap off of the valve covers, and put the grommets back on, and stuff a breather in one of them, and an oil filler cap in the other. The tapped plug in the middle will just have to be I guess.

Now all I gotta do is figure out how I can justify spending 300 bucks on the evac pump ( that has 10 seconds run time on it) and the oil water seperator that works...(until it gets plugged up) as more sht that I'll never use again that sits in a drawer in my garage.
 
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Now all I gotta do is figure out how I can justify spending 300 bucks on the evac pump ( that has 10 seconds run time on it) and the oil water seperator that works...(until it gets plugged up) as more sht that I'll never use again that sits in a drawer in my garage.

Put it all in a box that is labeled "Don't sell this :poo:, as soon as you do, you will have to buy it all over again."
 
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I strongly recommend no breather in the pan. To much windage. There is a reason that every engine vents from the valve cover. It does seem that you have a limited amount of crankcase to valve cover connection points that could be contributing to lack of drain back and more oil blowing out of your breather then you like. Fix that! If you continue on the path you are going you will have a more oily mess then you have now!
 
I strongly recommend no breather in the pan. To much windage. There is a reason that every engine vents from the valve cover. It does seem that you have a limited amount of crankcase to valve cover connection points that could be contributing to lack of drain back and more oil blowing out of your breather then you like. Fix that! If you continue on the path you are going you will have a more oily mess then you have now!
I'm not gonna put a hole in the pan. I'm going to use the old distributor shaft hole.
Direct path to the crankcase. above the rotation, and shielded from direct exposure from the crank throws.
 
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The last time I had this much stuff to do to the Monster, he didn't run.

From what I've read about tail shaft leaks, the bushing and the u joint are the culprits. I don't think I replaced the tail shaft bushing when I rebuilt the thing ( I didn't think it was a big deal). The front u-joint has a sticking point when you try to move it through its range of movement, so that's gonna get replaced because of that. there's enough movement on the slip yoke, and coupled to the wired u joint sticking thing, that's enough to suspect that fitment as causing that big assed leak. I'm taking the front pump, and the tail shaft to a trans place in hopes that I can get them to replace things, because they have the bushing install tools that I don't.

At the same time, I'm dropping off my hot side at the coaters to have it done.

When I get back home, I'm gonna pull the plug out of the distributor, and create the vent tube for the crankcase vent.

And lastly,...( if I feel like it) I'm gonna put the engine and trans back together, and think about what's required to stick that btch back in there.

That will still leave the seats to swap, and the ecu to upgrade. The headers and hot side to reinstall, a firmware upgrade to configure for the new ecu, and hope that nothing has changed when it comes time to restart it.
 
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You may already know this but I found it helpful to jack the back of the car up as far as I can when installing engine/trans together, of course I don't have the fancy body work in front but the gt front end limits how high I can go so I set the front tires on some wood to get me that little extra space.
i also have a 'dump truck' that provides a safe lifting apparatus.
 
Well I guess this day was as good as I could expect.

As part of my plan, I set out with several exhaust parts, and my tail shaft this morning to get them checked off my list. Before I left, I wanted to see how hard it was gonna be to get that U-joint out of the drive shaft.

I removed the spring clips, found a socket to use as a driver, found a bigger socket to act as a receiver, and gave the thing a whack.

It didn't move.

I got a bigger hammer and did the same, only this time, it was moving. After pounding on it for 30 seconds, I got the thing to move about 3/8" before the body of the u joint hit the yoke.

Now what am I sposed to do?

I decided to say "f that" and turned the shaft over and started beating it back together..it was somewhere between there and where it ended up that I realized that I had managed to free up the sticking u joint by whacking it. I believe that it was jammed a little too far to one side and was binding up slightly, causing it to stick.

So,..the day started off costing me nothing, while at the same time fixing something.

After that I got in the car, and went to AAMCO. Told the guy that works there that I needed a bushing installed and asked if he could do it for me. He said that he could, and that it might take a couple of minutes. I tell the guy no problem, and that I need to go across to the bank to get some money so I can pay him,......
He says it ain't gonna cost me nothin' and not to worry about it..
Excellent.

I get the part back, thank the guy, and move on to the powder coater.

I get to the powder coater and show him what I need ceramic coated. This is the same guy that coated my headers earlier this year.

I have the merge pipe, the turbine housing, the down pipe, the headers, and the charge tube that needs done. The headers have been hurt by wrapping a couple of tubes, and where they made contact with a wrapped tube, have turned orange. They needed to be redone.

Last year the guy charged me 270.00 to do the headers. This time he's charging me 270.00 again,.........to do everything.

Again,..it seems like free to me.

I leave the stuff with dude. I'll have it in a couple of weeks.
IMAG0185_zpsaw6dxrbw.jpg



I get back home,...I gotta deal with the crankcase vent. The voice inside my head says,..." You got the engine out,.....you may as well pull that pan to see what kinda funk is in there..at the very least, it'll be piece of mind"

So I remove the pan to find.........nothing. The pan is clean.

It did serve to give me piece of mind,...it also did two other things.
#1. Now that I could see firsthand, I came to realize that the distributor hole would be a disaster as a choice to vent the crankcase......Why do ya spose?
IMAG0187_zpspbpmfavp.jpg

The disc you can barely see is the bottom of the expando -freeze plug. Removing that thing would have exposed the future vent hose fitting to an oily distributor cam gear centrifically
flinging oil directly out of that hole.

No! said the Monkey fightin' Finger.

#2. So,..despite Hot Foxes advice,..the pan got the fitting instead.
IMAG0189_zpsnnji7ibg.jpg

It's a 90. Pointed down, and between crank throws lined up the the #3 main. It's high enough to be out of the oil, and on the down side rotation of the crank. Any oil that makes it up that tube will gravity drain right back into the pan. Hopefully this works.

I cleaned up the throttle bodies, and recalibrated them...Each throttle body has to be loosened, and the shaft has to be held in the closed position. Then one at a time, each tb has to be rotated closed, and set. Then one tb is opened with its set screw, and each tb is opened one at a time until all slack is removed between them.

Mine are all really close now.

I removed one seat, and was able to get one bracket completely built and painted

IMAG0191_zpskruoutkw.jpg


I used the old pro car seat adjuster sliders, and was able to make it fit beautifully. The adjuster lever had to be cut, bent, and welded to pas by the front seat bolt.mthe pic makes that look all bent to hell, but it's an opto-illusion....it's perfect.

The valve cover is back to vent mode...I got rid of those aluminum discs, and was able to bandage up the holes with sealed rivets..I should be good.
 
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As a footnote to last nights update,....
I always thought I could hear a small exhaust leak over all of the racket the engine makes. I could also smell it. I just couldn't see the tell tale exhaust soot on the head anywhere.

That is until I removed the headers.
IMAG0190_zpslmkjdzbx.jpg

The stupid pic is upside down, but you get it....that'd be #4 between the header and this spacer plate. Just barely getting by. I'll be giving this plate some sanding block treatment before it goes back in place.

When my rewards card funds, and the additional 500.00 pops in there, I'm gonna buy the hood. And that will prompt the additional paint work that I'm planning on undertaking..
After I decide what I want to do with the thing scoop wise.
A. Just blister the hood where the turbo sits and install the two rear vents that I'll take from the existing hood.( I'll move the vents on all of the choices) Basically, it'll be a flat hood.
B. 67 Mercury Cyclone scoops like I was trying to make work on the steel hoods.
mdmp_0907_01_z+67_mercury_comet_cyclone_gt+front_view.jpg

C. 65 Mercury Cyclone B/FX snorkels.
maxresdefault.jpg

May be too " in yo face" for my liking.
C. I order the thing with the used up rear cowl already on it.
Naaah ,....I looked at it...that ain't happening.
 
So what am I seeing there in the picture the is the sump on the back or the front. I still am fearfull that this is to much splash, now if you tie it into the valve cover then connect your breather up top. Have you ever cranked a engine over with the starter and watched how fast the crank turns at 150-200rpm? Oil is splashing and blowing around so fast and hard it will be hard to separate oil from blowby at that point.
 
So what am I seeing there in the picture the is the sump on the back or the front. I still am fearfull that this is to much splash, now if you tie it into the valve cover then connect your breather up top. Have you ever cranked a engine over with the starter and watched how fast the crank turns at 150-200rpm? Oil is splashing and blowing around so fast and hard it will be hard to separate oil from blowby at that point.
I agree with your concern over oil making it out of that tube, and routing it to the valve cover may make the most sense. I am concerned that for whatever reason oil managed to blow out before, it will continue to do so if I do that. ( whether it was blow by, rocker arm splash, a poorly vented catch can system, or what the fck ever)
Now that the pan is off, I can see that there is a substantial hole (3/4") for drain back in addition to the few tiny little holes that I posted a pic of earlier.. Putting a direct path pressure hose into that valve cover should allow breathers to eliminate the pressure while giving whatever oil remains in that line a path to drain back into the pan. All I know is that I'm done with trying to figure a way to keep oil in the engine after I put my foot in the pedal.
 
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Well fck me all to hell..

I got home tonight, and bolted that bracket to the Corbeau, and put the thing in the Monster.........



It's like I'm Granny Clampett, sitting up in the high rocker.
b472f7e0.jpg

That'd be me sitting next to EllieMae....hulling pole beans....
I probably sit 1, maybe 2" higher than the Scat seats that were in there...I'm gonna have to modify the car to make these seats fit....as in cutting and welding the front seat mount...
 
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It don’t look like it when you look at these two pics, but trust me when I tell ya, that corbeau is way higher than the scat seat.
It didn’t make no sense..
IMAG0196.jpg

So I took it back out and removed the bracket and sat both seats side by side....they even looked about the same ride height.......

Until you set in the scat,...then moved your butt over to the corbeau.

It’s the difference between foam densities...one offers no support, and is mama bear soft. the other is papa bear hard, and barely gives.

I need to fix that by creating a “ just right” baby bear ride height.

The good thing here ( for me at least) is that the bracket is modifiable. I went home at lunch and cut the front mount tabs off of the bracket, and lowered the front till I couldn’t go any lower because of the seat slider adjustment lever stopping it. I’ll get another inch of front drop at least, and if I do something with that adjuster bar,...I’ll be able to put the seat on the floor.
 
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