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Noobz347

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The last roytota engine that I had any love for was the 22R and 22RE. Waaaaaaaaaaaay back in the day when I was a young Airman...

--[flashback noises]: "Bee-duh-Doo Bee-duh-Doo Bee-duh-Doo"--
633364

Charlton Heston Narrates--

I had a Celica lift-back that I had put a dual Mikuni carb setup on. It came from a little known company called, "LC Engineering".

They got me. I sent them even moar monies :rlaugh: Lemme tell ya: In 1990 it was a [big] deal to get 315ish FWHP out of something like a Celica. It was more than sufficient to provide holy hell to any existing (at the time) 5-oh except those very rare cases with superchargers installed or equivalent mods.

Those rare instances where you just sat there watching that badass MF Mustang just wax ur chit knowing what you've got in your 22R and also knowing that no way was it ever going to pull [that] hard. :nonono: evar

I [will] have one. Oh yessss... Someday, I will have one. :cautious:


Fast forward another couple years until I got my 86 and dumped cash into it until... to be cont' :O_o:
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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It was a " what happened to everybody" thread..I was just curious to see where he landed, given that he had packed all of his stuff, and flew out the door.

And add to that...this:



Now I know I make a lot of bull sht claims, but when did I ever say that I “popped insane wheelies on a 315 street tire?”
What a cry baby. Since when is an e303 a radical cam ? I don’t get what comparing your solid roller to one is unless he is trying to down play your whole build . Oh well it’s obvious he’s hung up in the Stone Age big time instead of being as open to learning as he is teaching
 

74stang2togo

NERD!
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The last roytota engine that I had any love for was the 22R and 22RE. Waaaaaaaaaaaay back in the day when I was a young Airman...

--[flashback noises]: "Bee-duh-Doo Bee-duh-Doo Bee-duh-Doo"--
1565880325994.png

Charlton Heston Narrates--

I had a Celica lift-back that I had put a dual Mikuni carb setup on. It came from a little known company called, "LC Engineering".

They got me. I sent them even moar monies :rlaugh: Lemme tell ya: In 1990 it was a [big] deal to get 315ish FWHP out of something like a Celica. It was more than sufficient to provide holy hell to any existing (at the time) 5-oh except those very rare cases with superchargers installed or equivalent mods.

Those rare instances where you just sat there watching that badass MF Mustang just wax ur chit knowing what you've got in your 22R and also knowing that no way was it ever going to pull [that] hard. :nonono: evar

I [will] have one. Oh yessss... Someday, I will have one. :cautious:


Fast forward another couple years until I got my 86 and dumped cash into it until... to be cont' :O_o:
22Rs have a cult following for a reason, damned good engines.
 

droopie85gt

Hookers and Beer for life!
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The same holds true for the top Classes in the NHRA...can anybody even tell what brand those funny "cars" are supposed to be? PRO STOCK ( again, barely recognizable) Stopped using engines that the Big 3 make years ago..

Why the hell would I lose one minutes worth of sleep fretting over instead of saying I have this Maverick engine brought back from the dead, and held together with luck, and JB weld, or a 2jz out of a Lexus?

That is a purely rhetorical question...I wont.
Pro-Stock doesn't even run a full schedule any more. Don't have enough entries. It's too damn expensive to enter and watch the same 3 or 4 teams win every week because they have real sponsors with deep pockets. I know your deep rooted hatred of bracket racing, but it's the only way the average joe can race anymore. If you go heads up racing on a 9-5 budget, you're pissin in the wind.

I think Dean's a cool dude. A little zealous in his Toyota hatred. However, if Ole Miss made an engine, I would feel the EXACT same way.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Icant wait to show you guys this latest crazy assed looking menagerie I have been building to distribute water to the outside of the engine under the header. The old plan of using rubber hoses to do that (even braided) was/is only a matter of time before I strand myself with an all but unfixable breakdown on the side of the road.
20190811_123746_zpswviapte1.jpg

So,....I build it out of steel. The problem with doing that is the tightness of the radius required to turn the lines into each inlet to keep it as close to the block as possible. So,..that forces me to give up doing it in round tube, and use square tube instead. (ever tried to get square tubing to twist and tilt to accommodate the different angles that it has to take to run along the rises and valleys?....) Let's just say that this freakin thing will be right at home with the puke troll in the looks department...good thing it'll be painted high heat black, and be under the header.
Ugly mutherphcker:nonono: is built out of 1" square tubing, cut into a bagillion chinkies, angles, plates, and various WTF's. It's just a giant jug phck.
I spent all day yesterday building this new eyesore....(and I had such high hopes for it) I'm actually fairly capable using the tig to do it, excepting all of the occasional pin holes that would show up. Seemed like everytime I stopped welding,..a little freakin pinhole would form. And it didn't matter what I did,..that piece of sht kept right on coming back.....I must've spent hours chasing pinholes.


That brings me around to today at 4:47 AM....I wake up to pee, and end up rebuilding the thing (in my head). I decided,...(right before falling back to sleep at 6) that I was gonna try and make it all out of -10 rigid hard line aluminum. When I get up, I go down there and check that hair-brained scheme for plausibility....
PROFILE_IMAGE7720883642035339501_zpsp5efg77t.jpg


It's pure 100% Hair brained......No freakin way.

So,..that puts me back to finishing the fugly steel dog leg the next time I go back down there.

The one good thing this will allow me to do is get rid of the 1/4" thick plate that I had to add to the rear header. And that will allow the hot side to fit together better.
The other concern is the oil/water that is showing up in the downpipe......not at the front part that comes immediately out of the turbo, that is all coloring chocolate brown just as you'd expect,...but further downstream it turns to oily black soot
The exhaust primaries are clean, the charge tube is clean,..there was a small spot of wet oil sitting at the bottom of the turbine outlet..I must have a bearing seal that is leaking ( just what you'd expect from an oil pump that's probably showing 100 p.s.I. of oil pressure to that turbo inlet) It's restricted,...but it is a 280.00 chinee turbo.. might just be that I start collecting these things.
PROFILE_IMAGE1020836518432607378_zpsghs6slt8.jpg

The scruff is evident..time to see the barber of seville
 
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CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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You certainly have lost your fear of the camera. Does this mean you have turned in your box head id card?
Cmon dude!
How long do you guys have to know me, before you know it's not being in front of the camera that's the problem.....
It's being in front of the camera when I'm not in control of it........that's the problem.

I can look like an ass hat in a still photo, and as long as it serves my point..I'm using it.
Saw this on Facebook
That's where it'll stay..
As good as a Barra is,..8potentially better than a 2jz,... It's unobtanium. Twice the price, equally as challenging to fit ( even more so, given the extra 1 liter of displacement) the fact that the 2j is cheaper, running,with full accessories and gonna be shipped to my door for half of the Barra investment begs to question.......

What am I.......stupid?
 

KZGUNS

I can swing up to 11”
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well Ya it would be a huge investment. Honestly I like the direction you’re going but cost aside the Barra is pretty cool and unique at least stateside, come to think of it The 2jz in your car is just as unique.
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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Spent the morning looking at 2jz’s

Compared to a Barra, it just makes way more sense.

The engine is reputed to be able to withstand 750 hp w/o me even removing the oil pan, and only requires that I swap out the cams and springs ( available in the US from Crower) also w/o removing the head to do so.
The stainless steel exhaust header is available on eBay for 4 hundred bucks, The intake looks to be around 500.
I’d probably upsize the injectors to whatever the domestic equivalent of 1000cc is, and I can bump my pump up to 340lph if I need to as well..currently rated to 220 I think.
The only thing(s) standing in my way from making this purchase are:
The front sump pan...can I buy a rear sump pan, and will that solve the fitment or will I have to adapt/ modify it.
The trans...I can buy the engine from several shippers between 2799 -3199 with a trans attached. Is that trans capable of withstanding the power output of say...500 whp? Conversely, I can also buy the thing engine only.
If I have to adapt,..I’d probably just buy a 1/2” thick plate and adapt the 2jz bell to my 4r70.
[email protected] can chime in?

The Barra requires a much more substantial upfront investment, and nothing is available in the US for it....Everything has to come from Australia. It’s significantly longer..I’d like to be able to solve the cooling issues by putting a real cooling fan with a shroud on the radiator,...it’d be nice if the engine wasn’t jammed in from front to back for a change.

I’ve got to find a better venue to sell the Jag as well...Autotrader hasn’t netted a single sniff in a week, and I’m priced in the mix properly..maybe eBay?
 

TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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To use your 4r70 in my mind the way that would work is this . You get the adapter plate and flexplate to run a th400 . You get a JW bell to adapt a aod/4r70 to a Chevy . Converter for ford to Chevy and I can’t see why it wouldn’t bolt up to 2j just like a th400 does

Or you could try like you said and make a plate to adapt the a340 bell but then what happens as far as getting the converter to work as far as spacing the snout .

The fool proof way to me would be like I said all the adapters to mate a 400 to the 2j and then all the stuff to mate the ford to a Chevy motor being the adapter is a Chevy pattern and you’d be good to go
 

CarMichael Angelo

Nobody appreciates me..I'm gonna cut my ear off
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To use your 4r70 in my mind the way that would work is this . You get the adapter plate and flexplate to run a th400 . You get a JW bell to adapt a aod/4r70 to a Chevy . Converter for ford to Chevy and I can’t see why it wouldn’t bolt up to 2j just like a th400 does

Or you could try like you said and make a plate to adapt the a340 bell but then what happens as far as getting the converter to work as far as spacing the snout .

The fool proof way to me would be like I said all the adapters to mate a 400 to the 2j and then all the stuff to mate the ford to a Chevy motor being the adapter is a Chevy pattern and you’d be good to go
No no no...that’s crazy talk.

I’m saying I make:
1. A 1/2” plate bolted to the back of the 2j with the SBF bell pattern drilled and tapped, with the appropriate dowel pins pressed into the plate for both patterns to locate off of.
2. A spacer bolted onto the crank with a machined shoulder to locate it properly on the nose going into the 2 j crank, and the appropriate pilot hole drilled into the tail for the converter snout to ride in.
Depending on the bolt pattern of my flex plate versus the pattern of the 2j crank, holes may have to be welded shut and red re-drilled to make it fit. That will put the current 4r70 flexplate where it’s sposed to be in relation to the converter, and allow me to bolt up my current starter.

Easy, Peasy, the monster’s going japanesey

Who else here can tell me if that has some sort of hidden flaw that I’m not seeing?
 

a91what

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No no no...that’s crazy talk.

I’m saying I make:
1. A 1/2” plate bolted to the back of the 2j with the SBF bell pattern drilled and tapped, with the appropriate dowel pins pressed into the plate for both patterns to locate off of.
2. A spacer bolted onto the crank with a machined shoulder to locate it properly on the nose going into the 2 j crank, and the appropriate pilot hole drilled into the tail for the converter snout to ride in.
Depending on the bolt pattern of my flex plate versus the pattern of the 2j crank, holes may have to be welded shut and red re-drilled to make it fit. That will put the current 4r70 flexplate where it’s sposed to be in relation to the converter, and allow me to bolt up my current starter.

Easy, Peasy, the monster’s going japanesey

Who else here can tell me if that has some sort of hidden flaw that I’m not seeing?
You will need more boost......

..


oh wait thats not a flaw
:think:
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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No no no...that’s crazy talk.

I’m saying I make:
1. A 1/2” plate bolted to the back of the 2j with the SBF bell pattern drilled and tapped, with the appropriate dowel pins pressed into the plate for both patterns to locate off of.
2. A spacer bolted onto the crank with a machined shoulder to locate it properly on the nose going into the 2 j crank, and the appropriate pilot hole drilled into the tail for the converter snout to ride in.
Depending on the bolt pattern of my flex plate versus the pattern of the 2j crank, holes may have to be welded shut and red re-drilled to make it fit. That will put the current 4r70 flexplate where it’s sposed to be in relation to the converter, and allow me to bolt up my current starter.

Easy, Peasy, the monster’s going japanesey

Who else here can tell me if that has some sort of hidden flaw that I’m not seeing?
Should work fine I’d think