Not a cyclone brand, but a Gila Monster, duh. And I too agree that the aged look is the way to go.
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Water jet would be the best answer for the brand head, but I tried a couple of black and white images of a Gila and it is hard to get the color pattern to come out in a brand. Besides gaping the contact area (where color is) it would take an overly large brand to get it so it does not look like a salamander. I did try the skull, pretty interesting looking and could be done in about a 4 to 6 inch cut.
The door panels will be a combination of the tan leather (now "aged", evidently), and a raised pod where the big-assed 7" component woofer will live in that will probably be black.
Between here, and FEP the aged effect was overwhelmingly picked over the natural finish. If I do "brand" the doors, it will be in a Cyclone font. The car will be officially called a Cyclone, and I have already paid for the fender decals that have the angry tornado that used to be my sig. The GM is just a nickname, and I'll definitely keep some reference to that somewhere on the car (will probably have a personalized plate like GLAMNSTR)
As far as the decision to use the aged look over the natural finish, I see it this way:
The natural finish would've been the way I went had the leather been high dollar and perfect. Since the stuff I have is far from that (low buck, and distressed) the antiqued effect carries. Ironically, had it been perfect I would be going after the "Ferrarri" vibe. Now it looks more like what you'd expect from some old Rolls Royce, but the bars offset that and balance it out.
Gila skull branded on the door skins = WINNING
Also, I think you have me convinced on the PVC water trap idea, however I'll wrap mine in white duct tape to protect from explosions...
My air tools spit out a lot of water, so its needed for sure.
Also, I think you have me convinced on the PVC water trap idea, however I'll wrap mine in white duct tape to protect from explosions...
My air tools spit out a lot of water, so its needed for sure.
You're 61.00 away from a solution to that. Again, if you're worried about PVC coming apart, then maybe you might wanna rethink using it. (I mean I'd be willing to wager that if there was an event violent enough to cause a come apart, duct tape ain't gonna stop it.)Gila skull branded on the door skins = WINNING
Also, I think you have me convinced on the PVC water trap idea, however I'll wrap mine in white duct tape to protect from explosions...
All my friends use it in their shops, and nobody has of yet had to go to the hospital to have a PVCndectomy or anything, so just do it and stop being a wuss.
Yea, uh, it's not going. Probably won't be going for quite a while. I may do it during a series of work lunch breaks. I have dual widescreen 19" monitors there. I agree that it will be an unpleasant task.
I get the call today from the trim shop that had Winkin & Blinkin telling me that they were done. When I got home I went straight there and picked them up. After giving both of them the same aging process that the rest of the dash now had, I fill them with the stuff that I've had stashed in boxes for almost two years now.
First lets talk about Winkin.
Not real happy about this.
I bought the Summit digital gauge panel first. That thing only cost 250.00 and includes a fuel level, oil press, temp, volts, tach, speedo, R&L TS indicators, and a high beam indicator. It comes with all the senders, and it was just too good a deal to pass up. Next I bought the Innovate LC-1 wideband. The thing only had a black bezel, which at the time seemed like NBD, as I wanted all the dash gauges trimmed in black. The last thing I bought was a Cyberyne digital boost ga. Not alot of digital boost gauges as far as selection goes that have red displays, and I chose that one for that reason. The Summit trim bezel is chrome, the Cyberdyne ga, comes with both, and the Innovate only comes in black. Since they didn't match, I decided to tone down the two out side gauges, by keeping them black, and highlight the digital long gauge and use the chrome bezel instead.
All of this is me trying to justify the fact that the gauges don't match. Since this is just a mock up, nothing is permanent. If I change anything it will probably be the Innovate gauge. I'll try to find a Cyberdyne AFR ga that'll work w/ the wideband. Then I'll use the chrome bezels across the board. Gotta say I'm not real warm and fuzzy about the looks, but since all this junk is new they're what's gonna get used.
As for Blinkin, no real drama, except I expected the head unit to be silver. Instead, I got a black one. Again, doesn't match the Vintage Air HVAC control (which probably came in black)
One thing worth pointing out is that this head unit has no CD player. it is 100% for streaming, bluetooth, or flash drive stored media. Just the thing for somebody like me w/ a smart phone, and a Bagillion songs on Spotify. The fact that it doesn't have an internal CD makes for a very light, very short chassis.
So I got this stuff, and it's not a real big deal to run a couple of screws to stick it in place. Let's say this is the 80% money shot.
But, with the good comes the bad. I thought that I had solved the view angle issue by lowering the gauge pod, but clearly I didn't.
It doesn't matter whether I lower the column, or raise it, the fact that the gauge pod itself is so long, the steering wheel blocks the outside gauges (probably gonna be the gas gauge on one side, and volts on the other Tach and speedo are in the center.
I don't know what to do to solve that. Only thing that comes to mind is rebuilding Winkin, and recessing him way into the dash, cause the only way the view angle is gonna allow the full view of that cluster is if it's a mile in front of me.
(personally, I think I like it the way it is)
The fit is pretty decent though, and looking down through the windshield ( If there was a windshield) it looks pretty good too.
So, it'll all come back off tomorrow. I've started wiring the thing, and that'll be the task at hand until I get to the part where I turn the key. in about a month.
First lets talk about Winkin.
Not real happy about this.
I bought the Summit digital gauge panel first. That thing only cost 250.00 and includes a fuel level, oil press, temp, volts, tach, speedo, R&L TS indicators, and a high beam indicator. It comes with all the senders, and it was just too good a deal to pass up. Next I bought the Innovate LC-1 wideband. The thing only had a black bezel, which at the time seemed like NBD, as I wanted all the dash gauges trimmed in black. The last thing I bought was a Cyberyne digital boost ga. Not alot of digital boost gauges as far as selection goes that have red displays, and I chose that one for that reason. The Summit trim bezel is chrome, the Cyberdyne ga, comes with both, and the Innovate only comes in black. Since they didn't match, I decided to tone down the two out side gauges, by keeping them black, and highlight the digital long gauge and use the chrome bezel instead.
All of this is me trying to justify the fact that the gauges don't match. Since this is just a mock up, nothing is permanent. If I change anything it will probably be the Innovate gauge. I'll try to find a Cyberdyne AFR ga that'll work w/ the wideband. Then I'll use the chrome bezels across the board. Gotta say I'm not real warm and fuzzy about the looks, but since all this junk is new they're what's gonna get used.
As for Blinkin, no real drama, except I expected the head unit to be silver. Instead, I got a black one. Again, doesn't match the Vintage Air HVAC control (which probably came in black)
One thing worth pointing out is that this head unit has no CD player. it is 100% for streaming, bluetooth, or flash drive stored media. Just the thing for somebody like me w/ a smart phone, and a Bagillion songs on Spotify. The fact that it doesn't have an internal CD makes for a very light, very short chassis.
So I got this stuff, and it's not a real big deal to run a couple of screws to stick it in place. Let's say this is the 80% money shot.
But, with the good comes the bad. I thought that I had solved the view angle issue by lowering the gauge pod, but clearly I didn't.
It doesn't matter whether I lower the column, or raise it, the fact that the gauge pod itself is so long, the steering wheel blocks the outside gauges (probably gonna be the gas gauge on one side, and volts on the other Tach and speedo are in the center.
I don't know what to do to solve that. Only thing that comes to mind is rebuilding Winkin, and recessing him way into the dash, cause the only way the view angle is gonna allow the full view of that cluster is if it's a mile in front of me.
(personally, I think I like it the way it is)
The fit is pretty decent though, and looking down through the windshield ( If there was a windshield) it looks pretty good too.
So, it'll all come back off tomorrow. I've started wiring the thing, and that'll be the task at hand until I get to the part where I turn the key. in about a month.
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I vote to keep the gauge pod where it is. Man that dash looks Great, I bet that steering wheel would look awesome wrapped with the aged leather...
Lol
Lol
stangboy
Founding Member
Comin along nicely Mike! I really like the aged leather look.
A little change of topic, but I saw this article and thought about you. You may have seen it.
1971 Ford Maverick - Budget 10-Second Turbocharged Maverick Coupe - Car Craft Magazine
A little change of topic, but I saw this article and thought about you. You may have seen it.
1971 Ford Maverick - Budget 10-Second Turbocharged Maverick Coupe - Car Craft Magazine
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the comments.
I looked online, and I think I've found a boost gauge that will more closely match the Innovate ga. If after that, there is still too much difference, I'll sell the Innovate kit, and buy the AFR wideband ga. from the same company as the boost ga. and be done. Either way, that trim ring around the main gauge pod is going black.
I looked online, and I think I've found a boost gauge that will more closely match the Innovate ga. If after that, there is still too much difference, I'll sell the Innovate kit, and buy the AFR wideband ga. from the same company as the boost ga. and be done. Either way, that trim ring around the main gauge pod is going black.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Hey Mike I've got an innovate gauge and an autometer cobalt boost ga next to it, the blues go well together. I'll get a pic after work.
I really like the stained leather look, when you were first talking about building the dash I was some what of a skeptic. With that being said, the dash looks amazing! It suites the car perfectly and is a work of art. I would agree with you on leaving Winkin in the current location as it is very astetically pleasing to the eyes especially in the "stained" finish. Can't wait to see how the rest of the interior turns out!
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Here ya go, Mike. Forgive me, my camera sucks, but you can get the idea. I'm gonna pull the boost gauge back out and black out the bezel..
- Dec 19, 2010
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What?......That dash?....Aww it's just a little somethin' I threw together over the weekend.
Thanks Allen (Alan?)
There is a moral to my story, see below.I can always tell who does, and does not like what I propose by the "If you can't say something nice, don't say nothing" rule of internet replies. Up to the last, I myself didn't know if I was gonna be able to pull it off. Funny how junk seems to work that way for me.
I spent this morning sending Summit stuff back.
Since I'm not moving the dash, and I cant move the seat into the back seat, the only other option to increase the view angle was to increase the diameter of the steering wheel. The wheel that I put on the thing was advertised at 13.5" in diameter, and the rim itself had to be an inch thick.
I pulled that POJ off the car this morning, and despite the fact that the box had long been thrown away called Summit for exchange credit (Which they happily offered)
The new wheel is advertised at 15". Now while that may seem all 1950's and chit, the stock wheel on the Ranger measures 15.5, so I got no problems increasing the diameter up 1.5".
I did manage to spend the most on a steering wheel I ever have. It's no MoMo, LeCarra, Billet Specialties, or Flaming River, It's just a Lowly ol' Grant. But it still cost 278.00 before the horn button, and steering wheel hub.
Somebody said that it would be cool if I could antique a leather wheel to match the dash, and while I agree, I don't think that would last simply because you are holding the damn thing every minute you're driving.
So I think I got the next best thing:
It's real mahogany. The rivets on the spokes, and the red/black wood grain should compliment the dash, and it'll never change it's appearance as a result of using it. So I'm feeling good about it. Mine won't have that dorky black knob in the middle, as I don't need a horn button (Fairmonts have a combo horn button T/S lever) My center will just be a cap w/ a blue oval in the middle.
The boost gauge also came out of Winkin and went back. I found a gauge from some online (probably Chinese) reseller that offers a gauge that looks real close to the Innovate. I bought that dude this morning as I was sending all of the rest of the stuff back.
This is what that thing looks like:
When it's off it's all black. It's real close to the way the Innovate looks. If it still clashes, then I'll sell the damn Innovate, and buy a wideband kit from these guys, and the mismatch will be done.
Right now, I'm crawlin around wiring the thing. So I got a minute before I need any of the stuff I sent back.
First of all, I was gonna suggest the black center trim ring, but read that you already decided that. Simple and uniform. Secondly, I was going to suggest a thinner wooden wheel to help you view problem, but you beat me to that great idea as well. All in all, its coming out really well Mike. One more suggestion, but not one I think is a must by any means. If you wanted your radio and AC to match better since they are side by side, what about painting the trim bezel around the radio silver, or maybe using some model paint and a brush on the AC plate to make it all black without spraying over the lettering? Just some ideas, but I dont think it looks bad the way it is by any means.
Today was my reality check day. One of those days that's there to remind me that I am nothing special. No Artiste, No great fabricator, just some guy w/ dirty hands busting my nuts in the garage trying to work on a stupid car,....and sucking ass while doing it.
I started today researching, (or trying to research) the proper way to wire the menagerie that is my engine, and the little black boxes that were once a bunch of doo-dads in baggies, that are now supposed to control it.
Let me just say this about Megasquirt.
While building the thing (at the time) didn't seem to daunting a task, trying to make sure it was configured properly, and getting a decent wiring schematic to wire up the relay box proved too frustrating to mess with this morning. There is soo much information on that website, trying to find what should be a straight forward answer turned into two hours to find nothing.
I decided that that was gonna have to wait, besides, I had other things that needed done anyway.
So I shut off the computer, and went downstairs.
I said that I was gonna paint the trim ring on the HVAC panel black. For whatever reason, I decided to paint the whole face black. (kinda like Nick suggested). That faceplate is backlit, so I had to mask off the text and icons so as not to paint them. The text and icons were about 1/8' wide (notice I said about). I decided to trim a piece of 1/8" wide pinstripe tape to cover them up.
This is where Mr. Hack enters the picture.
You'd think that I've painted enough stuff to know that a piece of wonky tape placed over something, and then painted over will leave a tape line as big as hell.
For some reason, I chose to ignore that.
I paint the thing, and as soon as the paint is dry enough I pull the masking off.
It looks like ass.
So I get out the lacquer thinner and wipe off the paint, except that cover plate is plastic.
It melts. I get to looking at the HVAC control itself, and the rheostat that is the temp control is exposed.
Only now the rheostat is black.
Bottom line, I ruin the thing. 50.00 worth of garbage now all for the sake of making it more aesthetically pleasing, and more in harmony w/ the head unit.
I moved the coil off of the valve cover, but up until today hadn't actually moved it. I needed to make a bracket to hold the thing, so I set out to try and redeem myself. The bracket goes together OK, and I get it all mocked up w/ no incident. After the paint is dry I go to mount the thing, and the drill slips off the shooter screw, and dorks up the paint on the inner frame rail. (I get out the black sharpie, reassuring myself that the dink is hidden under the charge tube.
I get out the special order spark plug wires that I bought from Taylor (6 wires w/ EDIS sockets on one end, and no sparkplug boot on the other. All 5' long)
Only problem is, I don't know what the order of the coil packs are w/ regard to which one fires what cylinder. I think I know, but I've seen conflicting info out there, and I'm not about to cut up a special order plug wire set until I know for sure which one goes where.
So I leave it.
While I'm studying the plug wires, I get to looking at my turbo drain. Hmmm,.....really close to the exhaust. Now I'm worried that that will just melt despite the fact that there is a whole fingers width distance from the tubes it passes. To get a reference as to whether or not that hose will melt, you hold your finger that close to a turbo manifold that just made 20lbs of boost an see how it feels after an hour of sitting there. MELLLTTT.
I guess I'm looking for some sort of insulating sleeve now.
I move on.
This engine uses a on/off idle valve during a cold start.
This little doo-dad gets 12v from the ECU during a cold start, and opens, which is basically and electrically actuated vacuum leak. The engine speeds up, when it reaches operating temp, the 12v signal is stopped, and lil dude closes, no more vacuum leak. Engine goes back to normal idle speed.
That was another thing that I mounted today.
I decided that I would make an EGR block off plate, and drill and tap it for two 1/8"NPT nipples, and attach one of the nipples to my idle valve. Problem is that idle valve cannot see positive pressure (aka boost). So off I go to Auto Zone. I head straight back to the PCV valve section, and proceed to start opening everyone of them that looks like it might work, and blowing in one end, and sucking on the other. Now I know that your thinking that that must've been something to see, this old guy tearing open all of these sealed boxes, and immediately sticking each one in his mouth. I can assure you it was Autozone after all,....nobody saw me, especially not one of the experts behind the counter. After I did the blow/ suck test about ten times, I settled on one. I bought some brass nipples, and headed back home. Once I get there I step up my blow/suck test by blowing regulated air from the compressor through the thing. I stopped testing at 40PSI, cause the thing would just blow off the hose at that point. I guess it'll work.
There are two holes in the plate. One in front of the throttle blade, and one behind. Obviously I plumbed the line into the one behind the blade. The other end of the idle valve has to go all the way across the engine compartment and is tapped into non-boosted intake air.
This brings me to my question for any turbo guys that are reading this.
The other hole is in front of the throttle blade. Is it OK to use that hole to signal the BOV that I just let off of the throttle? I'm pretty sure it is, but I just wanted to check.
So a whole day. And I mean a WHOLE day. All I managed to do was mount two things, and ruin another. I still have to figure out how to wire the coil packs, and build the plug wires. I've gotta plumb the other end of the idle valve, and if I can use it, run the other pipe nipple to the BOV.
So I trudge upstairs to do some more research.
That requires another item to make that process go a little smoother:
Best damn cookies EVER.
I started today researching, (or trying to research) the proper way to wire the menagerie that is my engine, and the little black boxes that were once a bunch of doo-dads in baggies, that are now supposed to control it.
Let me just say this about Megasquirt.
While building the thing (at the time) didn't seem to daunting a task, trying to make sure it was configured properly, and getting a decent wiring schematic to wire up the relay box proved too frustrating to mess with this morning. There is soo much information on that website, trying to find what should be a straight forward answer turned into two hours to find nothing.
I decided that that was gonna have to wait, besides, I had other things that needed done anyway.
So I shut off the computer, and went downstairs.
I said that I was gonna paint the trim ring on the HVAC panel black. For whatever reason, I decided to paint the whole face black. (kinda like Nick suggested). That faceplate is backlit, so I had to mask off the text and icons so as not to paint them. The text and icons were about 1/8' wide (notice I said about). I decided to trim a piece of 1/8" wide pinstripe tape to cover them up.
This is where Mr. Hack enters the picture.
You'd think that I've painted enough stuff to know that a piece of wonky tape placed over something, and then painted over will leave a tape line as big as hell.
For some reason, I chose to ignore that.
I paint the thing, and as soon as the paint is dry enough I pull the masking off.
It looks like ass.
So I get out the lacquer thinner and wipe off the paint, except that cover plate is plastic.
It melts. I get to looking at the HVAC control itself, and the rheostat that is the temp control is exposed.
Only now the rheostat is black.
Bottom line, I ruin the thing. 50.00 worth of garbage now all for the sake of making it more aesthetically pleasing, and more in harmony w/ the head unit.
I moved the coil off of the valve cover, but up until today hadn't actually moved it. I needed to make a bracket to hold the thing, so I set out to try and redeem myself. The bracket goes together OK, and I get it all mocked up w/ no incident. After the paint is dry I go to mount the thing, and the drill slips off the shooter screw, and dorks up the paint on the inner frame rail. (I get out the black sharpie, reassuring myself that the dink is hidden under the charge tube.
I get out the special order spark plug wires that I bought from Taylor (6 wires w/ EDIS sockets on one end, and no sparkplug boot on the other. All 5' long)
Only problem is, I don't know what the order of the coil packs are w/ regard to which one fires what cylinder. I think I know, but I've seen conflicting info out there, and I'm not about to cut up a special order plug wire set until I know for sure which one goes where.
So I leave it.
While I'm studying the plug wires, I get to looking at my turbo drain. Hmmm,.....really close to the exhaust. Now I'm worried that that will just melt despite the fact that there is a whole fingers width distance from the tubes it passes. To get a reference as to whether or not that hose will melt, you hold your finger that close to a turbo manifold that just made 20lbs of boost an see how it feels after an hour of sitting there. MELLLTTT.
I guess I'm looking for some sort of insulating sleeve now.
I move on.
This engine uses a on/off idle valve during a cold start.
This little doo-dad gets 12v from the ECU during a cold start, and opens, which is basically and electrically actuated vacuum leak. The engine speeds up, when it reaches operating temp, the 12v signal is stopped, and lil dude closes, no more vacuum leak. Engine goes back to normal idle speed.
That was another thing that I mounted today.
I decided that I would make an EGR block off plate, and drill and tap it for two 1/8"NPT nipples, and attach one of the nipples to my idle valve. Problem is that idle valve cannot see positive pressure (aka boost). So off I go to Auto Zone. I head straight back to the PCV valve section, and proceed to start opening everyone of them that looks like it might work, and blowing in one end, and sucking on the other. Now I know that your thinking that that must've been something to see, this old guy tearing open all of these sealed boxes, and immediately sticking each one in his mouth. I can assure you it was Autozone after all,....nobody saw me, especially not one of the experts behind the counter. After I did the blow/ suck test about ten times, I settled on one. I bought some brass nipples, and headed back home. Once I get there I step up my blow/suck test by blowing regulated air from the compressor through the thing. I stopped testing at 40PSI, cause the thing would just blow off the hose at that point. I guess it'll work.
There are two holes in the plate. One in front of the throttle blade, and one behind. Obviously I plumbed the line into the one behind the blade. The other end of the idle valve has to go all the way across the engine compartment and is tapped into non-boosted intake air.
This brings me to my question for any turbo guys that are reading this.
The other hole is in front of the throttle blade. Is it OK to use that hole to signal the BOV that I just let off of the throttle? I'm pretty sure it is, but I just wanted to check.
So a whole day. And I mean a WHOLE day. All I managed to do was mount two things, and ruin another. I still have to figure out how to wire the coil packs, and build the plug wires. I've gotta plumb the other end of the idle valve, and if I can use it, run the other pipe nipple to the BOV.
So I trudge upstairs to do some more research.
That requires another item to make that process go a little smoother:
Best damn cookies EVER.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Bought this at O'Reilly to insulate my new starter cable so I don't melt it on my crossover pipe like my old starter cable... 3/4 x 3 ft for 18 bucks I think.. gonna also wrap the crossover pipe.
might work for ya... haven't used it yet so....
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That HVAC plate... Ouch. I figured as much about the masking, hence suggesting model paint and a little brush. Can you buy a replacement face for it separately?
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