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That video is awesome....absolutely awesome. The interior looks great in the overcast day light. My video sucks compared to that. I've got to make me one of those hat things.

I'm so glad for you. My maiden voyage is coming soon. Won't compare to yours though. Mine is just a " run of the mill " mustang.

The hood looks great from inside, too. Great work.

Cut the wheel and hammer the throttle....and " viola "....turning radius fixed. Lol.
 
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Awesome video, Mike!! That valvetrain is pretty noisy but its ok because when the BOV does its thing it makes up for it. And to think, you actually thought about taking the turbo off!!! :eek: The "PSSSHHH!!!!!" is too cool to not have on the Monster. Another thing, those rpms drop pretty drastically on upshifts. Is that because you were in part throttle and no boost?
 
Awesome video, Mike!! That valvetrain is pretty noisy but its ok because when the BOV does its thing it makes up for it. And to think, you actually thought about taking the turbo off!!! :eek: The "PSSSHHH!!!!!" is too cool to not have on the Monster. Another thing, those rpms drop pretty drastically on upshifts. Is that because you were in part throttle and no boost?
Here's the really interesting part about the run,.......

My engine is making boost at 1/4 throttle.

Should I say that again?

The datalog shows that when the engine hits boost I'm only at 25% throttle.

I'm guessing that at full throttle,...It'll be like I have a roots supercharger.

The RPM drops because I'm holding the throttle at 1/4 and letting the load on the engine make boost.

That would be the benefit of having a guy make the recommendation for the TC application that made it his business to know them. It was Reed at Works Turbo in Pelham that suggested that I have that 66mm twin scroll and told me to make my primaries no bigger than 1-5/8".

It looks like all that junk may actually work after all.
 
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Here's the really interesting part about the run,.......

My engine is making boost at 1/4 throttle.

Should I say that again?

The datalog shows that when the engine hits boost I'm only at 25% throttle.

I'm guessing that at full throttle,...It'll be like I have a roots supercharger.

The RPM drops because I'm holding the throttle at 1/4 and letting the load on the engine make boost.

That would be the benefit of having a guy make the recommendation for the TC application that made it his business to know them. It was Reed at Works Turbo in Pelham that suggested that I have that 66mm twin scroll and told me to make my primaries no bigger than 1-5/8".

It looks like all that junk may actually work after all.
I don't know what twin scroll on a turbo is but if it's anything like twin screw on a supercharger then that means more boost down low aka no lag. :banana::banana: Say it with me.... **WHISTLE...................PPPSSSSSHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!**
 
I don't know what twin scroll on a turbo is but if it's anything like twin screw on a supercharger then that means more boost down low aka no lag. :banana::banana: Say it with me.... **WHISTLE...................PPPSSSSSHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!**
In the time it took you to write that you coulda looked it up. Turbo class 101:
KlLE0yW.jpg

One bank of the engine that is on the power stroke is feeding one side while the other bank is getting rid of waste. There is a divided plenum in the turbo that acts like two individual smaller turbo's, with the one bank combined (three cylinders) feeding one half, and the other bank (the other 3) feeding the other half.
 
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In the time it took you to write that you coulda looked it up. Turbo class 101:
KlLE0yW.jpg

One bank of the engine that is on the power stroke is feeding one side while the other bank is getting rid of waste. There is a divided plenum in the turbo that acts like two individual smaller turbo's, with the one bank combined (three cylinders) feeding one half, and the other bank (the other 3) feeding the other half.
Ok, got it.......I think. I'll do more research later. I'm seriously planning to put a turbo on my car in the near future(in maybe 2 years) so I need to learn more about them.

Meanwhile, I need to be getting my butt in the attic to get the Christmas tree down and set up so the kids can decorate it tomorrow. Thanks for that quick lesson, Mike! :nice:
 
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Ok, got it.......I think. I'll do more research later. I'm seriously planning to put a turbo on my car in the near future(in maybe 2 years) so I need to learn more about them.

Meanwhile, I need to be getting my butt in the attic to get the Christmas tree down and set up so the kids can decorate it tomorrow. Thanks for that quick lesson, Mike! :nice:

Anytime you need a smart assed answer,..you know you can always count on me...
 
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I'm so happy for you that you are able to do these test drives man! Glad you're keeping the snail too. I mean really, go back and read your thread and you'll see you've spent sooooo much time on bigger issues that the tuning stuff will just be another step in the process.
 
Mike! I finally had time to watch your video. That was so much fun.

I'm glad it's running. Really look forward to the day that you can give it "what for".

Has Kate come begging for a ride yet? If not, ask her for me,"why not Kate? This is too cool to miss out on".
 
Mike! I finally had time to watch your video. That was so much fun.

I'm glad it's running. Really look forward to the day that you can give it "what for".

Has Kate come begging for a ride yet? If not, ask her for me,"why not Kate? This is too cool to miss out on".
I don't have to,...she'd hate it. The noise will be a huge problem for her, the fact that it has an automatic trans that has to be shifted will be "stupid",....The smell.......Steeeeeeerike 3!

I called places today.

I called a cam grinder to see if and how much it would cost me to have that solid roller cam reground to accommodate hydraulic roller lifters. I don't know if I'll do anything that radical,...(that is to actually do away with my 500.00 roller lifters, in favor of some chinee hydraulic roller version of the same) but the source of 90% of that noise is directly tied to that cam.
I will say that I'm not doing anything anytime soon w/ regard to that, since I believe that this cam is gonna be a heathen....and with it, I think the engine will see as much power as it will ever make.

I sent back some summit stuff that I didn't need. That will leave a credit, and with that I'm buying a high flow cat,..I know that. This car makes the entire house reek with half of it hanging out of the garage. There's room for one directly beneath the front passenger side floor board. Hopefully,...it will get the exhaust fumes under control.

Seems that I'm not the only one here trying to solve that problem.

The transmission...It already bugs me. Already. I don't mind upshifting, and down shifting the thing when I'm going forward...It's just the process to get it into reverse when that requires I upshift into 2nd, then 3rd while sitting still. I doesn't work. The engine dies when it sees 3rd gear. I'm thinkin' that it's because the converter is too tight, and when it hits 3rd, the load on the engine is similar to lugging a manual trans in the same gear at idle.
There's just gotta be something wrong there....Think about it. Every car that has a damn AODe/4R70w does not die when the transmission is shifted slowly through the range while sitting at idle.

Thinking about it............

OK,....I installed a microswitch that closes the ground contact, so that when I'm in high gear, the push button switch that puts the trans into OD will be disabled in any other gear other than 3rd.:thinking::thinking::thinking:

I know that push button switch works. The trans goes into 4th gear when I push that switch.

But the engine dies when the shifter hits 3rd gear at idle,..Just like that switch is engaged. Much the same as allowing an engine to lug to idle in 3rd gear of a manual trans.

I'll call tech at Transgo tomorrow. I want to know why there is a RPM flare between 1st and 2nd anyway.
 
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How does the trans shift? is it smooth enough, or is it jerry between shifts? Also, can you downshift easily, or do you have to slow down to a crawl to do so? Seems like from your video that it drove relatively well.

Joe
 
I don't have to,...she'd hate it. The noise will be a huge problem for her, the fact that it has an automatic trans that has to be shifted will be "stupid",....The smell.......Steeeeeeerike 3!

I called places today.

I called a cam grinder to see if and how much it would cost me to have that solid roller cam reground to accommodate hydraulic roller lifters. I don't know if I'll do anything that radical,...(that is to actually do away with my 500.00 roller lifters, in favor of some chinee hydraulic roller version of the same) but the source of 90% of that noise is directly tied to that cam.
I will say that I'm not doing anything anytime soon w/ regard to that, since I believe that this cam is gonna be a heathen....and with it, I think the engine will see as much power as it will ever make.

I sent back some summit stuff that I didn't need. That will leave a credit, and with that I'm buying a high flow cat,..I know that. This car makes the entire house reek with half of it hanging out of the garage. There's room for one directly beneath the front passenger side floor board. Hopefully,...it will get the exhaust fumes under control.

Seems that I'm not the only one here trying to solve that problem.

The transmission...It already bugs me. Already. I don't mind upshifting, and down shifting the thing when I'm going forward...It's just the process to get it into reverse when that requires I upshift into 2nd, then 3rd while sitting still. I doesn't work. The engine dies when it sees 3rd gear. I'm thinkin' that it's because the converter is too tight, and when it hits 3rd, the load on the engine is similar to lugging a manual trans in the same gear at idle.
There's just gotta be something wrong there....Think about it. Every car that has a damn AODe/4R70w does not die when the transmission is shifted slowly through the range while sitting at idle.

Thinking about it............

OK,....I installed a microswitch that closes the ground contact, so that when I'm in high gear, the push button switch that puts the trans into OD will be disabled in any other gear other than 3rd.:thinking::thinking::thinking:

I know that push button switch works. The trans goes into 4th gear when I push that switch.

But the engine dies when the shifter hits 3rd gear at idle,..Just like that switch is engaged. Much the same as allowing an engine to lug to idle in 3rd gear of a manual trans.

I'll call tech at Transgo tomorrow. I want to know why there is a RPM flare between 1st and 2nd anyway.
Since you are going to have some store credit-
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/pm...ce-automatic&gclid=CPXGoarL8tACFUokgQod-roNjQ
:hide:
 
I've been thinking about putting a cat on my car. At 14.3 at idle it puts out pretty strong fumes. I'll try to lean it out a little at idle....and explore my possibilities.

That transmission stuff is beyond my feeble brain. Overdrive is torque converter lock up, right ? In a normal trans that happens at about 45- 50mph. If the converter is locking up, or too tight, it'll make shifts harsh. Your trans operates different, though. Its not depending on trans fluid pressure to shift...you do that manually. Is there any way you can get a trans fluid pressure reading ? Most transmissions have a test port for this.....or call the trans folks, like you wrote before I wrote this.

A roller cam would be nice, and free up a little HP.
 
I've been thinking about putting a cat on my car. At 14.3 at idle it puts out pretty strong fumes. I'll try to lean it out a little at idle....and explore my possibilities.

That transmission stuff is beyond my feeble brain. Overdrive is torque converter lock up, right ? In a normal trans that happens at about 45- 50mph. If the converter is locking up, or too tight, it'll make shifts harsh. Your trans operates different, though. Its not depending on trans fluid pressure to shift...you do that manually. Is there any way you can get a trans fluid pressure reading ? Most transmissions have a test port for this.....or call the trans folks, like you wrote before I wrote this.

A roller cam would be nice, and free up a little HP.
A cat is a great idea. I tried all manner of timing and air fuel ratio to get the stink to go away from my car it never happened no matter how much you lean it out it will still stink and lean stink stinks. Another thing to remember @ 14.7afr exhaust gas temperatures reach their Peak and they cool down above stoic and Below stoic.
 
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I suspect that your 8 lb boost reading was a surge at the gauge. Do you have the line restricted in any way? You may need something in-line. My Innovate vac/boost gauge supplied with and recommended an orifice between .020 and .025.
 
I've been thinking about putting a cat on my car. At 14.3 at idle it puts out pretty strong fumes. I'll try to lean it out a little at idle....and explore my possibilities.

That transmission stuff is beyond my feeble brain. Overdrive is torque converter lock up, right ? In a normal trans that happens at about 45- 50mph. If the converter is locking up, or too tight, it'll make shifts harsh. Your trans operates different, though. Its not depending on trans fluid pressure to shift...you do that manually. Is there any way you can get a trans fluid pressure reading ? Most transmissions have a test port for this.....or call the trans folks, like you wrote before I wrote this.

A roller cam would be nice, and free up a little HP.

However 4th gear in a 4R70w is accomplished,..there is a switch on my console that accomplishes that. There is also a seperate switch that locks up the converter,...so I'm thinkin' it's actually a real 4 speed auto trans.
A 4R70w has a stupid steep 1st gear (wish I woulda known that,..this car would have a 3.23 rear gear otherwise)
1 = 2.84; 2 = 1.55; 3 = 1.00; 4 = .70

I looked at my set of instructions,...I chose a fairly aggressive version of the build,..but the instructions expect you to road test,.........and modify sht accordingly......
In other words,......drain the pan,....remove it,..and lay on your back unbolting a slimy, dripping,...valvebody.

What does the finger say again,...I forget....:scratch:........Oh yeah......Now I remember.

NO!:nono::nono::nono:

Transmission pressure is regulated by a vacuum modulator that is inside the case now,..in place of the original throttle control valve that was electronically controlled before. Vacuum modulators.......think about that now......

What happens to a vacuum modulator that sees positive pressure?.......... (I'd think it would make a little tiny fish farting noise when the diaphragm pops..) It'd be like:...........Pliip!

But it's all good. I knew that. There is a goofy assed looking check-ball thingy that won't allow the modulator see boost installed in-line to prevent the fish fart.

It'll be one of those things that gets put on the list I'm sure.....I can't go sideways...Silverfox makes a true manual VB to replace my "kitted" factory valve body,..but it will not accommodate TC LU. Don't think I want that.

The electronic option of going backwards is complicated, and expensive. I don't know about that yet either.

We'll see what happens when I put my foot in it.....I already have a concern that I've fcked something up.

And along those lines, I've decided that I have a disease:

I'm an automotive Hypochondriac.

I find, or think sht is wrong with the car that isn't.
 
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I suspect that your 8 lb boost reading was a surge at the gauge. Do you have the line restricted in any way? You may need something in-line. My Innovate vac/boost gauge supplied with and recommended an orifice between .020 and .025.
Well if there was a surge at the gauge,..that "surge" occurred at two seperate gauge taps,....
The boost gauge that is in Winkin, and the Map sensor that is in the ECU both saw 8 pounds of boost.
 
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