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Welcome. You sure have your work cut out for you! If you can restore that, then you have a bright future in car building. If you are not already aware, cut some access holes in the front frame rail where it meets the strut tower and look inside for rot. Based on the what I see, that may be a hidden trouble area on that car, and I had to fix it on my car when the rest of the car looks rust free.
 
Yeah, it would be nearly impossible to access with the engine still in the car. Have any of your old projects had as much rust as this GT? It looks pretty daunting to me. Another “hidden” area to look for is the base of the windshield under the fenders. Several have found rot there as well without knowing until taking a fender off to hide engine bay wires.
 
Looks like you definitely have some work ahead of you. You might want to take a look at that car up on a lift and see what the underside looks like. Check the shock towers, floors, rockers for rust. Look over that whole car really well inside and out and see if its really something you want to get into repairing. Just my .02. Not sure I would get into that man.
 
You are definitely going to need to check those strut towers. I'd do this before putting any work into the car. Being from MA also I've seen these cars rot out just from sitting for years.

Drivers side strut tower usually gets it the worse. A little brake fluid seems to accelerate the problem. I see a few areas around the MC and below that look troubling. Depending on how bad it is, the car may be just scrap metal at this point. Hopefully not.

But I commend you for taking on the project at 15. def keep us updated
 
Also does anyone know how to open a locked door. The drivers door is locked and my dad never got keys. If the electric lock doesn't work what should i do to open it? Thanks!
Chris

Sounds like the lock actuator is seized which is physically holding the door lock shut.

You can try slipping a thin screwdriver in from the outside under the door handle and pry up on the door lock pin. It should move easily. If not, the actuator is seized shut and the process becomes a bit more tricky.
 
If the lock plunger is frozen you could try unscrewing the top on the lock rod on top of the door, grab it with a small vice grip pliers and pull up, you may be able to force the lock rod up enough to open the door, if not the easiest way to open the door would be to pull the drivers seat out so you can take the door panel off and take the door lock actuator off its hanger.
have you tried to jump the actuator?
 
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There hace been a few I had to grab the lock knob with vice grips. Pulling the panel is a sure fire way to not damage anything unlocking the door.

If the door won't unlock manually you can pop the lock actuator out of its holding bracket. It's just a white plastic bracket. It holds rubber grommets that hold the actuator. Push down on it and it'll come loose....wd40 or PB blaster helps.

On my current car the locks were stuck. I removed both actuators and brackets....now doors unlock and lock manually. I'll salvage some actuators from some Fords out in the JY eventually. Not a big fan of remans.
 
This car has a lot of rust in a lot of areas that are more involved fixes. I have never seen an a-pillar rust like that on these cars. With that said, if you already have the right tools, it would be a great car to learn the skills if you are interested in body work. I would suggest not spending too much money. Just learn the repairs and see how it comes out. If it is looking good, maybe then you spend some money. You are going to have a lot of cutting and welding, but I've seen people restore much worse.
 
Agree with the others here. Pull the car apart to a rolling shell and assess how bad it is. If you continue, take the repairs one at a time. Don't get overwhelmed if it needs a ton of work. It looks like the hardest part will be where the pillar meets the roof. I'm doing a '84 right now and it was rotted there too, but replaced the whole roof skin to fix things. Front floor pans are not too bad to do if it needs them and are fairly cheap. If you can cut, weld, and grind, you can bring that car back to life. Oh, keep the original front end on there too. Don't see too many of those any more.
 
I guess step #1 is to bust out the shop vac and start clearing that car out to evaluate how much rust repair you'll need to do.

You're going to need to budget for new floor pans at a minimum and then welding them in there. Honestly I wouldn't worry about the nose right now. Pull the fenders and nose off, roll the car to a good work area where it can stay for a while and start stripping it down. Evaluate how much rot you really have on this car. Check the A_pillar area where the doors bolt up and where the cowl panel is. You'll want to at least pull the inner fender liners to check this.
 
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Yep, vacuum that thing out. Do a complete teardown of the front end, doors, fenders front cover and check where Mustang5L5 said. I'm still unsure about this car man, to be honest.
 
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yeah clean it really well then worry about what is next get to the floor pans and any other rust so you have a solid car and stick with the 4 eye front end i had issues finding a nice clean 4 eye coupe so i swapped my 89 to a 4 eye was not easy to do as to having to find all of the correct pieces you need its not just about a bumper swap
 
You’re fifteen and you get to work on this with your father. That is mint. I wish my boys would’ve shown that kind of interest.

This will be a great car for you to learn a bunch of new skills on.

Go for it little brother. It sounds like your old man has a bit of experience, but if you run into a problem that you can’t figure out, hit us up, combined we’ve done everything to a fox body.

BTW, I’m more than a little partial to that ‘83-‘84 4i’d nose. See if one pops up eventually that you can trade stuff for. An ‘84 with the fog lights would be very nice.
 
You’re fifteen and you get to work on this with your father. That is mint. I wish my boys would’ve shown that kind of interest.

This will be a great car for you to learn a bunch of new skills on.

Go for it little brother. It sounds like your old man has a bit of experience, but if you run into a problem that you can’t figure out, hit us up, combined we’ve done everything to a fox body.

BTW, I’m more than a little partial to that ‘83-‘84 4i’d nose. See if one pops up eventually that you can trade stuff for. An ‘84 with the fog lights would be very nice.

Your right Dave, my only point was spending tons of money to get that car where it needs to be just to be a safe driver. I do like the idea of you learning new skills, especially with your father. My dad wasn't around for stuff like that.
 
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I work on my dad with cars all the time. I didn't want his help on this car. I can use advice but I want to figure it out. I have been working on older mustangs for a long time. This isn't much different. I hope I can do this by myself

Don’t take that time with your Dad for granted. My dad got me into cars, and much like you, I started when I was young with a car in my garage before I had my license.
I’m 46 now, and not a day goes by that I don’t wish my Dad was still here to enjoy this car with me!