1984 Mustang - Wiring issues - Any suggestions would be appreciated

mercury-man

Member
Mar 17, 2022
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Texas
I have a very original 1984 Mustang 5.0 that has several issues:
1. Dash lights don't work
2. Temp gauge and Amp gauge don't register
3. Windshield Wipers don't work (they do work if they are jumpered).

When I look under the dash, I see several connectors that are not attached (see pictures below). The question marks on the connectors were already there. I also see what I think is some wiring that has been added.

The prior owner added air conditioning and I have to wonder if the wiring issues are the result of the air conditioning being added. The air conditioning was added to look like factory air. Incidentally, the air does not blow cold.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated. Or am I dealing with a hornet's next that has no easy solution. Or does the car need to be completely re-wired?
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Except for the a/c, the car is very original. Being a notchback 5.0 with 5-speed transmission, it is a rare car.

There are also some disconnected wires under the hood.

Here is a description of the car, from 2017, before the a/c was added:
original ad.jpg
Marti Report.jpg
marti snapshot.jpeg
 
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I am redoing some of the wiring under the hood in my 83... It was a survivor too, but some of the wiring is cracked and brittle while some of its in great condition.. Rebuilding the engine harness as NONE are available........
Beautiful car.......
 
Those look like relay connections.


Keep in mind, Ford tried to make as few combinations of harnesses easy year as they could. So there might be one or two dash harnesses covering 6 or 7 models and engine types. For example, a lot of the connectors for the convertible top relays are present on hardtops, but just left empty. On the 87+ cars, the 2.3L fan controller plug is a very common plug that people always ask "what does this go to?"

So it's entirely possible those plugs do not connect to anything because they are not needed for your model.

I would highly recommend a 1984 EVTM which may help troubleshoot your issues.



for the inop dash lights have you checked the fuse? I believe there is a 5am fuse just for those.
 
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Thanks very much for the recommendation on the Shop Manual. I have purchased it.

And thanks for your thoughts about the possibility that a lot of the un-attached connectors may not be needed. Whoever put the question marks on the disconnected connectors was probably like me and did not understand that they might not be needed.

I will check the dash light fuse.

I also notice that the windshield wipers have a 6 amp circuit breaker (#2) so I will do some research on that. I suppose it is possible that the circuit breaker has gone bad????

The temp gauge definitely does not register. And the Amp gauge needle never moves from the center position so I don't think it works. I suppose both gauges could be bad, but, since they appear to be on the same circuit, I suspect that something isn't properly. connected.
 
I am a duffer of a mechanic. I have a volt meter, but no test light. But I would need to study some youtube videos on how to begin to test a wiring circuit.

I should have learned to be a better mechanic when I was younger (I will be 86 this year). But my interest was always in detailing and polishing and making the cars look good.

I am going to check the dash light fuse and also pull the windshield wiper circuit breaker and take it to a parts store to be tested.
 
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OK, the dash light fuse was blown. I installed a new fuse, turned on the lights the new fuse instantly blew, so there has to be a shoirt shomewhere. But, for me, finding it will be a challenge.

I also took the windshield wiper circuit breaker to O'Reilleys but they said that they had no way to test it.
 
Could the problem with my dash lights possibly be the light switch? All the exterior lights come on and, when I rotate the light switch until it clicks, the interior overhead light comes on. Or is it more likely to be a bare wire?

As previously mentioned, I took my windshield wiper circuit breaker (6 amp, part number D9ZB14526-AA) to O'Reilleys and they said that they had no way to test it. Can anyone suggest a parts store that could test my circuit breaker?
 
You should be able to test a breaker with a test light or DVM. Set one prong of the breaker on the positive terminal of the battery and touch a test light probe to the other (ground side of test light on battery ground).
Similar with a DVM.
Pull the instrument cluster out, with the connector for the lights unplugged, install a good fuse, if it blows then the problem is in the wires, if not it will be the print board on the cluster.
You can do the same test with the switch. Maybe start with the switch 'cause the power through the switch before the cluster.
 
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They had to completely dismantle the dash To find and fix the problems.

Several problems were apparently created when the a/c and the aftermarket radio was installed.

It turned out that the under dash wiring to the wiper stalk had been left dis-connected.

The temp sending unit had to be replaced. The dash lights had a short (some bare wires and a problem with the radio wiring). The amp gauge started working after everything was put back together so something they did in re-arranging and correcting the routing of under dash wiring apparently fixed the amp gauge.

As someone commented earlier, most of the unplugged connectors were for features that my car doesn’t have.

I had to hunt long and hard to find a shop that would take on my car. Luckily, the shop I finally found took a real interest in helping me. A big plus, they were reasonable and less than two miles from my house.
 
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They had to completely dismantle the dash To find and fix the problems.

Several problems were apparently created when the a/c and the aftermarket radio was installed.

It turned out that the under dash wiring to the wiper stalk had been left dis-connected.

The temp sending unit had to be replaced. The dash lights had a short (some bare wires and a problem with the radio wiring). The amp gauge started working after everything was put back together so something they did in re-arranging and correcting the routing of under dash wiring apparently fixed the amp gauge.

As someone commented earlier, most of the unplugged connectors were for features that my car doesn’t have.

I had to hunt long and hard to find a shop that would take on my car. Luckily, the shop I finally found took a real interest in helping me. A big plus, they were reasonable and less than two miles from my house.
good to hear... sounds like a good shop....