1986-1993 Lx Mustang Identification?

93gtmustang

5 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
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I have a 5.0 93 GT, so I don't know very much about the Lx 4 and 6 cylinder models.
I have the oportunity to get a LX for free that has been sitting and slowly sinking in the weeds. It was locked and there are no keys, so I couldn't even get in it to open the hood. It has the same wheels as this link AutoTrader.com . It's dark blue, body is in good shape, hatchback, single exhaust , so I'm thinking it's a 4 or 6 cylinder. And it's an auto trans.
Is there a link for LX Mustangs (4 & 6 cylinders ) that tells how they where set up, as far as, rear ends, transmissions, identification by year.
I would like to gut this car, put in a 347 stroker carburated, and make it a full drag racing car. I don't know if it would be worth it if I have to change the whole rear to an 8.8. Change the K-member for the 347?
At that point I may be better off finding a 5.0 with out a motor, which might be a better starting point.?
Has anyone here had any experience doing this with a 4 or 6 cylinder LX?
Any help would be great!
Thanks
 
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What year is this car that you are looking at? That would help tremendously. Up to 1986, available engines included the 2.3L 4-cyl, a 3.8L V6 and of course the 5.0 V8. From 87-93, it was only the 2.3 or the 5.0. Wheels are fully interchangeable between all models from 79-93 as long as the car maintains its factory 4-lug setup, so wheels are not a concrete indication of anything. All rear ends in non-5.0 cars were 7.5 open rears, so no traction lock, and all transmissions were weaker and had different ratios than those paired with 5.0's. The C3 non-overdrive automatic trans was common in 4 and 6 cyl cars up until 86, and from 87-93 was the A4LD. Manual transmissions included the SROD 4-speed and a lighter duty version of the T-5. The real wild card here is that the K member is different than 5.0 cars. The 4-cyl can be adapted for V8 use, but the V6 cars had a totally different setup.

If you plan on ripping out everything and building a purpose built drag car, it doesnt matter what you start with as the only original part of the car will be the body. If you are looking for straight up ease of work without swapping countless parts, find an original 5.0 car to start with. Just please dont cut up a clean 5.0, pick up one that is solid for your purpose but needs work. Either way, good luck, its going to be a fun project.:nice: