Progress Thread 1986 GT 5.0 Mustang Restoration/Bringing my dad's old car back to life

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
Jul 16, 2019
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Alright then, thanks a lot. At this point, any input helps as I am stuck between milling the spindle down to fit the 87 shocks and seeing how much Willy will sell his 86 shocks for? Speaking of so, WillyBill how much would you let those 86 shocks go for.
$100 plus shipping. Never been opened.
 

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Kyle427

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Apr 23, 2021
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Alright sweet super excited since purchasing the new shock will save lots of time. All I need is some new balljoint dust covers for the control arms in the front. Other than that the car is almost ready.:bs::bs:
 
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Kyle427

Active Member
Apr 23, 2021
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ATTENTION: Currently looking for Bilstein struts that will fit an 85 Mustang GT 5.0

I swear these struts are harder to come by than an 85 mustang itself. Just kiddin, is there a spacer that I could purchase to make the 87 struts fit the 85 spindles?
 

Kyle427

Active Member
Apr 23, 2021
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:shrug::coff:
 

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Kyle427

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Apr 23, 2021
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Alright guys, finally after so long I can say the car is almost back on the road! Got the 87 struts mounted to the 85 spindles and on the car, new calipers, rotors, brake lines, and the springs in. Ended up manual milling the spindles down to the correct size to fit the 87 struts, and had to bore one of the mounting holes. The holes for the bolts on the struts are two different sizes, one standard and one metric which has me wondering why they do that. Anyways I have been trying to locate the center rear-end brake line that splits the main brake line to the lines coming from the slave cylinders and after around 3 visits to my local parts store and a couple of hours each visit we managed to find one that fits.

There is a ticking coming from one of the valve covers, it does not sound like an exhaust leak either, I am assuming it's a stuck/sticky lifter. Going to pull it off today and go in for a closer look. After I sort that, she should be ready for the streets. :stir::lol::bs:
 
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Kyle427

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Apr 23, 2021
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Here are some pictures to hold you guys over until it's back on the ground.
 

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Kyle427

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Apr 23, 2021
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Well, I got both of the valve covers off yesterday. Here's a little background on the rockers, my dad and grandpa designed the engine using Engine Anylizer Pro for high torque low RPM's. My grampa worked part time for his friend Dima Elgin of Elgin Cams (plus my dad and grampa both have machine shops) and he compared the stock cam and the truck cam on a cam analyzer, put the spec's in the software along with all the other spec's from the heads and header lengths and determined that the truck cam made for torque for around town driving. But to come up with the most power the engine needed higher ratio rocker arms so they made special triple roller rockers with 1.92exhst & 1.9intke ratios. The engine dyno'd at 345ftlbs torque & 333hp with the stock carburetor, the figured that was good enough for a grocery gett'r. So, the problem winds up being that the exhaust rocker tip bearings were not getting good enough oiling during operation and they failed. No exactly sure how long that was going on for but luckily they made a few extra rockers so we've ordered new bearings (be here Tuesday) and we are going to modify the rockers for better oil flow to the tip and hopefully remedy the problem.
 
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Kyle427

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Apr 23, 2021
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Alright guys I ran into hopefully my last problem and that would be the brakes. I have new brake calipers and all new stuff for the drums, I bled the brakes and when the car is running I have no brake pedal actuation. When it's running I press the pedal in to the floor, with ease, and the rpms at idle rise around 50 to 100rpm.
 

Kyle427

Active Member
Apr 23, 2021
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Yes replacement calipers, MC, brake booster, slave cylinders, and lines. I assume it's because I did not bench bleed the MC & brake booster, would that be causing like no brake pedal pressure while the car is running? How would I fix this problem?
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Bad booster would just feel hard. Sinking to the floor usually means air in the system still, however if the pedal gets rock hard and stays at the top of the stroke with the engine off, it could mean there isn’t air.

All the lines are new? No signs of leaks anywhere in the system?
 
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