Drivetrain 1989 T5 Keeps Breaking Throwout Bearings

Volvord302

New Member
Sep 12, 2017
8
0
1
30
Last winter I rebuilt my t5. In addition to the transmission i replaced the clutch with a luk and had the flywheel resurfaced. I also replaced the bearing retainer with a steel one and did the input shaft. Before the rebuild the clutch was fine, if a little stiff.

However since the rebuild i have been eating through throwout bearings. One luk, one cheap oreilly bearing, and now I'm on a timken bearing which is starting to make quite a bit of noise. When the first two bearings broke it was at the collar. At the last trans r/r i decided to replace the ball stud and fork which were quite worn.

Now the thing i have realized is the t/o bearing doesn't even contact the diaphragm springs until about halfway through the fork travel. In fact it is so far up the clutch doesn't disengage until the tob is partway past the bearing retainer.

I believe that is why i broke the first two bearings. The question is why is this happening? Could it be a combination of factors? And what can i do to remedy the situation?

Auxiliary info: i took a look at the luk compared to the original clutch (ford racing i believe) and it was a good 1/4 inch shorter than the ford clutch.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
28,758
10,782
224
Box behind Walmart
www.stangnet.com
Last winter I rebuilt my t5. In addition to the transmission i replaced the clutch with a luk and had the flywheel resurfaced. I also replaced the bearing retainer with a steel one and did the input shaft. Before the rebuild the clutch was fine, if a little stiff.

However since the rebuild i have been eating through throwout bearings. One luk, one cheap oreilly bearing, and now I'm on a timken bearing which is starting to make quite a bit of noise. When the first two bearings broke it was at the collar. At the last trans r/r i decided to replace the ball stud and fork which were quite worn.

Now the thing i have realized is the t/o bearing doesn't even contact the diaphragm springs until about halfway through the fork travel. In fact it is so far up the clutch doesn't disengage until the tob is partway past the bearing retainer.

I believe that is why i broke the first two bearings. The question is why is this happening? Could it be a combination of factors? And what can i do to remedy the situation?

Auxiliary info: i took a look at the luk compared to the original clutch (ford racing i believe) and it was a good 1/4 inch shorter than the ford clutch.

Sorry that I didn't see this thread earlier. I'll kick this off and hopefully some others will find it as well like, @Mustang5L5

I want to begin with your TOB engagement (had to make sure I was in a Fox forum, hehe). On a Fox, the TOB should almost always be in contact with the surface of the clutch springs. If it's not, it out of adjustment. A firewall adjuster and quadrant can help with this. Maximum Motorsport, Steeda, UPR, or my personal favorite is the Fiore Micro-Click (Google this as it's name has since changed).

Replace your clutch fork. Even if it's brand spanking new and still has the "Made in China" sticker still on it, replace it with a Ford factory piece. When you order the new clutch fork, order a Ford TOB as well. LIGHTLY coat the steel bearing retainer with high speed/heat grease. Just rub it in and wipe off the excess with a paper towel. You should barely be able to see it.

Replace the flywheel with a forged steel one. Start fresh, is what I'm saying.

If I missed anything, the guys will fill in.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
27,404
2,851
234
74
Dublin GA
lowendmac.com
This may help...


Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

?temp_hash=3b781a008f68f70d0bde9d6310e08fdb.gif
 

Volvord302

New Member
Sep 12, 2017
8
0
1
30
Sorry that I didn't see this thread earlier. I'll kick this off and hopefully some others will find it as well like, @Mustang5L5

I want to begin with your TOB engagement (had to make sure I was in a Fox forum, hehe). On a Fox, the TOB should almost always be in contact with the surface of the clutch springs. If it's not, it out of adjustment. A firewall adjuster and quadrant can help with this. Maximum Motorsport, Steeda, UPR, or my personal favorite is the Fiore Micro-Click (Google this as it's name has since changed).

Replace your clutch fork. Even if it's brand spanking new and still has the "Made in China" sticker still on it, replace it with a Ford factory piece. When you order the new clutch fork, order a Ford TOB as well. LIGHTLY coat the steel bearing retainer with high speed/heat grease. Just rub it in and wipe off the excess with a paper towel. You should barely be able to see it.

Replace the flywheel with a forged steel one. Start fresh, is what I'm saying.

If I missed anything, the guys will fill in.
Thank you for your response. The TOB being in constant contact with the springs isn't an issue as it's a hydraulic setup. The issue lies with how far along in the travel of the fork that the TOB makes contact with the springs.

Your other points are well taken. New forged flywheel, ford TOB, ford fork, and i figure a ford clutch while I'm at it. Do you have any other suggestions on a flywheel or a clutch brand? Motor is a stock HO with no real plans to wake it up yet.
Thanks again, pretty much confirms what I had intended to do.

Just as an aside, what do you figure would cause the contact point on the springs to be so far up? I had the flywheel shaved once not sure if it was done before.
 

Volvord302

New Member
Sep 12, 2017
8
0
1
30
This may help...


Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

?temp_hash=3b781a008f68f70d0bde9d6310e08fdb.gif
Thank you. I've had the trans out enough times that i got this down pat hahaha.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
27,404
2,851
234
74
Dublin GA
lowendmac.com
Yes i did.
Post a picture or tell us where the throwout bearing is breaking. We may be able to give you some additional help.

Is this a hydraulic or cable operated clutch? If hydraulic, does it still use the stock clutch fork? Is the input shaft housing steel or aluminum? The aluminum input shaft housings have a tendency to score and bind.
 

Volvord302

New Member
Sep 12, 2017
8
0
1
30
Hydraulic setup. Wilwood master, 04 maxima external slave. Stock fork. Steel shaft housing. Pictures will be coming as soon as possible.
 

Volvord302

New Member
Sep 12, 2017
8
0
1
30
Post a picture or tell us where the throwout bearing is breaking. We may be able to give you some additional help.

Is this a hydraulic or cable operated clutch? If hydraulic, does it still use the stock clutch fork? Is the input shaft housing steel or aluminum? The aluminum input shaft housings have a tendency to score and bind.

Unfortunately i threw away the ones that broke but i have the original which was fine. Anyhow here is what happened.
The first picture has a red line where separation occured. It's on the collar where it meets the back of the bearing.

The second picture shows further damage to the collar. There was a deep groove on the nub of the collar that is supposed to keep it from spinning in the fork and a crack lengthwise on the collar. Obviously it somehow bound and spun the entire bearing and busted it.
Apologies if formatting is funny I'm on mobile.
 

Attachments

Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
A Fender swap? 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 6
S Electrical wiper problem 1989 LX Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
M Drivetrain Going from T5 to 1996 truck 4r70w 1989 GT Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 8
C Rebuilding my 1989 mustang GT 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 13
C What's it Worth? 1989 LX 5.0 Coupe What is it Worth?!?!? 3
MikeR351w 1989 Mustang Carb conversion, need pics. Fox Engine Swaparoo 0
M Please help 1989 GT Hatchback.I can not find an L.E.D.smoked 3rd taillight. The Welcome Wagon 4
J 1989 lx mustang help 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 5
8 General 3g alternator upgrade on 1989 AscMclaren mustang. Special Production 2
1989FoxBro 1989 5.0, Awful squeaking/whining noise because of no PCV System? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 12
7 Need 1988-90 lx body parts passenger door and maybe passenger fender ? My paint code is 7n thanks The Welcome Wagon 12
M Brakes Does anyone know specific casting numbers on 1989 GT O.E. Calipers? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 11
C For Sale 1989 lx hatch 5000 Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) 0
C 1989 mustang GT smoking white Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 7
BP Builds Fox 1989 LX complete restoration - the long slow project car 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 24
S 1989 Foxbody Project - For Sale Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) 0
EarnhartBuilt For Sale 193 Original Miles on this RARE Barn Find 1989 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) 1
G For Sale 1989 5.0 mustang turbocharged Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) 3
M 1998 explorer 302 into 1989 car.... 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 3
M New member - Mike - 1989 GT Convertible The Welcome Wagon 3
Y My new ‘89 LX Conv 5.0 The Welcome Wagon 2
L Engine Constant ticking/clicking noise 1989 Mustsng GT Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 2
Rusty327 1989 Mustang GT convertible Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
G Interior and Upholstery 1987-1989 Coupe rear seats 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 2
M Does anyone know what the hole to the left of the oil pressure sender is for?? 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 6
K Brake switch 1989 fox 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 2
M Low Fuel Pressure 1989 LX 5.0 Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 14
C Considering rebuilding my 1989 mustang GT 302 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 12
C Fox Will these rims work on my 1989 mustang? 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 0
8 1989 347 stroker motor starting issue Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 7
M 1989 Mustang LX 5.0 engine problem Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 22
stang89bidges SOLD 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 Black, Hatchback, T5, DFW Texas Fox Body Mustangs For Sale (1979-93) 8
C New member with 1989 Mustang Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 3
J 1989 wont start after motor swap Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 79
8 Engine 1989 turbo mustang Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 5
E Fox 1989 GT wiring 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 6
E 1989 stiff clutch Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 7
S Engine 1989 mustnag efi to holly sniper swap Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 19
W 1989 CFD special edition random stall? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
M 1983 engine going into 1989 mustang lx 2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech 4
J Engine 1989 Gt vert stock heads valve spring help Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 1
T 1989 5.0 GT smoke out tail pipe issue. 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 5
S Engine 1989 mustang gt wont start when reseting the key switch Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 11
R 1989 Ford Mustang GT Stock all the way Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 4
C New to Fox body help needed Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 5
R Electrical 1989 gt 5.0 pops thru intake on hard accell, hot or cold, runs good if easy on throttle ???\ Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 2
K Fox 1989-looking for the best camshaft 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 1
R Engine 1989 LX - Engine Trouble Noise & Rich - Help Appreciated Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 8
S Engine 1989 347 stroker Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 2
R 1989 Ford Mustang GT 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- 1
Similar threads