1991 Mustang motor mounts replacement

Blueinfan

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Mar 18, 2021
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Hi All,
my motor mounts on my 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 convertible are really in need of replacing. So I bought some poly ones from LMR.

My question is where do I lift the engine up so I have enough clearance to remove n add?

I do not have an engine lift. The car sits on tire cribs.
 

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Gs1987GT

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Carefully position a few blocks of wood on the oil pan (not on the drain plug) and Jack from there carefully. That's what I did when I installed the energy suspension poly mounts on my car. It worked well, but be ready for a fight. The energy suspension mounts are physically larger than the stock rubber mounts and can be tricky getting them in and past everything.

Be very careful removing the mount bolts from the block. I snapped one off which became a nightmare. Good luck, hope all goes smoothly for you.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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I have lifted engines up on the damper, not reeaalllyy a smart place but I've gotten away with it a few times, I don't recommend the bottom of the oil pan but :shrug:
What I have done when changing engine mounts was I took a 2x4 on end against the pan rail on the side I was working on, lift it enough to get the mount out. Slide over to the other side.
Oh, and don't bump your head
 
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manicmechanic007

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I get nervous about using the damper too
It is the best way to go
I like most dealer techs started out as a motor man and oil pans were our business
So many 460 trucks and so many leaks 5.8 and 302 arrrggghhh!
Oil pan gaskets used to squalk right out of them
 
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Habu135

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Small block of 2x4 wood under the oil pan. Go slow, listen for noises and you'll be fine.

I went with local auto parts store rubber bushings. No complaints and a fairly easy install.
 
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nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
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Oil pan carefully,solid mounts for years of daily driving so far.
 
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Blueinfan

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Thank you all! I was finally able to switch out those mounts. I removed the oil filter and lifted the engine from the oil pan that is closer to the swaybar. Took me about 3 hours. But it's done. Now off to the transmission mount.
 
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Gs1987GT

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Good deal, jacking it under the oil pan is your best bet, so long as you use proper wood blocking and take your time. You can almost always feel the resistance build at the upper limit before you bend the oil pan and stop, if you go slowly, pay attention and take your time.

I always worried about damaging the harmonic balancer, or bending the nose of the crank or damaging the front crank seal, so I personally do not suggest jacking on the balancer unless absolutely necessary, but to each their own.
 
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Blueinfan

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Good deal, jacking it under the oil pan is your best bet, so long as you use proper wood blocking and take your time. You can almost always feel the resistance build at the upper limit before you bend the oil pan and stop, if you go slowly, pay attention and take your time.

I always worried about damaging the harmonic balancer, or bending the nose of the crank or damaging the front crank seal, so I personally do not suggest jacking on the balancer unless absolutely necessary, but to each their own.
 

Blueinfan

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Thank you all for the help.

While removing the transmission mount the damn right/ passenger screw on the mount won’t budge.

I have been spraying WD40 for a week now n will attempt to remove it to day.

I’ve heard that heating up the bolt for 30sec with a torch will work. Is this true?

Is there anything that can be damaged if I heat that screw up?
 

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manicmechanic007

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Blueinfan,
Absolutely
Back and forth with heat and cold
I get it cherry red where I can and then hit it with something cold like Freeze off
Jaguar Fulcrum bolts freeze up and that is the only way
Those new induction heat gizmos are killer and one of them will be in my toolbox soon
 

manicmechanic007

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With my last stuck Jaguar Fulcrum bolt (took me 25 days)
Back and forth with the heat
Finally got it to budge with the freeze stuff a friend told me to try
Miracle sheet that freeze
 
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manicmechanic007

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Jag calls their lower a arm thru bolt the fulcrum bolt
Big Long Ignorant Bolt
Rust into the frame for about 6 inches
 

manicmechanic007

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The stuff is in a spray can
Freeze off or something like that
I cannot find the can to take a photo but I have seen it at industrial supply houses
 
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Gs1987GT

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Sep 25, 2019
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Thank you all for the help.

While removing the transmission mount the damn right/ passenger screw on the mount won’t budge.

I have been spraying WD40 for a week now n will attempt to remove it to day.

I’ve heard that heating up the bolt for 30sec with a torch will work. Is this true?

Is there anything that can be damaged if I heat that screw up?
BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!! The right side rear on my car is the one that snapped off on me , nearly flush with the block.

Nothing I tried worked to get it out, including heating the block cherry red in that area several times with my touch, PB blaster for days, etc.

I ended up drilling it out and tapping the hole to 3/8 for now. Its holding just fine, but my engine is stock, no slicks, etc.

Total multi week nightmare and I nearly conceded and pulled the engine, but got it tapped straight so that worked. If I didnt have a lift in my shop I dont think I could have gotten it tapped straight as it was very difficult/ limited access to work.

Keep working it as you've been and dont snap it off like I did and spare yourself the pain and aggravation. Good luck.
 
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