1992 LX Build thread!

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Bansheeman6100, Mar 20, 2011.

  1. yeah, i remember reading that thread awhile back. so you used the SN95 TPS and IAC, and just spliced on their plugs? and is there a difference between their V6 and 4.6/5.0 TB's?
  2. Yea, the 94-95 5.0s are a two year deal. 4.6 tbodies are different. I used a supercoupe throttle body for my swap. The IAC plugged right in. On the 94-95 TPS they have a plug on the body itself no pigtail, so I spliced the pigtail from a 2.3 TPS onto a SN95 tps plug. The 94-95 iac works much better and has a smoother transition. I had to cut the EGR off and weld the intake to use the TPS.
  3. Had to move some wire pins around, and change a couple parameters in the tune... mostly to account for the pip signal.

    I tried to make it harder than it really was... LOL...

    Been running well for several months now, getting about 30mpg.
    Was at 32 with rougher tune and more CR. Had to swap heads due to a crack though and dropped a little CR.

    I'm now looking into a EEC-V ecu to run CoP. Hope to start this in another month or 2.
  4. Thanks for the help, a buddy here at work has a TB from a 99 4.6, if it'll work I'll probably grab it from him
  5. The 4.6 tbody doesnt have the provision for an IAC, theres is located on the upper plenum, also it is much shorter. The reason most people use the sn95 5.0 or supercoupe throttlebody is because it maintains the same positioning for the intercooler. Since you are running a front mount its not such a huge issue, but if your looking for a cheaper alternative a fox 5.0 tb would be a better choice or even one from an explorer(65mm).
  6. well i got the motor mostly torn down, but a friend was helping me and tapped one of the pistons out of the bottom, and now its stuck. any advice? laso been installing the amp and am having trouble, think its a bad ground. hopefully have that straightened up today
  7. Yikes, never heard of anyone going out the bottom before. Why did you opt not to take them out the top? Not sure what to say about getting that thing out of there, maybe a rubber mallet and some very gentle massaging.
  8. with 302/351's you can tap them out the bottom, which is what he's used to. i got the other 3 out of the top. and yeah, im afraid of now scratching the cylinder walls, or worse. Would cutting the rings off then sliding it out be ok?
  9. ok, got the piston out. the only way it was going to happen was for me to cut the rings off. tried to compress them and tap it out, and it just wasn't going to happen. now i need to measure them and order replacements and a gasket kit. and this is going to sound a bit ignorant, but they look a bit burnt. is this normal?

  10. ok, after spending nearly 45 minutes on the phone with Matt over at Kotzur racing today, im gonna take the head down to them to have the port/polish and machining done. im now debating between the Esslinger 2277 and the Boport 2.1 cam's. i have much more confidence in their work than my local shop, ad he specializes in the 2.3's. with a complete magnaflux, teardown, port and polish, machining, installation and testing its going to be at about $1500. a bit more than i wanted to spend right now, but if your gonna do it, better do it right the first time. going to measure the cylinders this weekend and inspect the pistons more thoroughly, then order the re-ring kit and most likely an oil pump. while im in there i may as well replace it.
  11. If the cylinder ridges were tall enough to give you all that trouble getting the pistons out, then the block likely needs to be bored and that means new pistons. 87-89 octane?! That's not going to cut it if you want any kind of power out of the engine; even a stock one is going to pull timing all the time in response to knock. There are two reasons I don't put 93 in my SVO: it's only available at one station and its $6.999/gal.
  12. gotcha. im new to the whole turbo-gas engine world. im a big diesel guy, and just sold off my last project: a twin-turbo 5.9 Cummins. so 93 octane, i can live with that. and the ridges really weren't that bad, a few small taps and they came out fine. and correct me if im wrong, but a small bore usually just requires new rings, not pistons.
  13. The carbon build up between the primary and secondary rings looks a little excessive, and sense you already have the engine torn down it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and bore it .010 or even .020 over with new pistons and rings. These 2.3 can take a lot more than that and I figure you might as well put together a "brand new" engine as to just freshing up an old engine. Just what I would do if I were in your shoes.
  14. Pistons are going to set you back 200-400+ dollars. If you bore it be prepared for the expense of forged pistons.
  15. and thats my problem, im not looking to buy new pistons, its seriously not in the budget. the head is already setting me back a bit more than anticipated. but thats the name of the game. but pistons are a bit too much right now. im going to grab a cleaner kit, clean the ever-loving hell out of them, and then re-assess

    anyone know what the groove sizes are, also what the best solution to use is?
  16. just dropped the head off at Kotzur racing, now im just waiting to head bacl from Bo so i can order that kit and get it shipped to the shop
  17. Nice. Hopefully it is smooth sailing from here on out.
  18. hopefully, we'll see. decided that im probably gong to go full Stinger exhaust as well. going to start cleaning the pistons this coming week, been prety busy recently. also think i sourced a Ranger AC condenser. next step is to start fabbing the turbo feed and rain lines. im not a fan of spending the amount of Money that Stinger sells theirs for. i just need to find the sizes of the ports and such of the IHI and on the block