1992 LX Build thread!

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Bansheeman6100, Mar 20, 2011.

  1. well just replaced the fan on hers, and same issue- radiatir fan does not come on at all. so i have another damn IRCM or controller to track down and fix/replace
  2. well after a long and very busy summer, ive got some more work done. i picked up a 2001 Cummins and have been having fun with that recently.but
    i tore apart the IRCM, and tested all the components. the Relay tested good, but found what seemed like a failure farther down the line in the controller. so i bought a new IRCM and installed it, along with a new starter and cut out the old transmission lines today. next, and hopefully last up is to replace the front struts. and does anyone know if i will need to remove the wheels to do so?

    and after replacing the IRCM, i turned the air on, and the fan did not kick on, so im not sure if it fixed the issue yet.
  3. ALSO, found some parts on CL i may pick up.

    $350: built big valve head
    $250: rebuilt factory turbo head
    $80: dis-assembeled bottom end with turbo pistons

    i was thinking of grabbing the big valve head and pistons. then, in theory all i would need for a turbo swap would be the turbo and piping, computer, and random other small parts
  4. Good evening, I am Thomas, I will be going through your post here looking for ideas as I am going to rebuild and restore the 1993 convertible Mustang I just pick up for my Daughter. It has the 2.3 engine w/ auto transmission which I just rebuilt myself :) for a first auto trans rebuild :) I did great as it works. just a could minor adjustment on it now and some inter.... restoration and paint she will be a Beautiful car for my Daughter.

    Question who would your venders be for you parts as I will be looking for good quality with good pricing.

    Any help would be appreciated
  5. If you can get the entire rotating assembly instead of just the pistons on the cheap do it. The turbo rotating assembly has beefier rod journals that can handle more stress. It will all bolt right into a non turbo block although on a non turbo block you need to drill the oil return, the spot on the block is allready there. Thats a great deal on the big valve head, I rarely see them go less than 500.

  6. hey glad to see you are back....been busy myself - getting ready to paint my stang
  7. i'll see what all is included with the "un-assembled lower block" all he specifically mentioned was pistons. and im debating between the big valve and regular rebuilt now, if i pick the parts up. i've been wanting to go turbo, but at the same time i really dont want to pull the engine out to do so.
  8. wow, congrats man! yeah, between the new truck and a promotion in the Guard that has been keeping me pretty busy i just havent had time. also: the 105ish degrees for the last 2 months doesnt help motivate me either

  9. i HEAR YA ON THAT!!!!

    Put my '93 in Black primer a month ago, found out that spraying in the hot afternoon causes problems with the sprayer. Hoping to paint the car over the holiday weekend. Still trying to decided on color - down to British Racing Green or a Darker Blue. Leaning on the green at the moment.
  10. if i ever re-painted mine anyhti8ng other than the Bimini Blue that it is, it would be Sonic Blue. and heres more info on the heads the guy sent me. ALSO: my damn lug nuts are seized on, can i swap the front struts with the wheels on?

    "Both the rebuilt head and modefied big valve head have never been installed and both are 88 t bird Turbo d port heads the big valve head has a roller ranger cam and lifter set . The big valves are stainless steel. The other is stock valves with new valve seats.
    im kinda tempted at that price. see if i can get it all for $400
  11. well she started right up, and the fan now works! but heard a knocking sound, will diagnose that farther tomorrow. also tried to swap the struts, but need a larger set of open end wrenches, so will mess with that tomorrow as well

    ETA well, hoping that knocking sound is just a stuck lifter that will come loose after some driving. and cant get the struts off, gonna go pick up a impact and see if i can get it loose with that.

    and is there a way to adjust the pedal heights? the clutch sits the highest, followed by brake and gas pedal
  12. if it's a lifter ticking/rattle noise - it'll go away with a little run time, lifter has drained and will pump up eventually - sometimes it'll take a few miles to get it gone - just be easy on the RPMs.

    Not sure on adjustment of pedal heights. i know the clutch and brake are even on mine
  13. yeah, i ticking/knocking sound. and i figured it was a stuck or dry lifter
  14. SUCCESS!!!! spent the day wrapping things up. got the struts swapped, and the rest of the odds and ends tied/bolted up, and took her for a drive! the ticking has gone away as well! gonna order a few little interior replacement parts and start looking for someone to do some bodywork/paint now.

    BUT, there are a few issues i need to work out.

    the speedometer isnt working. im sure theres a connection i must have missed, or messed up. anyone have a pic of what the connector looks like? i did replace the speedo gear in the transmission, any thoughts?

    and the temp gauge is not working as well. and the fan kicks on with the AC, but i can not tell if it is kicking on at operating temp. i have a feeling it isnt. which of the probes feeds the temp gauge and which feeds for the fan?

    and when shifting it seems like the accelerator sticks a bit, not sure where or at what point it getting hung up


    and heres a picture of the pedal issue. im gonna order an adjustable clutch cable that will hopefully help. but most adjustable cables specify GT or Cobra only. are there any, or will they work with the 2.3? and should i possibly just get a firewall adjuster?

    Attached Files:

  15. use a FWA.The 5.0 cable isnt compatible with the 2.3 linkage. been there and done that with my last 2.3 t5 swap. I ended up using a stock 2.3 cable, FWA, and triple hook quad. I could have gotten away without the FWA, but it came with the quadrant so I used it to fine tune my pedal.
  16. the engagement is fine, i just want to fine tune the pedal. so the FWA sounds perfect.
  17. Temp gauge sending unit is located on the drivers side back of the block - right near the oil sending unit. it is very possible you knocked it off while doing the swap - as it is right there near the clutch stuff.

    As for speedo- number of things it could be - but gear should e-clip on end of cable and slide in and bolt down smooth. I would think that the cable should be the same from auto to manual - i know gears are different.
  18. i actually replaced that sensor, i'll check and make sure that it is still connected. and i believe the speedo cable is the same, i just changed the gear and didnt notice any issues when re-installing it. so the sensor in the heater hose is the one for the fan to kick on at operating temperature?
  19. Yes - the sending unit in the heater is for the fan - the one in the block is gauge only. check to see if its connected. Other thing is when you replaced it - did you get the sending unit for gauge or fan controller or idiot light. if connected and its an idiot light or fan - it'll read cold till it's hot (or hot enough to turn on fan) and then peg the gauge. You can check gauge movement by grounding wire and turning key on. gauge should move instantly. if so, then you know the sending unit is bad or the wrong one.
  20. i replaced the one on the block. it looked a bit differnet than stock, but it fit and the connection was the same. i still have the stock one i think, i'll try to find it. and we couldnt get the one in the hose out of the housing, so we tested it and it tested good.