I've seen this a few times. I'm surprised no one asked to pull codes. You should attempt a start and pull codes before disconnecting the battery.
You did a tune up and then no start ? Put a second ground from the engine to the battery ( can use jumper cables ) and see what you get.
Check the pick up underneath the rotor button plate. It should look like plastic and not powdery. That thing reads the windows on the round plate under the rotor button and controls the injector firing. The top could be sending spark to the cylinders but the injector timing could be off. The PIP should also be secure and not move around if touched with a screw driver tip. Ether should've started it in this situation which leads me to believe the timing is off. Do the dots on the crank gear and cam gear sit right by each other ? The distributor could also be 180° out. That would mean pulling the distributor and turning the rotor 180°.
There's a ground to the fender apron between the battery and the coil ( black with white stripe ). Make sure its clean and tight. Also check the connector in the black plastic thingy on that wire. It's the computer ground.
If you have fuel, spark, compression, and good ECU then the car should start.
I'd start with the basics. Remove number 1 spark plug. Use a screwdriver lightly placed in the spark plug hole. ( a plastic straw is a safer tool for this ). Rotate the engine with a ratchet until you feel the piston come up to the very top. Since the timing cover is off look at the dots. They should be pointing at each other. If they aren't at each other, and the cam dot is up top, it's not top dead center. Rotate came till dots line up and check for piston at its highest point. Remove the cap and the rotor should be pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire location. It does matter where the plugs are on the cap. There is only one correct spot for the number 1 plug wire. Rotor spins counter clockwise. Check HO firing order counter clockwise from the number one position.