I have a 1993 Mustang GT that starts fine, idles fine, and revs fine, but when I try to drive in 1st or reverse, the engine quickly dies.
I made a video and here are some notes:
0:22 - Just revving to show it seems ok.
0:45 - Shift to first and try driving the car forward (engine dies)
1:05 - 1:25 - Idle is bouncing around (maybe because I recently unplugged battery?)
1:40 - Attempt 2 at driving forward
1:56 - Attempt 3, rev higher and drive forward
2:03 - Attempt 4, you get the idea.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VnK82dyWDM
Here are my mods:
1. Explorer intake (non-EGR version). I drilled and tapped runner 5 for ACT sensor.
2. Removed EGR valve from intake with a delete plate (https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/TFS-51500075_xl.jpg), and the associated delete plug for the EGR connector
3. Removed EGR Vacuum Regulator
4. Removed TAD/TAB solenoids
5. Removed most vacuum lines on passenger side. Only lines there now are the big A/C line that comes from the main tree, then that branches into the firewall for A/C, and there is another vacuum line going to the passenger wheel well (not sure what it is).
6. Smog pump delete
7. Removed clutch safety switch
8. 24 lb. injectors
9. MAF calibrated for 24 lb. injectors
My check engine codes are (my comments in parentheses):
34 O,R,C Canister or EGR valve control circuit or EVP voltage high (either my EGR delete plug isn't working, or leaving the EGR vacuum regulator unplugged is causing this)
67 O,R,C Neutral Drive Switch fault, switch circuit open / Air conditioner on during self-test (Probably from #7?)
81 O Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault / air injection diverter (TAD/TAB removal and leaving connectors unplugged?)
82 O Air diverter solenoid circuit fault or supercharger bypass circuit fault (TAD/TAB removal and leaving connectors unplugged?)
84 O,R EGR control circuit (Could be caused by EGR delete plug not working?)
Can anyone give me some advice as to what I should do? I checked the timing with the spout removed and set it to about 11 degrees, I set the idle, I replaced my TPS and made sure it reads 0.95. I cleaned the IAC a short time ago.
I made a video and here are some notes:
0:22 - Just revving to show it seems ok.
0:45 - Shift to first and try driving the car forward (engine dies)
1:05 - 1:25 - Idle is bouncing around (maybe because I recently unplugged battery?)
1:40 - Attempt 2 at driving forward
1:56 - Attempt 3, rev higher and drive forward
2:03 - Attempt 4, you get the idea.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VnK82dyWDM
Here are my mods:
1. Explorer intake (non-EGR version). I drilled and tapped runner 5 for ACT sensor.
2. Removed EGR valve from intake with a delete plate (https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/TFS-51500075_xl.jpg), and the associated delete plug for the EGR connector
3. Removed EGR Vacuum Regulator
4. Removed TAD/TAB solenoids
5. Removed most vacuum lines on passenger side. Only lines there now are the big A/C line that comes from the main tree, then that branches into the firewall for A/C, and there is another vacuum line going to the passenger wheel well (not sure what it is).
6. Smog pump delete
7. Removed clutch safety switch
8. 24 lb. injectors
9. MAF calibrated for 24 lb. injectors
My check engine codes are (my comments in parentheses):
34 O,R,C Canister or EGR valve control circuit or EVP voltage high (either my EGR delete plug isn't working, or leaving the EGR vacuum regulator unplugged is causing this)
67 O,R,C Neutral Drive Switch fault, switch circuit open / Air conditioner on during self-test (Probably from #7?)
81 O Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault / air injection diverter (TAD/TAB removal and leaving connectors unplugged?)
82 O Air diverter solenoid circuit fault or supercharger bypass circuit fault (TAD/TAB removal and leaving connectors unplugged?)
84 O,R EGR control circuit (Could be caused by EGR delete plug not working?)
Can anyone give me some advice as to what I should do? I checked the timing with the spout removed and set it to about 11 degrees, I set the idle, I replaced my TPS and made sure it reads 0.95. I cleaned the IAC a short time ago.