Thought I followed the checklist well. I confirmed what the checklist asked and moved on accordingly. Spark at distributor, check. Spark at plug 1 wire, check (with test light). Starter fluid, no go. Checklist says computer or timing at this point, continued. Fuel pressure, check (new pump). Injectors getting power, check (only tested one). Step 6 mentions failed IAB, though pressing throttle 1/4 way and starting didn't work. Replaced anyway, no go. Since plug 1 wire showed no spark until I used inline tester, replaced coil. Still no go. Should I have seen spark while holding plug wire near block? Perhaps spark after distributor is too weak to ignite but strong enough to light up tester? Popped distributor cap off to look for moisture but didn't mess with rotation. It isn't 180. No moisture on plug 1 but I'll check the rest. Would moisture on one (or more) plugs keep it from even trying to start? Pump runs for about 2 sec after key on.Ok but seriously folks, when working the checklist you gotta do it step by step. Don't guess, you waste time and money (you already wasted you money on the accel coil you bought, chinee junk)
If you have spark then it would have at least tried to start on starting fluid.
IAB would not keep the car from starting.
There is also the possibility you damaged the maf but it would still try to start.
Back to basics:
If the distributor was removed check to make sure it is in the right place not 180* out.
Are the plugs wet, you do have regular copper plugs not some triple core plutonium tipped space plugs.
Fuel pressure appears to be good.
If the computer is communicating with the code reader it likely is ok.
When you turn the key to the on position the fuel pump should run for up to 3 seconds then stop, if it continues to run then there may be a computer issue.