Progress Thread 1993 New to Me

Black1987

my wife Bedazzled my input shaft
15 Year Member
Jan 9, 2011
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So, I sold my 1993 coupe and bought what “is” supposed to a 97k original mile hatch.

It’s has a few dings and paint chips but drove okay until a recent grocery trip has plagued it with problems that I’ll try to collate in here.

Plans was to keep it stock, but the car gods keep throwing wrenches and codes at me.

First pictures:

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Now the “To do list”

1. Tachometer has decided to go full send and no return. @General karthief is providing me hope on the matter. I’ll also try to see if it’s possible to repair depending on sequence of events if not.

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2. Seats do not lock and @Mustang5L5 has provided direction to fix

3. As of tonight, verify the clutch cable is functioning correctly and/or plan on a clutch replacement. ***More to this story***

4. Airbag light blinks 3 then 4 times. Have to look into that on the search function. Also now the low coolant light(coolant is burped and topped off)....which may be Tach related.

5. Low priority, Door pins. Any lesson learned here tips welcomed.....also someone repainted over the orignal Calypso Green color
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Last post for now...the grocery trip mentioned above which requires getting on the highway.

The other night my wife and my buddy's wife took the car on a routine I forgot X ingredient.

Normally she takes her car, but Foxbody plus nice weather why not; shouldn’t be a problem..........

Well I hadn’t fully vetted the car yet, but it’s a short trip (3 miles).

So she pulled on the highway and was going into 3rd and the car would not stop accelerating...it actually hit the limiter ( I hope the limiter works still) and wouldn’t go in gear, but she remembered just turn it off.

Coasted to a stop, called me. Had her check the throttle cable, clutch cable, etc.No smoking gun.except the tach now is locked up.

Car sat for a few days until the rain finally went away until today.

Do a check over all the fluids/ cables. No glitter or milk in the oil. Send it

Take it for a drive to try to replicate it and this happened. She said the pedal felt stuck.


View: https://youtu.be/RPPKh2ymDj8


After feeling it and looking at the video. I’m a dam moron.

Then to top it off, while in the video, when I would push to WOT it was like it was downshifting in an automatic and started to smell a hot smell.

I pulled over and let it cool.Goes into first, but then revs/but moves in all other gears.

Now the fun begins!

Fixing all the things that break in the process fixing the ones mentioned already.

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I have the same problem with the exact same floor mats my plan is to take it into a upholstery shop and have it shortened. Also add some clips on the floor to keep it secure
 
Is that the Frost Metallic color? My buddy had a GT that color a while back and it sure was a different kind of color in person.

I'd swap the tach out for one from another cluster.. It's an airbag car so you'll need to find one from a 90-93 cluster to use. Also don't use one from a four cylinder cluster (6k red line) although it would fit and function it'll be inaccurate and add about two thousand rpm to the actual readings.

That door pin is toast.. you can see the bushing hanging down in the pic. They suck to replace. Put a jack and jack stand under the door and you'll have to cut the pin. I used a Dremel and quality blades. You'll have to then slide the door back enough so you can pull the old bushings out and tap new ones in. Move door back together and drop new pins in.. it's simple but tough do to area size to work with. Second set of hands to steady the door is a must or use your engine hoist if you have one.

The stuck throttle issue with the mat has been something almost every fox owners encounted eventually lol
 
I have the same problem with the exact same floor mats my plan is to take it into a upholstery shop and have it shortened. Also add some clips on the floor to keep it secure
After looking at the video...I realized he put a passenger side floor mat on top of the driver side.

Is that the Frost Metallic color? My buddy had a GT that color a while back and it sure was a different kind of color in person.

I'd swap the tach out for one from another cluster.. It's an airbag car so you'll need to find one from a 90-93 cluster to use. Also don't use one from a four cylinder cluster (6k red line) although it would fit and function it'll be inaccurate and add about two thousand rpm to the actual readings.

That door pin is toast.. you can see the bushing hanging down in the pic. They suck to replace. Put a jack and jack stand under the door and you'll have to cut the pin. I used a Dremel and quality blades. You'll have to then slide the door back enough so you can pull the old bushings out and tap new ones in. Move door back together and drop new pins in.. it's simple but tough do to area size to work with. Second set of hands to steady the door is a must or use your engine hoist if you have one.

The stuck throttle issue with the mat has been something almost every fox owners encounted eventually lol

I thought it was a Frost Metallic until I pulled the VIN. I had a 1993 coupe that color and this has a lot of metallic flakes in it.

Looking to source the tachometer and/or cluster

And the door pin is going to be a weekend thing once I get the clutch sorted out

Thanks for the tips. I need to source a dremel
 
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Well when I took the car out last. It was not accelerating in any gear but first.

Got it home and thought maybe the clutch cable was stretched out based how high the disengagement was.

Swapped it and it even worse now.

Went with a Steeda cable but seems to be the same Taiwanese company that makes all the rest except for the MM.

So ordering a clutch and flywheel soon.

Any recommendations?



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If the car is going to stay mostly stock a regular parts store clutch will work fine....but buy a Motorcraft throw out bearing. I know for a fact the ones from Advance Auto ( LUK ) are good until you start modding. Spec Clutches are good and have different stages for different power levels. I'm kinda partial to McLeod but they cost a bit. I've seen them stand up to crazy abuse in a few different makes and models.
 
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If the car is going to stay mostly stock a regular parts store clutch will work fine....but buy a Motorcraft throw out bearing. I know for a fact the ones from Advance Auto ( LUK ) are good until you start modding. Spec Clutches are good and have different stages for different power levels. I'm kinda partial to McLeod but they cost a bit. I've seen them stand up to crazy abuse in a few different makes and models.
I have used the advance auto brand before and had good luck. The problem is their flywheels are heavyyyy.

I can get the clutch and flywheel for about $150 from local shop, but the piece parts add up to within $80-50 to these kits.

Looks like everything is stock.
So adding in the parts
Motorcraft pilot bearing and throw out bearing
steel retainer
Possible fork and pivot replacement

Everything gets close in price. Seems the complaints of most kits are the flywheel and throw out bearing

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I don't like the steel pressed in aluminum bearing retainers. I've had a couple customers that actually had the steel sleeve come out. I got the steel one from Hanlon years ago. Also, I recently installed one for a customer that was rough machined...it caused a zipper like noise when pressing the clutch. The one from Hanlon was smooth and works flawlessly still.

Call Hanlon Motorsports and they can put a kit together for you. They know everything that works for what you need. Seems like you'd save over buying thing seperate.

Flywheel weight can help with engagement due to rotating mass. This is why aluminum flywheels usually don't work well in street cars.
 
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I don't like the steel pressed in aluminum bearing retainers. I've had a couple customers that actually had the steel sleeve come out. I got the steel one from Hanlon years ago. Also, I recently installed one for a customer that was rough machined...it caused a zipper like noise when pressing the clutch. The one from Hanlon was smooth and works flawlessly still.

Call Hanlon Motorsports and they can put a kit together for you. They know everything that works for what you need. Seems like you'd save over buying thing seperate.

Flywheel weight can help with engagement due to rotating mass. This is why aluminum flywheels usually don't work well in street cars.
I’ll look into. Seems their retainer manufacturer is the same Motivo at first glance.



Also looks like my wife Bedazzled my input shaft
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The acceleration problem is from your car’s automatic child safety protocols. The California version of the A9L computer limits power to only gentle driving when anyone under the age of 17 is in the vehicle. I had this feature removed when I replaced the old leather seat inserts with easy to clean vinyl.
It looks like you will have helpers for years.


Well when I took the car out last. It was not accelerating in any gear but first.

Got it home and thought maybe the clutch cable was stretched out based how high the disengagement was.

Swapped it and it even worse now.

Went with a Steeda cable but seems to be the same Taiwanese company that makes all the rest except for the MM.

So ordering a clutch and flywheel soon.

Any recommendations?



BD2C187C-7441-497E-AC5A-C9EB43B354BD.jpeg




BD0BC8AE-AAF4-4E86-B7F6-57A69B4B4F69.jpeg
 
The acceleration problem is from your car’s automatic child safety protocols. The California version of the A9L computer limits power to only gentle driving when anyone under the age of 17 is in the vehicle. I had this feature removed when I replaced the old leather seat inserts with easy to clean vinyl.
It looks like you will have helpers for years.
First I have heard of this. I have a few computers A9Ls, A9P, and A3M on shelf. Might swapped that out if that is the case. How do you tell if it was a Cali car?
 
I need to find out how to access the emoticons here on iOS 14.1 after the site upgrade. (The button is grayed out no matter what I seem to hit first.) I was joking about the computer feature, but not your help. My helpers think they have it settled who is getting what car when I am done with them.

First I have heard of this. I have a few computers A9Ls, A9P, and A3M on shelf. Might swapped that out if that is the case. How do you tell if it was a Cali car?
 
I need to find out how to access the emoticons here on iOS 14.1 after the site upgrade. (The button is grayed out no matter what I seem to hit first.) I was joking about the computer feature, but not your help. My helpers think they have it settled who is getting what car when I am done with them.
I was about to say. There was a guy in our avionics group that installed an aftermarket governor and data logger on his kids cars, but those were OBDII cars.


I know on my old focus(2015) it had a similar feature and i limited my wife’s key to a speed 65 mph and no seat belt = no radio.

She called....somethings wrong with the car
 
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A few years ago my buddy had a Sea Doo watercraft I believe it was a supercharged 3cyl.
Anyway it had 2 keys , one was for going fast and the other was for ludicrous speed !
The Boss Mustang had a track/race key as well as did Bugatti Veyron
 
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