Andre6

Member
Nov 24, 2021
8
2
13
25
Bronx
Hi all, new here. I’ve recently just got a 95’ GT 5 speed and I’ve been having a few issues with the car once in a while. I haven’t got the time yet to start playing around with things to check first, so I’m here hoping I could get some good opinions on what to check initially. I’m not that good with cars that much yet, but I’m hoping to! I apologize in advance if I make a mistake describing some things. Thank you all in advance

1) while cruising in 5th, the RPMs would drop to idle but not stall (this doesn’t happen so often now). However, if I’m in 2nd slowly accelerating, the RPMs would drop to idle and stall (this has been happening a little more frequently, not all the time yet though).

2) there’s this slight grinding/crunching noise that sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car, near the rear. This happens when I’m decelerating or braking, and it pretty much happens a good amount of the time. I’m unsure if these could be the rear brakes since the pad and rotors have been replaced. it also makes that noise when just slowing down with no brakes applied.

3) once in a while the car struggles to turn over and start. The starter is 3 years old and the battery is pretty new. It feels like it wants to crank all the way, but just won’t get quite there. If I leave it alone for about 10-20 min it will turn over.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Check for codes
Check the condition of your charging system, battery, cables and alternator.
Check the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Oh, and check the air in that right rear tire. May be a little low, remember to change the air in the tires at least once a year.
 
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WhiteCobra95

5 Year Member
May 2, 2006
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On the slow cranking when hot issue, it sounds like the starter is going bad. Slow or no cranking when hot is the tell-tail sign of a dying starter motor. What starter was put in? Name brand or parts store?
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
15 Year Member
Aug 26, 2004
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The starting issue could be the starter, but it depends on when the issue happens. Does the car start easily when cold, but won't start after you've been driving for a while? If that's the case, you can also check the cap and rotor on the distributor for corrosion and wear. I had that happen on a 95 GT I used to own. Had the car towed, and was real embarrassed when the mechanic said it was just a corroded cap and rotor.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
22,466
8,082
203
polk county florida
Don't discount those weeny factory cables, they can cause slow crank when hot problems that burn up starters, I replace them along with the starter.
JMO
 
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addermk2

5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2009
308
88
49
Somebody had a little too much turkey this year, or was it bull?
Silliness aside, tire air pressure will drop approximately 1psi for every 10° drop in ambient temp. Which is why the dealerships get bombarded by "My TPMS light is on" questions every fall/early winter.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
22,466
8,082
203
polk county florida
TPMS was developed for stupid/lazy motorists, they are not even motorists, don't get me started, I've stopped telling people they have a low tire because they don't believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn
 
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KRUISR

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn
Maybe we need to change your avatar pic ...

Here are some suggestions...

1l4y5e.jpg StatlerandWaldorf(2).jpg
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
22,466
8,082
203
polk county florida
Maybe we need to change your avatar pic ...

Here are some suggestions...

1l4y5e.jpg StatlerandWaldorf(2).jpg
Nope, mine was custom created for me by a world famous artist and janitor that insisted on anonymity and would be an insult to change it.
now go home, I'm out of whiskey and ammunition.
 
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kilwei

New Member
Dec 24, 2021
2
1
1
31
New York
Hi all, new here. I’ve recently just got a 95’ GT 5 speed and I’ve been having a few issues with the car once in a while. I haven’t got the time yet to start playing around with things to check first, so I’m here hoping I could get some good opinions on what to check initially. I’m not that good with cars that much yet, but I’m hoping to! I apologize in advance if I make a mistake describing some things. Thank you all in advance

1) while cruising in 5th, the RPMs would drop to idle but not stall (this doesn’t happen so often now). However, if I’m in 2nd slowly accelerating, the RPMs would drop to idle and stall (this has been happening a little more frequently, not all the time yet though).

2) there’s this slight grinding/crunching noise that sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car, near the rear. This happens when I’m decelerating or braking, and it pretty much happens a good amount of the time. I’m unsure if these could be the rear brakes since the pad and rotors have been replaced. it also makes that noise when just slowing down with no brakes applied
applinked.

3) once in a while the car struggles to turn over and start. The starter is 3 years old and the battery is pretty new. It feels like it wants to crank all the way, but just won’t get quite there. If I leave it alone for about 10-20 min it will turn over.
It's nice to see another 95 owner. I might be wrong but I'm thinkingit could be you're ignition module. It will die on you when it's at normal running temp.,and then when it sits for a period of time to cooldown, then you can start it again. this happened on my 88 I had. That's my opinion, but be patient for others to run something by you and then take it to a machanic or do it you're self.
 
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manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
1,406
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You better jack it up and take a look at the rear end bearings both axle and case bearings inspect
You need to have the starter checked for amps
CheckerPepZone used to do it free
The starter should hit about 260-280 amps to pull in they call it then crank at around 180 amps
Your battery should also be checked to see what voltage it maintains while under the big load of a starter
At a 350 amp load the battery should stay above 10.2volts. If it drops to 9.6v or so you need a new battery
Your stalling problem could be just about anything
If you just got the car and have no baseline.. Start one by replacing both the stator in the distributor and the TFI module with Ford parts
Stator is bitchy need to mark and pull gear and press or beat the shaft out
Easy for me difficult for some impossible for others
Good luck
 
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manicmechanic007

Mustang Master
Sep 26, 2017
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I mark the distributor gear and shaft with a bastard file
That's because the roll pin hole is drilled slightly off center in the shaft
The gear and shaft need to be re indexed together correctly or you damage the roll pin (still works)(if installed wrong)
Go easy take your time find someone with a press
I beat the shafts and bushings out too with a brass hammer and a punch for years before getting a press
Sometimes the bushing will come out of the distributor that's okay just press or beat it back in
Clean the shaft up with emory cloth
 
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Andre6

Member
Nov 24, 2021
8
2
13
25
Bronx
Andre6,
Did you get it running good now then?
On the slow cranking when hot issue, it sounds like the starter is going bad. Slow or no cranking when hot is the tell-tail sign of a dying starter motor. What starter was put in? Name brand or parts store?
It actually cranks fine when the temperature is warm. Usually it’s when the weather drops to anything below 40 degrees.
TPMS was developed for stupid/lazy motorists, they are not even motorists, don't get me started, I've stopped telling people they have a low tire because they don't believe it or don't care.
now get off my lawn
I’m not going to lie, that was the problem I checked and the back left tire was low on air, then the noise stopped. Can’t believe I didn’t check that in the first place
 
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Andre6

Member
Nov 24, 2021
8
2
13
25
Bronx
I mark the distributor gear and shaft with a bastard file
That's because the roll pin hole is drilled slightly off center in the shaft
The gear and shaft need to be re indexed together correctly or you damage the roll pin (still works)(if installed wrong)
Go easy take your time find someone with a press
I beat the shafts and bushings out too with a brass hammer and a punch for years before getting a press
Sometimes the bushing will come out of the distributor that's okay just press or beat it back in
Clean the shaft up with emory cloth
I haven’t done that yet specifically, but checking it real quick I’ve noticed that the cap and rotor was getting slightly wet inside. Also the TFI coil (I think that’s what it is) is slightly corroded as well. Will definitely try that if I could figure out how it’s getting wet inside in the first place
 
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