The starting issue could be the starter, but it depends on when the issue happens. Does the car start easily when cold, but won't start after you've been driving for a while? If that's the case, you can also check the cap and rotor on the distributor for corrosion and wear. I had that happen on a 95 GT I used to own. Had the car towed, and was real embarrassed when the mechanic said it was just a corroded cap and rotor.
The starter is slightly new so I’m pretty sure it isn’t that. But I’ve noticed actually that it has a hard time starting in cold weather, warm weather not really. With the cap and rotor I have noticed it’s been getting wet inside, as well as the TFI coil being slightly corroded. I’ve cleaned the coil and it’s been slightly better, but I’m still trying to figure out how the hell im getting water in there in the first place. Thank you for this though, definitely helped me out
 
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Andre6,
Did you get it running good now then?
One of the only real problems I’m having is still the rpm dropping to idle, I’d have to clutch in and save it from stalling. but this doesn’t happen too often now. Every once in a while. The other problem ive noticed, is that if I try to accelerate in 5th gear to anything above 80mph, it gets real loud (the faster I go). If I let off the gas going 90+, the noise will go away, but once I touch the throttle the noise comes back on.
 
Sometimes what you think is water or condensation in the cap is actually acid created by the 40kv spark
We used to just wipe it out or blow it out and replace all the ignition secondary parts at 60k mile intervals
 
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Sometimes what you think is water or condensation in the cap is actually acid created by the 40kv spark
We used to just wipe it out or blow it out and replace all the ignition secondary parts at 60k mile intervals
what do you recommend personally? And if I should replace all the secondary ignition parts, what should I buy to replace them? Sorry, still new to some car parts lol
 
Borg (not the Star Trek ones) and Echlin (NAPA) have been premium aftermarket electrical parts. Not that we know who’s parts are being reboxed by the major companies these days, but Motorcraft or those brands should be safe.
 
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The moisture was the reason ford used those rubber boots that cover the distributor. MSD Caps used to have a big problem with condensation in the distributor caps. Had something to do with that little breather cap installed on the distributor cap.
 
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