Engine 1995 gt cam selection

rockyracoon

10 Year Member
Nov 23, 2005
874
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49
margate NJ
So im getting a set of aluminum heads from an ebay seller. he says that they are custom made on a CNC and his own castings.

ordered 1.6 rockers, have 410s installed, gt-40 (non ported) upper and lower and CAI but stock T/B and mass air for now. So will I be able to run a B cam without a tune or is there a more friendly cam for the stock 94-95 computer. Without breaking the bank. hearing good things about the steeda-19 grind for 95 gt. would crane offer anything that would work ?
 
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we have to know the specs for the springs in order to help you pick a cam out, it cant be too radical as the 94-95 ecu dont play as well as the fox ones do. The last thing you want is to run a cam that is too big for the spring package on your new heads.

Also a link to the heads or ebay seller would be useful for some of us shopping for parts ;)
 
we have to know the specs for the springs in order to help you pick a cam out,

Not to mention you need to know the size of the valves to determine if there will be any PTV issues with the max lift of specific cams. I guess you'd also need to know if the head was a canted head.

What good is it to recommend a cam that smashes a valve into a piston or overwhelms the springs on your heads.
 
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Nothing wrong with the B cam. It's just outdated but still works. Idle sounds mint, makes decent power but likes to be revved to do so. 3.73s are a must.

I had a TFS1 sitting on my shelf but ultimately decided it wasn't the correct cam for what I wanted to do.

Cams really need to be the last item selected when putting together a combo and all too often then are picked for the wrong reason. A street combo in a heavy AOD(e) vert won't want the same cam as a lightweight notch built for the drag strip.

That's really why more info is needed. When I ordered my custom cam, I filled out several pages of specs. The questions get asked for a legit reason. Last thing you want is to get a cam and find it bucks like crazy as you are trying to commute in traffic with the car

Steeda #19 is actually an excellent choice for a 94-95. PTV should be ok and with only 0.480" lift I'd imagine the springs can handle it.
 
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http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=372038104093

Link to my heads. Upon initial inspection they seem well machined. No rough edges around the ports like ive heard about some other knock-offs like flow tek. Cost me $600 to my door. The seller says they are not pro comp but rather his own castings and assembly even though the listing says pro comp. He almost seemed to take exception when I made refrence to them being pro comp. Everything lines up nice so i tend to believe him. I also purchased his 1.6 stainless roller rockers with poly locks.already noticed my stock valve covers well not clear the poly locks. Or even the rockers for that matter.
 
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Well possibly with a bama chip. But im leaning towards an E cam so im gonna see how my car tolerates the cam. I installed 410 gears behind a T-45 so no issue with power curve. Plus i would like to run 4* of advance. But the more I think about it im leaning towards the mighty e-303 cam, cause lets face it a 95 vert is pretty heavy so im thinking at least I can have a radical sounding idle. Its not like im gonna be able to hang with a 4v gt no matter what cam I run. Unless I went aspirated.
 
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Yes J zim the tfs stage 1 is intriguing but im now seeing posts where 94-95 cars are surging even with that cam. I dunno maybe ill just stick with the stock ho cam for now but id hate to waste money on hardened pushrods only to need different lengths once i do go with a cam. Its just that idle I crave. Reminds me of my 69 roadrunner. 780 holley dual feed vacuum secondaries. A real eye burner with its cam but gas was like 70 cents a gallon ir less. That 383 never lost a race at front street in south philly and back in 1980 they were towing cars in to front street. Then the cops would come and open the fire hydrants so everybody would move to where e called the meadows. No traffic cause it was all factories.
 
Alphabet FRPP cams are okay, not ideal for the 94-95 ECC. Split duration cams with high LSA is really recommended.

They do make specific cams for our cars, the Steeda #19, high LSA of 115 and split duration. https://www.steeda.com/steeda-number-19-mustang-camshafts-063-0019.html

Crower 15511, this is the baby one with high LSA of 114. I ran this one on my 94GT with Supercharger, Heads, etc. and made 480HP. I used 1.72 roller rockers which increased the lift a bit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...eELqrgsR-z_rpxYpwhTXWV6BN3LAwu-YaAgutEALw_wcB

Crower 15512, bigger than the 11 and ideal with 1.6 Rockers. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...zIgUgP27WTtgm-orgLvT1Xt4ULVa7I-IaAlmjEALw_wcB

Trickflow Stage 1 has been a popular choice, I would go with the ones above before this one as the LSA is 112. It does have split duration and recommended with 1.6 rockers. https://lmr.com/item/TFS-51402000/8...Trick-Flow-Track-Heat-Stage-1-Roller-Camshaft

You can also go custom by giving Companies your specs. FTI / Ed Curtis is the most popular as his cams usually are the best. You can call Comp and Crane too. I had a custom grind Comp Cam in my 347 Stroker with high LSA for a killer idle.

Here is a list of 10 popular cams used by many Stangnet Members.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...s-combos-updated-8-21-12.665335/#post-6462796
 
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