I have a 1995 GT Convertible. It has been parked for two years. I decided it was time to fix it up and drive it again. Gas tank had been emptied(or I thought) before parking the car. So I put gas in car. Added LUCAS fuel additive, replaced battery and attempted to start. Car would not start. Reset inertia switch, still no go. Sprayed Starting fluid in throttle, car will start but only run or 10-15 seconds. No whining sound in gas tank, so apparantly fuel pump not running. So I guess that means the pump is dead, or it isn't getting power.I know from reading other post here that there could be several things that could cause this problem. I am definitely no mechanic but I was wondering(before I call the tow truck) if anyone may have any quick ideas?
1995 GT Convertible will not start
- Thread starter stricklandmike
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Adam95GT
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Check for fuel at the rails from the pump...
Listen for the pump at the back of the car...
Jumper the pump see if it runs... if so crank car and see if it will start...
If pump doesent run buy a new pump...
Change the filter regardless
Listen for the pump at the back of the car...
Jumper the pump see if it runs... if so crank car and see if it will start...
If pump doesent run buy a new pump...
Change the filter regardless
This should be in Tech.
You could have a bad CCRM, it controls power to the fuel pump. The CCRM is the black box on the bracket holding the overflow bottle in place. If Hissin pitches in, he can tell you which wires to test to see if the fuel pump is getting power.
You may also have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Check the fuel pressure at the rail, you should be at about 33 PSI at idle. If you remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, you should see 38-39 psi.
You could have a bad CCRM, it controls power to the fuel pump. The CCRM is the black box on the bracket holding the overflow bottle in place. If Hissin pitches in, he can tell you which wires to test to see if the fuel pump is getting power.
You may also have a bad fuel pressure regulator. Check the fuel pressure at the rail, you should be at about 33 PSI at idle. If you remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator, you should see 38-39 psi.
Good advice above.
If you think the pump is bad, put a test light across the FP electrical connector (in front of the tank itself). If you have power and ground there, chances are the pump is bad or the issue is inside the tank.
Check the wiring that Matt mentioned. Here's a little tech note for testing the FP
As Adam mentioned, you can permanently ground the wire going to the FP relay coil (the switching means - so you dont have to keep turning the key on and off to get the circuit to prime out). The remote ground is on the self-test connector.
Good luck.
If you think the pump is bad, put a test light across the FP electrical connector (in front of the tank itself). If you have power and ground there, chances are the pump is bad or the issue is inside the tank.
Check the wiring that Matt mentioned. Here's a little tech note for testing the FP
As Adam mentioned, you can permanently ground the wire going to the FP relay coil (the switching means - so you dont have to keep turning the key on and off to get the circuit to prime out). The remote ground is on the self-test connector.
Good luck.
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