Ok folks here is an update, bought a timing light checked the time and it’s 10 degrees TDC, headers still glowing red. So now not sureI think I found the issue, the distributor was not bolted down and I think it shifted and threw the timing off, so once I get the timing set I will update you, thanks everyone
I would think that if the timing was off that much I don't think it would idle right.Did you verify the balancer is still in the right place?
Idle is fine, next I will try removing the exhaust and see if that’s it. I will update when I can but it may be a few weeksI would think that if the timing was off that much I don't think it would idle right.
You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If there is a vacuum leak, the only vent mode that will work is the defrost. I had the same thing happen in my '95. There was a leak around the firewall mounted vacuum tree.so some minor updates, looks like i don't have a true 347, the crank is stock from the 95 and so is the harmonic balancer, so with the exception of the pistons being bored .30 over and the heads being Windsor jr 185cc cast iron heads everything else is pretty much stock that came from the 1995 originally, so im sure something here somewhere is messed up causing the over heating issue. and btw when i turn my ac own full heat full blast it just comes out the defrost vents and just blows hot air. my ac lines have pin holes in them so all the Freon all leaks out. also if anyone is in the deltona/ orlando area and wants to help me out and look at it let me know.
I've sprayed carb cleaner on every single inch of the engine/engine bay firewall, nothing has caused the rpm's to go up or rev when i have done this, if its a leak somewhere i cant find it.You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. If there is a vacuum leak, the only vent mode that will work is the defrost. I had the same thing happen in my '95. There was a leak around the firewall mounted vacuum tree.
i know for a fact cats are punched my step dad did them for a fact and i verified with him, doesnt matter what setting i have the air on it comes out of the defrosterFor clarity purposes I have a couple questions:
- When you ran the heater, did you select the panel setting (not just defrost)? If you selected other positions and the system did not change, you have a vacuum leak or the check valve is broken (located on pass. side firewall just before vac line goes through firewall). Should look something like this but likely has a mount bracket.
- When you ran heater, did engine temp come down at all? Did headers glow again?
- Based on not necessarily having all the information on the motor, I would not trust the information that the cats are punched (unless you did them yourself). I would disconnect the H-pipe at header discharge and run at idle with open headers. If they do not glow, recheck you cats, they are likely blocked somehow.