1995 vs 2002 camshaft synchronizer (Need Help)

kiddiccarus

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Ok on Wednesday I am going to have to try something. Before that I want some input from others.

LEFT picture is the 1995 and has a 3 wire connector.-----------------------------------------The Right Picture is a 2002 and has a 2 wire connector.
1995.jpg
2002.jpg


MY Dilemma

I took out the 95 engine and put in the 02. The 1995 came with a 3 wire connector and of course wont work with the 2 Wire on the 2002

The 95 Wire harness has the 3 wire connector. I cant figure out what to do here.

1. Can I lose 1 wire here and use the 2 wire connector?
2. Can I take the 93 Syncro out and use it in the 02 block?

Please give input.

Here is the connector that I have on the harness.
Cam Position Sensor 3 Wire.jpg
 
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Hoytster

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The 96' sensor is a hall effect sensor while the 02' sensor is a VR sensor. Easiest thing to do is to swap the 96' synchronizer into the 02'.

What computer are you running and I am assuming you meant a 96' explorer engine (they didn't introduce the V8 until 96')
 

kiddiccarus

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I am running the 95 Mustang computer in the 95 body with the 02 Mustang engine. These are V6 3.8L OHV

I was thinking the same thing, to place the Syncro out of the 95 into the 02 and use that. They look the same to me other than the connector and they serve the exact same function. What I was figuring that they figured a better way to run the ground on it and eliminated it from the sensor. I believe on Wednesday that is what I will do. Other than a few more connections. I am about ready to finalize the wiring soon and able to fill fluids and turn the key.
 
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Hoytster

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I am running the 95 Mustang computer in the 95 body with the 02 Mustang engine. These are V6

I was thinking the same thing, to place the Syncro out of the 95 into the 02 and use that. They look the same to me other than the connector and they serve the exact same function. What I was figuring that they figured a better way to run the ground on it and eliminated it from the sensor. I believe on Wednesday that is what I will do. Other than a few more connections. I am about ready to finalize the wiring soon and able to fill fluids and turn the key.
Oh that makes a lot more sense, my mind was stuck on the V8. That complicates things a little as IIRC there were some differences between the years on those. Just to make sure I'm on the same page then, are you swapping a OHC 4.0 V6 from a 95 with a SOHC 4.0 V6 from an 02'?

If this is the case, then I would just convert the 2 wire to 3 wire. They changed the length of the sensor in addition to the 2-wire change/ect through the years so you're safer just keeping the sensor that's in the 02' engine.
 

Hoytster

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Man, I need open my eyes today......... Sorry for the confusion.

So a 3.8 out of an 02' Mustang.

Same deal, they changed the syncronizer housing between those years though I don't know what/if there are any length differences. I believe you will be required to use the 3-wire setup on the ECU also. I'm not as knowledgeable on the V6 3.8 engines differences though, so I can't give you specifics from my experience.
 

kiddiccarus

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Its all good, I am going to use the one from the 95 to keep the ECU happy, if it cranks then we all will know that it wont matter what one you use as long as the ECU gets what it wants.

I think I will have to remove the bulb from the check engine light though LOL


At this point, I should have put a for sale sign in it and went with a 05 or better
 
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Hoytster

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Yeah the 02' to 95' conversion does make it a little more complicated. I just went through your build thread and it looks like you are getting close to getting this thing fired. It'll be worth the increase in power and reliability once it's all done.

Oh, I did find a thread on another forum that detailed this swap and he had to use the synchronizer from his 95'
 

kiddiccarus

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Update: I did swap the Syncro over. I have not started it yet.

The 02 is on the left and 1995 on the right. There is a spacer/washer under the 1995 to get it to the desired height to match where both will meet the block. From that point they seem to be exact length and other specs.

Once I figure out this fuel delivery issue I have caused. I will see if it starts fine.

20200212_101736.jpg
 

kiddiccarus

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Got off work at 3 today. Came home to make some fuel lines and see what I can do to button up the connections just to get this thing started.

It Worked. Thanks for the help in figuring this out Hoytster greatly appreciated.

Ill update the build thread with this now.
 
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kiddiccarus

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February 26, 2020

I had a few issues on the test drive so I pulled it back into the garage. One of which I believe is the synchronizer which I never properly aligned. I decided that since I have it back in the garage, I should get that done while my hands are in the area already.

I did not have the tool in the shop and that is why I just threw it in so that I could see if the 95 part would work in the 02 engine. If I had the tool back then, I would have already aligned it.

I called down to my Local AutoZone and they assured me that they had the right tool. Because they half listened on the phone and never bothered to look inside the box to see that the 1995 V6 they have the tool for is for a 3.0 not a 3.8

AutoZone Does NOT have the tool for this

Yes/No situation here. I was able to use the tool to align the 02 synchronizer in the 95 block. BUT there is no way that these tools would work for the 95 synchronizer in the 02 block.

Peckerwood Problem gets a Peckerwood Solution.

How I found TDC: Because the 2002 Engine does not have marks on it.
  1. Remove the fan belt.
  2. Remove Cylinder #1 Spark Plug
  3. Use a Moderate length screwdriver and insert into the hole.
  4. (Use of 2 people is NOT needed but it IS helpful) If one person lays under the car (Car Elevated) and slowly turns the crank. The second person can keep a hand on the screwdriver and watch for it to go in as far as it can (Bottom End Cyl #1) and then come back out as far as it can (TDC Cyl #1). When you believe it is TDC, I suggest that you check this by turning the crank both ways to ensure you are correct, then mark it on both the block and crank for future reference.
  5. Remove Screwdriver, Replace Spark Plug, Replace Wire.
How to Make a Peckerwood Camshaft Synchronizer Tool:
  1. Find 3 credit card "Gift Cards" (4 - 1/2 Circles from each)
  2. Find a Reference Picture
  3. Find Brush on Superglue
  4. Use Trama Shears
  5. Get a Compass and measure the diameter of the circle (ID of the Camshaft Synchronizer)
  6. draw out the circle and cut, then test fit the circle.
  7. Cut a Piece of card in a rectangle that will go through the hole and extend to the center of the Synchronizer.
  8. (Eyeball Test) Here I used the picture to "Guestimate" the position the Synchronizer needs to be in when it is ready to be installed. (Pay Attention to the picture. It is shown in reverse because it is showing the inside of the tool, not from the top.)
  9. Cut the circle and sand to fit in the space where the metal half moon is not.
  10. Stick the rectangle into the hole and measure where to cut a portion off of the half circle you now have. (wash rinse repeat to desired thickness and glue it all together)
  11. As you can see, the center of that arrow goes through that opening in the front of the Synchronizer, so when you align it on the 54 degree mark, all you need to use is that piece sticking out for reference.
s-l640.jpg


Install of the Camshaft Synchronizer:

  1. With the tool on the Synchronizer toy must find the center line of the engine for your Y axis and the X axis will be the center line of the Synchronizer.
  2. Here will be the tricky part for YOU to decide what is best because the 94-95 wants you to go to the 54 degree to the right of the Y Axis, where the 96+ goes the same to the left.
  3. In my case, I am running the 1995 Computer and the 1995 Synchronizer with an 02 Engine. I am choosing to go the direction of the 1995 because that will satisfy the Synchronizer and the Computer.
  4. With that tool still on the top of the Synchronizer, Slide it into the hole and you may need to use a flashlight to get the rod into the hole for the oil pump. keep in mind that this whole housing will rotate once the gears begin to meet up and the part will not be at 54 degree when you end.
  5. Replace the retaining bolt so it wont rotate and cap the sensor.

Once I have the rest of it back together and the new clutch cable in, I will see if I was right.
2020-February-26 Louise #2.jpg
 
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wmburns

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In my case, I am running the 1995 Computer and the 1995 Synchronizer with an 02 Engine. I am choosing to go the direction of the 1995 because that will satisfy the Synchronizer and the Computer
I agree with your logic. This is the correct call for the reasons that you have outlined. The replacement engine needs to "appear" to be the same electrically to the PCM. That means sensors and wiring harness.

Good Call!
 

kiddiccarus

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Today I was able to get out there and work on her again. We replaced the Plenum gasket and re-worked all of the vacuum lines. The one that I forgot and a co-worker (Ex-Mustang Owner) found was the line under the IAC that was WIDE OPEN and sucking air like mad. Once we got all of the lines ran and the intake buttoned back down we tried to turn her over.

NOPE, Crank but no spark.......

You See when you put a wire harness on, it helps to actually tighten that bolt at the firewall so its secure.

Charged the battery, fired her up, melted some wire loom, used some zip ties, and running like a champ.

T5 Wont come out of Neutral.......... But for this thread SUCCESS!!!!!!
 
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