1997 GT - 5.4L 4v Navi Swap / Build-Up Thread

MR KROGOTH

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Visited a local pick-a-part and found this 40th Anniversary new edge 'Stang. Anyone see anything strange? Something rare, valuable and cool at the same time?

That's right! Folding mirrors in perfect shape. Snagged both for 23$ each. Found another goodie(S) inside!

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Mach 460$ rear deck box, cover, and door pods.

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Bought all this with the mirrors for 120$. What a day at the yard!!
 
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MR KROGOTH

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Next direct challenge was how I was going to make a throttle cable. Actually attemped to splice two cables together to create a cable but it wasnt very durable and broke on the first stab of the throttle. So, it was back to the junkyard to find a suitable donor for the throttle cable.

I found an early 2000's E-series van/Econoline with a 2V 5.4L engine - it is actually the perfect cable for both ends, both pedal and throttle body and a perfect length!! I paid 4$ for the cable.


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You will need to wallor out the hole where the original cable went through (it was held in by two screws) so the new one will clip into the hole and remain retained. It falls over the original pedal like the mustang cable did!

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Here's the cable installed:

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MR KROGOTH

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Next, you'll need to figure out the cooling system. I went through countless hoses and variations of twisting to make it easy for you guys and girls - You can reuse the original lower radiator hose and modify the split for the water return outlet on the thermostat housing. The upper radiator hose can actually be easily obtained through any parts store - Buy a lower radiator hose for a 1985 Mustang (Foxbody) with a 3.8L engine. It has the correctly sized ends for both the thermostat and radiator, and curves PERFECTLY to clear everything in the way. Here's how it looks! It's a Gates 21262 hose.


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Next, we will be looking into the tee to the backside of the thermostat - Purchase a Gates 19235 hose and a 3/4"x3/4"x5/8" hose tee (not plastic) to tee into the coolant reservoir hose. Cut roughly 2.5" inches out of the reservoir hose and splice in the tee - face the 5/8" portion of the tee towards the passenger side of the vehicle.

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We actually will not be needing the entire hose for this job. We will just need the two lower 90 degree bends, so cut about 8 inches away from the second 90 degree bend and use the lower portion of this hose for the job.

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'Next episode will be making the intake system!
 

MattMan02GT

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Looking really good!! It's great to see you too the point where the big parts of the swap are in and now you're hitting the loose ends. And thank you for continuing to post the nitty gritty details and part numbers
 

MR KROGOTH

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Been a minute, but I've been driving the car for a few weeks now so I guess its time to catch every one up on this build. Be ready to cry at the next few steps.

Head to Home Depot. You're gonna need some 4" PVC elbows/pipe and a rubber coupler:
Elbows: https://www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-4-in-PVC-90-Degree-Hub-x-Hub-Long-Turn-Elbow-41P0/100119727
Pipe: https://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-4-in-x-10-ft-PVC-Sewer-Pipe-6004/205706695
Coupler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-4-in-x-4-in-PVC-A-C-Fibre-or-D-I-to-A-C-Fibre-or-D-I-Flexible-Coupling-1055-44/203310948

You should be about 30$ deep when you walk out.
One rubber coupler from the throttle body of the Navi intake - to the first elbow, then elbow towards the passenger side apron, about 15" of the pipe, then a 4" to 3" rubber coupler to the MAF sensor housing. Done. You can poke a small hole in the coupler for the AAT sensor.

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I spent months looking for an intake that would work and look factory but nothing came up - so it will look ghetto. I will have mine bodyworked and bedlinered to appear like textured plastic.

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MattMan02GT

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It may not be the prettiest thing in the world, but it's functional! So you have the car running and driving now it sounds? What are your thoughts on the setup?
 

MR KROGOTH

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It may not be the prettiest thing in the world, but it's functional! So you have the car running and driving now it sounds? What are your thoughts on the setup?
Yes - been driving the Mustang back and forth to work. Certainly turns some heads!!

The car is LOUD - even with the full exhaust installed it crackles and pops excessively. I may have one built before too long. There really isnt any traction in 1st gear but it is really fun - you can really feel the weight of the engine in the front of the car now - I also need to get the strut tower brace in before too long. I've had it up for sale for months but noone will buy it.

Heres a video of it running

View: https://youtu.be/o39TSGsl8GU
 

MattMan02GT

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Sounds like a good time and it's awesome to see the beast together and running after all your work. You have a full aftermarket exhaust on it right now? Did you just get a tune on the stock computer or did you do a custom setup? I have always been told the crackles and pops were a tuning thing
 

MR KROGOTH

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Sounds like a good time and it's awesome to see the beast together and running after all your work. You have a full aftermarket exhaust on it right now? Did you just get a tune on the stock computer or did you do a custom setup? I have always been told the crackles and pops were a tuning thing
The car had an aftermarket exhaust when i bought it - it was a divorced H-pipe catless kit. I reused that kit but you will have to hammer in the pipe around where the exhaust would interfere with the structural rails on the car. Otherwise, it really needs to have an exhaust built for it as this setup just doesnt work for me. I will probably be taking it to an exhaust shop soon to get an exhaust built for it back to the original mufflers. I also have a GT350 exhaust i would like to experiment with on the car.

There is no tune on it for now - having a hard time finding a way to get it tuned.
 

MR KROGOTH

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Evening all, some progress.

When i initially pulled the car apart for the swap, I repurposed the fender liners for the chrome yellow '98 GT since that car had no liners - which left me without.
Visited the local pick-a-part yard and sourced some good OE liners, and the little splash guards at the lower that were missing as well. Also snagged a set of the 94-95 model year rocker molding extensions - if you hadnt noticed, the earler SN95 moldings didnt have the curve upwards - I think they look a bit cleaner on these cars. Here's a picture of the first time I took her to my new job:



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I rattle canned the taillamps and rocker extensions just for the moment, so I didnt look too trashy:

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They're far from perfect, but they're perfect from far. Good enough for the moment, at least until I get it into the booth. Speaking of paint, Check out what I've got my hands on!

View: https://youtu.be/OLZ8yS1LJSw
 
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MattMan02GT

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Hey Krogoth, how's the car running? Your build that has been a great one to follow and maybe someday replicate. Does that sneak peek mean the car will be painted mystichrome some day?
 

MR KROGOTH

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I haven't posted anyhting on this car in awhile - I'll catch you guys up on it now. Went ahead and did a cobra brake conversion on the front of the car back in february.

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Ran into an issue on the drivers side caliper - the new brake hose bolt was too long and pushed into the piston itself - making the pad ride the rotor.

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Fixed that problem.

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Paid less than 130$ for new pads, rotors, calipers, and hoses for this job.
 
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MR KROGOTH

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In march I set up a small amp/sub system for the car in my free time.

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Also was gifted a set of 99 cobra seats that were better than my failing cloth units - so I wired those as up as well.

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MR KROGOTH

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In April, I got some 315/35R17 Nitto NT555 G2's mounted on the car:

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Replaced the inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links and bushings, steering rack bushings, struts, and threw some cheap caster/camber plates on.

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to be continued!
 

MR KROGOTH

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April continued - nabbed a cheap double din touchscreen radio from Ebay for 35$. Came with a reverse camera, harness, and was impressed by how cheap it was. Decent for 35$

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A week later, the most amazing thing happened. Blew a head gasket (thankfully from the water jacket to outside the block:

Time to pull it all back apart. Mind you, it can't be dissassembled in the vehicle. The valve covers cant be pulled in the car.

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April isnt over yet either.
 

MR KROGOTH

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Head was fine. Caught the headgasket in time thankfully.

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And the cuplrit:

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While it was apart I decided to spray the timing and valve covers in a special color.

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MR KROGOTH

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Ended up stripping the starter lug during this process. NBD, bought the Ford mini hi-torque (GR starter) from the not Ford Performance catalog - its just a reboxed E250 starter.

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And side by side:

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And ready to go back in, head gaskets/bolts and associated hardware replaced.

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And partly in:

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BTW, yes the covers are sprayed mystichrome.
 
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MR KROGOTH

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This engine is really not meant to fit in this car. Took the two of us about1.5 hours to get it back in with the transmission attached.

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Aaaaaand in.

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Goofing with a new blower too.

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This is now leading into MAy! Re-loomed and organized the main engine harness:

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And done:

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That's all I have energy for tonight. Only 7 more months to catch up on!