Progress Thread 1998 Gt Procharger Build--dyno And Track Numbers Inside
- Thread starter squeak93
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Part of me wants to get it right and sell it before something else goes wrong. The other part wants to beat the living piss out of it and actually enjoy it.
Both likely end up unsatisfactory.
Both likely end up unsatisfactory.
robertsa
Well-Known Member
Progress is good. These are some of the reasons I will never do long tubes. They're not worth the headache.
They were definitely worth it on my Fox, idk about mod motors. I really want a set for my 03 and my 12. I'd have to be the one to install them though.
Power wise they are 100% worth it. Fitment is TIGHT, especially on an automagic mod motor. There is about 1 inch between the header and trans pan (I do have a big ass deep/finned trans pan too) to work with getting the lines in and out (and screwed in).
Got under the car to find good news for once. It was just the dipstick tube on the trans leaking. Some taps with a brass hammer and its in place and good. Cleaned up a few other small things and dropped it off for a new heater core.
Good thing too because jegs screwed up and didn't overnight the stuff. I'll be returning it all and getting my shipping back since it didn't come overnight as I paid for.
Good thing too because jegs screwed up and didn't overnight the stuff. I'll be returning it all and getting my shipping back since it didn't come overnight as I paid for.
robertsa
Well-Known Member
If you're comparing going from a stock 5.0 to long tubes, sure you'll see a big difference. You'd see a big difference going to mid-length as well.They were definitely worth it on my Fox, idk about mod motors. I really want a set for my 03 and my 12. I'd have to be the one to install them though.
There isn't enough difference between shorties and long tubes to be worth the headache *for me*. I'd rather spend my time and money elsewhere versus putting on a set of headers that is going to make life miserable under the hood.
robertsa
Well-Known Member
Ask them to check out the hoses to the core as well. Once upon a time, I blew up a heater core and found my hoses to be thin in places as well. It would be a bummer to swap the core then blow a hose or to clog up your new core with deteriorating hoses.
The hoses are new as well. We bent the heater core tube just a tad when installing the motor the first time. The core was leaking right at that crease. Doh.
The transmission is still puking fluid. I'm going to drop the pan today and replace the gasket. That's the only item left aside from a hairline crack the opens when the trans is hot and leaks.
The transmission is still puking fluid. I'm going to drop the pan today and replace the gasket. That's the only item left aside from a hairline crack the opens when the trans is hot and leaks.
robertsa
Well-Known Member
I think I got the pan lined out. New gasket. Twice. I stripped a bolt hole and had to drop it back out again to heli coil a thread hole. That sucked. But it's fine. Pan seams to have sealed so far but it seems to get worse and leak over night.
One issue solved and three more arrive.
The o2 that you have to remove to drop the pan has shorted out against the pan. I cut it off and plugged that hole. I'm trying to find someone to weld in a new bung in my garage so I don't have to trailer it to an exhaust shop just for a damn sensor.
The pos saga continues.
I believe I'm going to have it tuned then sell it. I'm tired of working on it all the time and don't want to keep doing this anymore. This car has made me royally hate this hobby.
One issue solved and three more arrive.
The o2 that you have to remove to drop the pan has shorted out against the pan. I cut it off and plugged that hole. I'm trying to find someone to weld in a new bung in my garage so I don't have to trailer it to an exhaust shop just for a damn sensor.
The pos saga continues.
I believe I'm going to have it tuned then sell it. I'm tired of working on it all the time and don't want to keep doing this anymore. This car has made me royally hate this hobby.
Tomorrow is the day for trip number three to Monks and the dyno.
We had to move the driver side o2 bung to the outside of the header as it was just too close to the pan. It ended up rubbing a wire and shorting out the sensor on the trans pan. So we drilled a new hole and tach welded up a new bung. It's getting finished welded at an exhaust shop (doing it on our backs on the floor with a flux mig welder wasn't the prettiest weld ever).
No more leaks that I can see and it appears to be operating as it should be (sans the exhaust leak at the new bung).
We will load up tonight and head out at 3am for the 5 hour drive to STL Mustangs.
We had to move the driver side o2 bung to the outside of the header as it was just too close to the pan. It ended up rubbing a wire and shorting out the sensor on the trans pan. So we drilled a new hole and tach welded up a new bung. It's getting finished welded at an exhaust shop (doing it on our backs on the floor with a flux mig welder wasn't the prettiest weld ever).
No more leaks that I can see and it appears to be operating as it should be (sans the exhaust leak at the new bung).
We will load up tonight and head out at 3am for the 5 hour drive to STL Mustangs.
Well I spoke too soon. I missed the dyno appt. Seems the pan dumped a metric
ton of fluid on the floor and was getting on the header (smoking like a champ). Also my truck's bumper plug decided to wig out and tell me every 30 second that I need to check the wiring and that the trailer was either connected or disconnected. Lights never quick working, just the trailer brakes. Damn thing. Glad I have a 34k mile new truck lol.
The pan has been pulled for the millionth time and sent to a machine shop to be surfaced on the sealing face since our straight edge test pointed to it as our potential culprit of the leak. If I can't get this to seal I guess I'll stick a stock pan back on it and hope it's not the case.
I got the transmission pan back.
The machine shop had to remove 1/16 of material to make the mounting flange flat.
That's a METRIC TON in machinist terms for flatness. No freaking wonder I couldn't get the damn thing to seal.
The machine shop had to remove 1/16 of material to make the mounting flange flat.
That's a METRIC
TON in machinist terms for flatness. No freaking wonder I couldn't get the damn thing to seal.
Got the car out on what I hope was a successful test drive. No fluids leaking. I got the trans pan to seal. Also found where my smoke screen was coming from. Seems I forgot to tighten two valve cover bolts on the pass side just above the header. Seems that'll cause some issues. Lol.
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robertsa
Well-Known Member
robertsa
Well-Known Member
Any reason you haven't just thrown a factory on on? Used a straight edge to make sure the trans mounting surface is flat? No nick's in it? Clean and dry before assembly?
