1st ever tuneup - Opinions?

[QangMartoq]

Greetings.

By the end of the month I should have a sizable quantity of cash saved up, and consequently, I want to give my Stang what it's been needing for a while.

Since I bought it Jan 31 of 2004, it's had two oil changes and a new air filter. I have no service records beyond that. Due to that uncertainty, I want to change out everything that could possibly lead to a problem, within reason and budget. My budget for this is about $500. I can adjust that upwards if I need to.

I searched the forum for all threads relating to tuneups, thoroughly read my Haynes manual, and have compiled a list of everything that I *think* needs to be done.

Additions, comments, deletions, and general encouragement are welcomed.

---- Begin List ----

All fluids are Valvoline unless specified otherwise.

- Replace spark plugs (Standard copper)
- Replace spark plug wires
- Replace PVC valve
- Check and repair EGR system
- Replace air filter (Stocker to K&N, and possibly a CAI)
- Replace fuel filter
- Trans fluid/filter change (MaxLife ATF with Stop Leak)
- Engine oil change (MaxLife synthetic)
- Replace distributor cap and rotor
- Flush out radiator and cooling system (Zerez Super Cleaner and MaxLife antifreeze, 70/30 mix)
- Add fuel injector cleaner (MaxLife Fuel Sytem Cleaner)
- Carb/TB cleaner down intake while running (SynPower Carb, Choke & TB Cleaner)
- Change power steering fluid (MaxLife Power Steering Fluid with Stop Leak)
- New brake fluid and bleed (SynPower DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid)
- Change differential fluid along with friction modifier (SynPower Full Synthetic Gear Oil)
- Pull rotors and put new wheelbearings and pack with grease, new wheel seals
- Check and adjust air in tires
- Check timing and replace timing belt (if needed)
- Replace drive belts (if needed)
- Check/clean/adjust TPS/IAC system
- Run codes from ECU
- Check all light bulbs and make sure they're working properly
- Inspect suspension and lubricate chassis
- Replace o2 sensor
- Fill WW reservoir with water and RainX concentrate
- Rotate and balance tires
- Check and adjust front end alignment
- Have battery/charging system tested
- Clean/replace battery cables
- Have brake system inspected and repaired as neccessary, including e-brake
- Adjust and lubricate A/T shift linkage

---- End List ----

Opinion on Valvoline MaxLife Engine Protector
Opinion on proper oil viscosity (Chart in Haynes suggests 10W-30)
Opinion on friction modifier in 7.5 - What's it for?
Opinion on automatic battery shutoff below certain voltage - Possible?
Opinion on EGR system - Does it help or hurt mileage?

Any other tips that would increase my mileage, short of dropping the A4LD and changing to a T-5 (someday!) are welcomed.

 

[dawsonsdaddy49]

wow you aint gonna have any free time for awhile huh ?

umm well lets see as far as engine additives i would stay with normal oil and perhaps add something like lucas additive to the oil !

oh yeah get a few pals and a case of beer and you can all knock it out in one day

 

[Ray III]

heh that's pretty thorough.

At this point the best thing you can do is get new Autolite plugs AND Autolite wires. (got those wires at advance autoparts) Also get a new timing belt since you are uncertain of the mileage on it.

Tire air pressure is also important and something you can fix for free.

Stuff you can do when you get around to it is o2 sensor, fuel filter, dizzy cap/rotor, cooling sys flush, fuel inj treatment and carb cleaner, new fluids all around (NO friction modifier in non traclok rearends), repack wheel bearings and new seals (don't need to replace unless worn), clean batt terminals, chassis lube (hmmm I don't think theres grease zerks under there), brake checkup, fill washer fluid.

The rest I would leave alone unless something is actually wrong.

Correct oil viscosity depends on operating conditions, primarily ambient temp. In my 2.3 previously I was using Valvoline MaxLine 5w30 in winter, 10w30 in spring/fall, 20w50 in summer. In my new engine I will be using Mobil 1 synthetic.

It is better to have EGR functional, but it is such a pain to keep working that most people just trash it.

 

[QangMartoq]

Here's the thing...

First, a rundown on the car's current condition.

- Takes 5-10 seconds to start when cold. (Should start right up, as far as I know).
- 8 out of 10 times, it will bog down and almost stall either when backing out of driveway first thing in the morning, or within a tenth of a mile. Feels like fuel starvation, as it bogs down even if I try to give it gas. After that inital episode, it's fine.
- Sometimes, when revving it, the car will shake (like a low rpm near stall condition, lasts for just under a second) then it clears up and revs ok.
- Annoying high idle (Sometimes up to 2k in Park - TPS/IAC, I think)
- When it hits the road after being first started, it'll rev to about 3k, and the tach needle will move erratically within a range of about 100-150 rpms as the engine refuses to rev higher. If I take my foot off the gas completely, and then give it gas again, it's fine.
- Severely crappy mileage, as I'm only getting 200-220 miles out of a tank, and I *should* be getting about 300-380. I expect about 350.
- Annoying shimmy that visibly shakes the car at speeds between 45 and 55. Shimmy lessens above that speed, but does not go away. Below 45, no shimmy.
- With 30 seconds of starting the car, a minor clattering sound can be heard from underneat the upper part of the timing belt cover. A friend tells me this means the belt is loose, meaning it has slack, and that my timing is off as a result.

If I could fix all these problems with some targeted repairs, I'd be more than happy - However - I may soon be moving to another state - CA - 3,000 mile drive - And I would hate to be starnded on the side of the road by some routine maitenance item that didn't get done!

While I'd love to do some of this work myself, currently I have no tools to do it with (or jackstands) nor do I have the mechanical knowledge beyond that required to change my oil and filter. Car savvy friends that know what they're doing, that are not all talk, are rare here.

Further, I may have to move out sometime between August 1st and Sep 1st - That being the case, I may be wasting my money on tools and stands, since I'd have nowhere to do the work.

I'd be paying a shop to do this work - I'd screen the shop as best I can - Warranty, AAA/ASE certification, previous customers that I could talk to and ask about quality of work, etc...

So there you have my situation! lol

 

[Labora]

Yah if you think your timing belt is loose I would advise getting it fixed ASAP. If it is loose enough to be heard hitting the timing chain cover that is very bad if your chain breaks you are gonna be having big problems! (like a big repair bill) That alone could be causing many of the problems you are talking about.

 

[BlackPony2000]

how many miles are on this car.. what year??? ok.. as far as the tranny fluid goes, most people i know will not change the fluid on an auto after about 70-80k miles... something about the detergents in the fluid.. i dunno. what gear do you have in the rear? if it's a limited slip, the friction modifier is for the friction discs in the rear..change the timing belt ASAP... i would do simply because you have no records for the car... on my old 90 i had it three days and the belt broke.. all i was waiting for was the new timing belt tensioner to come in off of special order.. i think that the later 2.3's (91-93 i think.. don't quote me) have engines that don't have the valve to piston clearance problems... so if the timing belt does break you are less likely to injure the head/piston/valvetrain... oh and i would go with Motorcraft wires... best on the market IMO, and a decent plug... i hate platinum so iwould stay with either a copper plug or go to something like an iridium plug...JMO

 

[Asha'man]

Yah if you think your timing belt is loose I would advise getting it fixed ASAP. If it is loose enough to be heard hitting the timing chain cover that is very bad if your chain breaks you are gonna be having big problems! (like a big repair bill) That alone could be causing many of the problems you are talking about.

Belt and belt cover, not chain.

I would do Type F ATF in the power steering, not power steering fluid. Ford specs ATF for their pumps, so use that.

Ash

 

[itsgreat2bme]

- 8 out of 10 times, it will bog down and almost stall either when backing out of driveway first thing in the morning, or within a tenth of a mile. Feels like fuel starvation, as it bogs down even if I try to give it gas. After that inital episode, it's fine.
- Sometimes, when revving it, the car will shake (like a low rpm near stall condition, lasts for just under a second) then it clears up and revs ok.

my car has started doing that too, and I've just been putting up with it since I don't know what's causing it. It was doing that kind of thing really bad (including stalling while driving!) a while back and we changed the O2 sensor and the ignition module (just pulled one from another car, didn't buy a new one) and that helped for a bit.

 

[Frumious B.]

You didn't mention hoses- if you haven't already checked them, do so.

Don't buy the K&N replacement for the stock filter- that will be a waste of money. Modify the CAI first, and then buy the K&N. The air filter is probably the least restrictive part of the stock air input.

 

[BELL]

anyone mention fuel filter? check fuel pressure from pump just to make sure

 

[Ray III]

I also had that issue where the car would almost stall as soon as you tried to move, then right after that it would run fine for the rest of the day. I did have a bad MAP sensor, I can't remember if it stopped doing that after I put a new one on though.

 

[Willy0314]

I would first change your oil, Air fliter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, injectors, and timing belt. Drive it around for a little bit and then pull the codes. Differential fluid, trans fluid, and brake and PS fluid would be the last things on my list to change.

If you take the car to a shop, and have them do all of the work your planning on, its going to cost more then $500. If you can change you oil, you can definatly change your air filter, spark plugs, plug wires and distributor cap and rotor yourself. Prolly will be able to change the timing belt too. I'd suggest buying a shop manual ($13 at autozone) and dive in yourself. The car might run 1000 times better with just a simple little tune up.

 

[QangMartoq]

Ok, an update. I went and bought a few things for the car, and if/when I move, I'll just haul it with me I guess. Probably have to find a hitch and small trailer here soon, LOL. (If 2.3 Rangers, which for the most part on 93's and older, share the same engine/drivetrain, can tow, then I should be able to as well..)

- Code Scanner (to pull codes, run KOEO and KOER tests, and test solenoids/relays)
- Inductive Timing Light (To check timing)
- Work light (Gotta have light to do my work, if my current work schedule keeps up)
- Multimeter (Testing/setting TPS, checking continuity, etc..)
- Timing belt (Maybe to replace the old one with? LOL)

I'm still short of jackstands (or ramps) - Which is better? Do jackstands just slide under each corner and the you raise each one up, or do you have to do some contortion of jacking each corner up and setting jackstands?

Also, I used to have a decent tool set - Had full set of sockets, allen drivers, screw bits, spark plug socket, hydrometer, battery cable/post cleaner, rubber mallet, circuit tester, wire tires, etc.. Until some jackass stole it. Since I am unable to find a similarly equipped set now (all in one place, nice molded case) I suppose I'll have to buy a toolbox and start getting tools a few at a time.

Beyond the other misc things that I can think of - oil filter wrench, mechanic's gloves, rust penetrant, to name a few - What else will I need, except patience and a carton of Marlboros?

Oh yes.. I do have a Haynes manual, but it is a bit short on some topics, and entirely skips others due to limited space. Not to mention, some procedures, even with illustrations, are sill confusing. As an example, I read up on changing a timing belt last night. On the ProjectHP page (forget who's site here, but whoevers it was - Good job!) it had the basics, with pics, and the Haynes manual, as usual, had the procedure, just laid out in a more complex fashion. How to find TDC, and set engine to that position.... Hmm.. A look at my Haynes gave me about zero help... lol

 

[Ray III]

my friend just got a HUSKY toolbox at home depot with a ratchet set included, $150

it has 4 or 5 drawers and a lid that folds down to cover everything, pretty nice item for the price I thought

 

[Pro-Hawk]

If it was me I would change the timming belt A.S.A.P. I always change that type of stuff when I buy a car with some miles on it. That way you know for sure its in sound shape and probly want break for another 60,000 miles Now before changing this belt please research it some because its a little of a trick to do. I got some stuff posted on my site about my recent belts change that may help. Once you got the belt changed I would go through and change your typical stuff like fuel filter and plugs etc. The best thing to do is always use MotorCraft electronics on your 2.3L(T). If its a auto (A4LD) Look into changing the filter on it also.

Good Luck

 

[kiddiccarus]

ONLY MOTORCRAFT PARTS, anything else would be uncivilized.

 

[Jacob07]

I'm still short of jackstands (or ramps) - Which is better? Do jackstands just slide under each corner and the you raise each one up, or do you have to do some contortion of jacking each corner up and setting jackstands?

Hmm.. A look at my Haynes gave me about zero help... lol

I've never been a fan of ramps. Walmart usually has a good deal for a jack/jackstand combo. You generally have more room to work with jackstands too.

As for the Haynes manual, it does tell how to get TDC.

To sum it up you take off the timing belt cover or the little rubber plug and the distributor cap. Mark the position of the #1 spark plug pole on the cap to the rest of the distributor. Then put a socket and wrench on the crank pulley. (Bottom pulley)

Turn it clockwise until you see a mark on the timing belt line up. Then check the distributor and see if the rotor is pointing to the the mark you made. If its not close then you need to turn the pulley around again and it should line up.

At least thats the way I know to do it... (it puts cyl 1 at TDC)

 

[vristang]

A couple of things I can remember...

The EGR will improve fuel economy.

Replace the timing belt, or atleast check that it did not skip out of sync.
I had very similar fuel economy in mine when my belt jumped.

You will be very glad you bought the code scanner. I love mine, saves so much time.

good luck