2 questions(ARP Bolts/Studs)(Blown headgasket?)......

[BlueOvalStangGT]

OK, I got my heads all cleaned up(still mad that im doing all this work just to put the stockers back on). Now I got a few questions:

1rst: Where can I get ARP bolts or studs. I need my car ASAP so its either ARP if NAPA or a local speedshop can get them for me, or im going with OEM. How much do they cost, and does anyone have part numbers? Oh and do I need bolts or studs?

2nd: When re-installing heads, what side or the gasket faces up? Should I oil up anything(valves, rockerarms,etc.)

3rd: How do I put my rockers arms back on. Do I need to readjust them?

4th:Whats the deal with switching back and forth between oils? I want to fill my car up with regular oil since I get it for free, run it for a day, and then swap it back for synthetic again, just to kinda clean my system out

5th: I'll tihnk of it in a sec.

 

[TrueBlue95GT]

Summit ships very quickly. The gaskets say which side go on the block and which side goes on the head. I think you tighten the rocker until you cant twist the pushrod anymore and then you tight the rocker one more quarter of a turn. About the oil, I dont know.

 

[5spd GT]

I got my Summit ARP head bolts from Summit Racing...I believe the Part # is ARP-154-3601...if your going with boost go ahead and spring for the studs...but bolts are perfectly fine...

The head gaskets are labeled "front" and you will be able to tell which way it goes...just make sure all the bolt holes, coolant passages, etc...all match with the block...

You have to reinstall the rockers on the base circle of the cam - When the exhaust side lifter (of the cylinder you picked) starts to move up...adjust the intake rocker arm...and when the intake lifter is almost down in it's bore (almost closed)...you adjust the exhaust rocker arm assembly...You find zero lash (twisting the pushrod as you tighten the rocker arm nut down until you feel a slight resistance) and then you do the proper turns or torque (Someone will chime in that knows more about installing pedestal mounted rocker arms...)...make sure you have the right size pushrods and shims if need be...

Just run your engine with your "regular" oil for the first heat cycle and then change the oil with new filter and change it again after 100 miles...and then again maybe at 500...and you should be good to go...

Good Luck

 

[BlueOvalStangGT]

Ok, about the roller rockers

I have whatever came stock, I thought they were called RR but some people on corral said they are postive stop so I do not need to adjust them. Some said tighten to 35#'s and others said tighten till you cant turn the pushrods anymore and then turn another 1/4 turn. Is this correct?

 

[5spd GT]

Ok, about the roller rockers

I have whatever came stock, I thought they were called RR but some people on corral said they are postive stop so I do not need to adjust them. Some said tighten to 35#'s and others said tighten till you cant turn the pushrods anymore and then turn another 1/4 turn. Is this correct?

Somebody knows more than I do on here...I just call them roller rockers out of habit...

I've read torque to 22lbs, or do a certain amount of turns (1/2-3/4)...etc...not for sure...You find zero lash before you do the torque or turns I believe on the pedestals...I don't think the "zero lash" theory of mine is different than from my stud mounted RR's...

Somebody will chime in...or do a search for Michael Yount (he has got a bunch of post on this and a nice write-up)...

 

[Joes95GT]

OK, I got my heads all cleaned up(still mad that im doing all this work just to put the stockers back on). Now I got a few questions:

1rst: Where can I get ARP bolts or studs. I need my car ASAP so its either ARP if NAPA or a local speedshop can get them for me, or im going with OEM. How much do they cost, and does anyone have part numbers? Oh and do I need bolts or studs?

2nd: When re-installing heads, what side or the gasket faces up? Should I oil up anything(valves, rockerarms,etc.)

3rd: How do I put my rockers arms back on. Do I need to readjust them?

4th:Whats the deal with switching back and forth between oils? I want to fill my car up with regular oil since I get it for free, run it for a day, and then swap it back for synthetic again, just to kinda clean my system out

5th: I'll tihnk of it in a sec.

1: Speed shops can usually get parts the next day. I'd try going to one of them first.

2: On some gaskets it matters and on some it doesn't. It will be obvious if one side goes a certain way.

3: Drop the pushrods in and tighten the bolts down. My Dad is a Ford Mechanic; they say to go to zero lash + 1/2 - 3/4 turn.

4: Do whatever you want with the oil...

Joe

 

[rockin_rick]

2b) I'd prelube the valve train - dump about 1 quart on each head (rockers, valvesprings) before bolting on your valve covers. Probably be a good idea to prime the oil pump with a drill and get oil flowing out of the pushrods, also.

3) This is from the service manual and, of course, assumes that the rockers and everything is stock-

All rocker arms and rocker arm seats are to be lubricated with heavy engine oil SG before installation.

1. Apply Multi-Purpose Grease DOAZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C93-A to the top of the valve stem and underside of the rocker arm seats.

2. Inspect the rocker arm seat bolts for damage.

3. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) until the valve tappet (6500) is on the camshaft base circle (all the way down), and install the rocker arm, rocker arm seat and bolt. Tighten bolts to 24-34 N-m (18-25 lb-ft).

4. Install valve covers as outlined.


Rick