2000 GT Motor Build

Discussion in '1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-' started by nine2oneGT, Nov 17, 2011.

  1. That's what I said until my last $10K rebuild because of the Aeromotive pumps. The shop I use won't use those pumps any more after they replaced 3 of them. We caught the first 2 before fuel startvation did any damage. We didn't catch the problem with the third one until after the engine was blown. Now it has Walbros and no more pump problems after 8000 miles.
  2. Well since i have the infamous 1996-2004 GT there is not a dual pump kit. I would have to return my aeromotive. Get a Cobra Gas Tank , Fore kit? $440, fpdm, fuel lines, and rails. Would it be cheaper than what I paid for the aeromotive kit. Do they burn up because of the sump?

    Does the fore kit include the pumps?
  3. Seems fore is out of business so wont be doing that. I think im going to stick with the Aeromotive, if it burns out I will replace it with a better inline if needed. That was the recommendation from my tuner. Fuel Injection Specialites in San Antonio. It has a one year warranty so if it burns up in that time I will send it back and sell the one they send me. If its after hopefully I will have got some good use out of it by then. Its too easy with the kit, fittings, pretty much everything.

    He told me he knows plenty of guys who have had a1000 systems for over 5 years with no problems.

    :shrug: Why do sn95s have to be so damn complicated!!
  4. Put a fuel pump controller on it and it will not burn up. It's that simple.

    I actually decided to call my buddy that has an 01 Bullitt with an A1000 pump that he daily drivers. It's been on there for 3 years now. His bullitt makes a tad over 500rwhp. He has been running a billet fuel pump controller since day one.
  5. Seems like the problem is that the fuel gets too hot then the heat burns up the pump. Damn man, another 320 bucks for the controller. It never ends.

    Anyone heard of using a fuel cooler, like a ambient radiator to cool off the fuel going back to tank?
  6. Very similar story to what my shops experience is on more that modular cars...f-bodies, gto's etc...
  7. OK fellas I'm back with an update. I finally got this thing together. After driving 300 miles round trip every weekend since August I got her fired up on Saturday. Of course I have a coolant leak from deck of the heads right by the thermo. Of course the build has been a nightmare. Whether it was the wrong parts or :poo: just breaking or needing to be replaced along the way Im elated that it is finally coming to an end.

    Here are a few pics of the finished powerplant.


    My leak is coming from this. Idk how I missed it when I was putting the intake gasket on. Have it filled with metal epoxy and letting it set for the week. Im pretty sure that the engine builder should not have given it back to me with this pitting. I paid for a complete rebuild of the heads including a port and polish. Also, they redrilled all the threads for the intake bolts but they used standard thread helicoils instead of metric :shrug:
    The place is supposed to be one of the best engine builders in San Antonio but I have not been impressed.

    View attachment 155475

    I did get a quick vid of her idling. Still need to get the fuel pressure dialed in but she sounds MEAN. There is no exhaust at the moment but it was sweet music to my ears.

    View attachment 155476
  8. I worked directly with Aeromotive trying to get this straightened out and was unsuccessful. I even worked with Walbro when I first put the charger on with a low pressure problem. They hand built me a tank assembly and that didn't work either with a single pump when I was at 350rwhp. That system was installed and tuned by Steeda. I'm glad it works for your friend but in my experience, after 3 of them, I'm done.
  9. I ended up keeping my Aeromotive system, I did buy the speed controller though. So far so good but wont know for sure until she is up on the dyno.
  10. Got an update for anyone who cares. Had he tuned last week up to 4500 rpm for the break in. Made 305hp/345tq @6psi. Runs great so far. Started loosing spark at that rpm due to high intake air temps. Do not have my meth/water injection hooked up at the moment because my controller went out, waiting to get it back from Snow. Looking into a small water/air intercooler to keep the AIT low even without the meth since it wouldnt be kicking in till about 7psi anyway.


  11. i know its a pita to run the piping (and your probably sick of working on it at this point), but why dont you get yourself the piping, fittings, a cheap ebay air to air intercooler, re-clock your centri, a blow thru maf, a re-tune and call it a day. I would think that you could do it for less than $600 and then you will have a reliable system to lower iat's. i dont have anything against methanol, i just think that you probably have a lot of time money and effort in to rebuilding your motor and personally i would not take the chance of a clogged nozzle blowing that kind money and work. you could even spray the methanol on top of that and increase timing, therefore increasing horsepower.
  12. Because running the piping and redoing all that stuff is a PITA like you said and I already have about 17k into this build, funds are a bit low. The methanol is already installed and works fine. The controller was just not sending power to the pump so I had to send it back. Idk what you mean by re-clock the centri? Can you not use a suck through MAF with an intercooler air/air or water/air?
  13. Nice build, all in all!
  14. instead of the centri discharging at 9 o'clock (ish) it gets repositioned at 4 o'clock (ish). pipe runs down to drivers side a/a intercooler pipe out of passenger side i/c and up to maf then throttlebody. you want to run a blow through maf because of all the extra piping between the blower and throttle body.

    wouldnt it suck if you for some reason your snow sender took a dump under boost or your nozzle clogged under boost and your motor went scary lean and burnt up your 17k motor?

    again, i have nothing against methanol... i just wouldnt trust it with a build like yours (if it were my car).
  15. usaf,

    OK got what you mean by reclocking, never heard it used that way. I have been looking at some different air/air ICs. If I do end up doing it will it make my meth/water injection obsolete or will it help. Im assuming it will just help more with even lower temps and the octane boost. I have already had some problems with my controller for the snow pump.
  16. Just want to add my $0.02 on the fuel pump issue, over the last year or so Ive switched to using Fuelab pumps...you can run a big pump, no controller needed and car wire the pump to kick into high gear with a hobbs switch under boost. They are digital and quiet as well and support more HP for less $$.
  17. Well I already have the fuel system thing figured out. Ended up getting the controller. It has been working great so far. Plenty of gas on the dyno. The only thing I dont like about it is that the A1000 is so damn NOISY. Even with full 3" exhaust you can still hear the pump clearly. Very annoying. If it goes out I was thinking to swap it for dual 300lph Bosch pumps or a different inline. I have not heard of that brand. For $425 I will def have to save up.

    The A1000 does have enough punch for me to convert to e85 though. That is still in the cards as well. Looks like that fuel lab will do the same
  18. Twin ford GT pumps for the win, I have made well over 500rwhp (with 39lb injectors on returnless) with the setup no controller and same with the car below making 630rwhp (60lb injectors return style) on just 2 pumps.

    BTW get an air 2 air intercooler, CX racing makes a really good kit(around 300 bucks), my IATs are always around the same temp as outside of the car.
  19. Nice looking build. Who was the shop in SA that did the engine work?