2001 gt won't turn over after some work

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by jomull55, Mar 23, 2009.


    thats common from what ive heard...happens alot...when mine did i wasnt lucky..but it was only the valve...yes my piston has marks ,but its still in thier..did u find this from a compression ck,,or did you just pull covers?have you tryed to re install them or are they hurt,,,they look strong ...how long did the clanking last when you tryed re starting the car after work being done,,,that started this thread
  2. Wow, if you had your timing off enough to break a cam follower, then yes, you have bent valves, thrashed your valve guides/retainers, most likely stretched your timing chain, and maybe damaged the springs and related equipment. You may have even scored the cam lobes. Don't waste your time and money trying to repair these heads. Just get a new set. If you were wanting to port yours, get a set already done from a reputable shop. Most 2V heads are just too cheap to justify rebuilding the ones you already have. If the timing was only off on one side you might only need one.

    Don't put of on yourself, the haynes/chilton manuals out there that tell you how to set your timing are incorrect, among a host of other things. Who knows what other publications are the same way. Unless you were working out of the Ford Shop Manual, you were already handicapped from the get-go, and even then it can be very unclear if you have never done it before.

    I feel your pain, believe me, I was only one tooth off and slightly bent my exhaust valves on one of my SVO heads. I just got real lucky. Don't waste the resources you have. Honestly I don't even think you could use the heads for cores.

    Remember you have every mod member here on Stangnet that is willing to help you out. Most members trade these heads for less than $300 a pair. You might even find a member willing to give you a complete used set.
    If I had a set lying around (unfortunately I no longer do) they would be yours for nothing but shipping.

    If you need any advice for your rebuild, just ask. I will help in any way I can.
  3. thank you for all the help, i will post back later after i talk to the machine shop. i was at a ford swap meet last weekend and saw used pi heads for 275 a pair, shouldn't have passed those up.
  4. You can score heads from mountainers and exlpoders for nothing (I got my whole motor, aluminum block at that for 1k with 22k miles when used 60k gt motors were 2k...bc the junk yard didn't know it was the same thing, but better).
  5. id rather not buy something from a junkyard and have a motor i know nothing about
  6. It is a risk but if you can score one like I did, there is not reason to fear it. (esp from a mounty or exlpoder as the are a million times less likely to be hot rodded.)
  7. When you heads have been removed!

    Very sorry to see this. My hunch was correct about the bents valves. Now you know for sure that you have an interference engine. There is one more area that you have to check on really good, that is your pistons. After your heads are removed, clean the top of the pistons real good, and look for cracks, or hair line cracks. From the looks of the broken cam followers in the picture, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the pistons got damaged beyond repair as well. Like the others have mentioned, don't waste your time with trying to repair the heads. Far too much damage. Now, after the heads have been removed, if some of the pistons are damaged, you may even consider purchasing a good used engine. I think you would end up spending far less money this way. The good thing about it is, you won't have go through the same thing all over again making sure your timing is set correctly. Something to think about. Good luck, Tommy.

    You may want to look at this Ebay Item: 390040884095
  8. alright guys, all this trouble is starting to make me thing that i should just go ahead with the plans i had for this car down the road. heads/cams and then maybe a few months down the road or next winter do an intake (i like the edelbrock victor jr)
    goals are as follows:

    very streetable setup
    low budget(ish) obviously this can't be done cheap
    hoping for well over 300rwhp

    what are the best options as far as heads/cams go? it looks like mmr's head prices are coming down to reality a bit.
    what will the best combo be aside from waiting on the trick flow heads?
  9. Use a search function for that. Heads/cams has been covered many many times. Plenty of combo's that will net u ur goals.
  10. If you are staying NA and shooting for 300 RWHP you don't honestly need that much. An Induction setup and a free flowing exhaust is really all you need. Exhaust is pretty straightforward: Longtubes, offroad mid-pipe, and aftermarket mufflers. No need to get specific on that. As far as induction, using a CAI will make things shiny, but is nowhere near as important as the following items.


    That Edelbrock intake you were looking at makes good power past 5500 rpm, but the runners are a little short for decent low end torque.

    I would recommend the Trick Flow intake, or if it is actually available now, the BBK DSI.


    On the horizon, TFS has a great set of new design 2V heads about to be released for 2K. I don't know if you want to spend that much money though. They do flow enough out of the box to support WELL over 300 RWHP.

    SVO heads are available for $549 each (1100 a pair). They will need minor work to support 300 at the wheels, but not much. Maybe none depending on your other mods. If you can score an SVO intake it is already matched to these heads. If you can't, you can port match a set of SVO heads to the PI or TFS intake (it is virtually a SVO/Bullit with the front two runners slightly straightened.

    As far as ported PI heads, Patriot has a set of very nice stage 2 ported pi's for $1395. There are many other fine shops that offer ported PI heads that support your power levels.


    You need to look real hard at how high you want to spin your motor, and whether you want a broad torque band, or to maximize high end power. Since the 2V has no cam variation capability, you usually have to sacrifice some low end torque to make top end power. The more radical the cam design, the more dramatic the low end torque loss. Most companies offer profiles for their cams in 3 stages. Many have specific profiles for either NA or Blower profiles. Some will build you a custom grind, maybe at no additional charge. Goes without saying, you should upgrade your springs for any non-stock cam. These are just opinions, please don't take this for gospel.

    Stock PI cams make decent torque and power but are designed for fuel economy and emissions. They are a decent improvement over NPI, but are still not really a performance cam. They make peak power at around 5200 RPM in an otherwise stock configuration.

    if you don't want to go past 6200 RPM, I would stick with a Stage one cam. Most stage one setups lose no lower end torque, offer fine peak gains of at least 20 hp with the power peak coming higher in the RPM band. They have less post-peak fall-off than stockers often seeing 35 hp differences past 6000 RPM. They have a little bit of lope but not much.

    If you are willing to spin it to 6500-7000RPM then use a stage 2. Most stage 2's have a slight drop in low end torque, but mid-range torque and peak power are greatly increased. Power peak is at an even higher RPM, and post peak fall-off is greatly reduced. In some setups, power differences beyond 6000 RPM can be up to 60hp higher than stock. They have a noticable lope at idle. They require PTV clearance checks in most instances.

    If you are willing to go to, or go past 7000 RPM, a stage 3 cam is a good choice. It will require checking ptv clearance and most likely flycutting the pistons. You will make a lot of high end power with further reduced drop off. The downside is most stage 3 cams are losing power compared to the stock set up to 4500 RPM. As for how much more they make than stockers, the comparison is pretty moot because the operating ranges are completely different. These cams tend to have a rough idle.

    Again, these are just my recommendations. If your opinions are not the same, please don't take any offense, just offer them up for a change of perspective.

    If you are wanting some help with anything specific, please let me know.
  11. GT Mustang Power Packages

    If you are looking for after market head and camshaft packages, you may want to check out these companies. Good luck, Tommy.

    Sutton High Performance (708) 720-8500

    Hi-Tech Motorsport Inc. (763) 712-9088

    Sean Hyland Motorsport (519) 421-2291
  12. I'm still trying to throw around every possible angle of what i can do with this.... thanks for all the help so far.
  13. Your really going to have to make up your mind as to what you want your combo to do before we can really be of much help.

    Fact is you need new heads, so svo heads would be a great start, cams.....they are cheap and easy to come by (look up trick flow cams from summitt racing with valve springs) and you can re use ur stock pi intake till you decide.
  14. His final decision will come just after he removes his heads!

    I think his final dicision will come after he removes his heads to see if any of his pistons has damages to it. Good luck, Tommy.
  15. i plan to take the short block to a machine shop if i see any damage to the top of the pistons so they can go through the whole thing and check it out. whether there is or isn't damage i want to get a new set of heads/cams. which is why i was asking for opinions on head/cam combos the pi intake will stay for the time being...
  16. here are some progress pics of what we did today...




  17. How are the pistons?

    Any damage to any of the pistons? Hope not! Good luck, Tommy.
  18. yeah a little bit, im going to have the block gone through by my machine shop