2005 GT 02 sensor stuck rich

At least it is not a GM product. I run into incomplete or just wrong diagnostic routines all the time from the GM service manual. Had a Siverado last week that had a Knock sensor code. Diagnostic routine had me check the voltage at the sensor, (had to remove the starter to access), it said that if I had over 2 volts at pin #2 with the key on to replace the ECM (computer), So I did and then programed the ECM to the vehicle. After all of that, same problem. Turns out, that of the 3 pages of diagnostic routines, at the bottom of the last page it said that if the voltage on pin #2 was between 2 and 4 volts to replace the knock sensor...
WTF is that step not BEFORE, or instead of, the step that says to replace ECM on page 1?
At least it was a warranty repair and GM gets to eat the part and diagnostic time instead of the customer.
I could list several more example of wrong or missing diagnostic steps in the service manual. It gets very frustrating to spend hours chasing wrong information. I asked the shop foreman how all of this stuff gets so messed up and he just shrugs and says, "you are asking the wrong guy, go ask GM". Thanks man, that helps...a lot.
Same here our Ford manuals had incorrect wire colors for us to chase.
 
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Same here our Ford manuals had incorrect wire colors for us to chase.
That is funny as hell.
Do you know why?
Because your wiring diagrams are in Color.
GM wiring diagrams are black and white...
Even in the year 2022 GM has not learned what color is.
Go ahead and point out Fords faults ( I worked at Ford Dealerships for over 20 years)
For every item you complain about, I will show you 4 GM F* ups that are worse.
I wish GM had Fords problems. It would make my life easier.
 
Its down at Ford one more time ,they are going to reprogram the keys and check it out one more time .
The dealer lady comes running out and says thats a nice looking car ,i tell her it would be even better if it ran . She asked me if i wanted to sell ,she said its worth quite a bit right now . I told her i wanted to try a bit more to straighten it out because i would really like to drive it ,she said if i do decide to sell let her know first . I kind of think they would actually fix it and then set it on the lot for some rediculous price . It is supposed to be finished some time today.
 
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Oh ,i dont believe this crap ,Ford calls and says i need a new battery ,the battery is dead and they cant program the keys but they can sell me a new battery for 300 ...but it has a really good warranty ...and 75 to install it ARE THEY FRIGGEN KIDDING ME ! Yeah ,i see the cutting torch in this things future !
 
Load on trailer?
Hell make them figure it out!
If they put a processor inn it and it does not fix it... They can take it out and keep diagnosing it
The fact that it has mismatched parts may be the issue and when they figure that out they will up the ante
 
Ok ,i had it running at idle for a good 45 minutes and no codes ,i drove it down to my shop ,about 100 yards ,and it throws the light ,that is about the longest it has ran with the light off . Is it possible it has contaminated fuel ? It seems the longer it runs the longer it takes to throw the light ,and it hasnt gone into fails safe yet . It is running very smooth and no longer sounding like it is dropping cylinders
 
Ok ,i had it running at idle for a good 45 minutes and no codes ,i drove it down to my shop ,about 100 yards ,and it throws the light ,that is about the longest it has ran with the light off . Is it possible it has contaminated fuel ? It seems the longer it runs the longer it takes to throw the light ,and it hasnt gone into fails safe yet . It is running very smooth and no lon Damn straight. Keep driving it. Get it hot. Only add Chevron premium. Use Motorcraft oil and filters for now
 
Well ,i have changed every sensor on this thing and still get the stuck rich codes . The only thing i havent changed is the pedal sensor and the engine harness ,since the harness and the pedal sensor is original to the car ,and the motor ran perfect in the wrecked 07 it just kind of runs down to one of these two ..now ,the new problem! The 05 pedal sensor is a 8 pin and the 07 sensor is a 7 pin and i can not find a 8 pin sensor ,will the 07 sensor work or is the 05 a one year only like the wiring harness ????
05 pic is first ,the 07 has a black plastic plug lower right
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So far everything i have replaced hasnt came up to what two trips to ford did and they didnt find the problem and all they wanted to do was replace parts so i think i am good . There really shouldnt be anything mis matched now . I ran into a post on a face book page for a pedal code showing and all the replies said no it is the throttle position sensor but there is also a sensor on the pedal its self that can cause the same codes and problems i am getting ,and mine did bring up this code one time ,i figured it was because it went into limp mode but not so sure now . I am going to pull the pedal assembly from my brothers blue 2005 and give it a try ,if that clears the problem then i will have to try to locate a 8 pin pedal sensor
 
Ok ,down to the throttle body . I pulled it off and it was pretty oily on the inside ,then i looked inside the intake with a light and saw a small puddle of oil in the intake floor ,the inside walls were also coated in an oily film . I took a can of throttle body cleaner and flushed it out and used a rifle cleaning wand with a rag zip tied to the end and cleaned it the best i could . If the throttle body is not supposed to have oil in it could the intake having oil in be the cause of my problems?