242rwhp w/SC at 9lbs? Opinions and advice?

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by 9lb302, Jan 12, 2004.

  1. Here is the current combo:94 GT Vert w/56,500 miles
    (sorry this is long!!)

    Engine: Stock H/C, Cobra Intake, BBK 65mm TB, PD BD-11a w/ 9lb Pulley, Custom cold air/power pipe with Stock MAF located in fenderwell, FMS Ceramic Shorties, Bassani Hi-Flo X, Borla Cat Back, Crane HI6-S & MSD super conductor wires, MSD cap/rotor, 255lb FP and Adj FPR at 38lbs w/FMU 10:1, and stock 19lb injectores - Trans: Built AODE, Transgo, Tru-Cool Cooler, Stock TQ Cnv., FMS Aluminum Driveshaft, FMS 3.73's, Steeda Ultra Cool Radiator

    Mustang Dyno numbers w/blower are 242RWHP and 286RWTQ - this seems a bit low to me for the combo? I am seeing 7.9 - 8.0lbs of boost at 5500 when it shuts down and it's at 98mph. (I hit rev limiter in all gears at 5500rpm) -
    I had a custom burned chip for my combo after a safe tune - sent in the dyno sheets....lost 5hp, so no chip w/ the above dyno #'s

    Tuning - I can't rev past 5,500 - After reading many posts, I believe this is the factory rev limiter I need to override by installing either a chip or tuning software because of the 3.73's and the VSS. As I lost HP with the custom chip, and my A/F ratios are ok - I just want to get rid of the rev limiter (and use the Crane for rev limit), and adjust the fan? Should I chip or get and EEC tuner or Tweecer or?

    I have the factory TQ Converter and stock MAF...H/C could be in the future, so I want to tune w/o those at this point. Are these realistic numbers on this combo so far? and what should be next?
    Thanks much.
  2. It wasn't a dynojet. Numbers are always low on anything different. The factory Torque converter doesn't help plus you can't wind the thing out with the limiter. Post the dyno sheet.
  3. First thing, are you sure your making 9lbs with the blower? Could it be slipping to 5lbs or so?

    Another thing, your running on 19lb injectors with a 10:1 FMU, on 38lbs of presure...
    THeres no doubt your running lean. I would atleast shove the 12:1 FMU disk in there, and up the base presure to somthing like 42psi or so. This will help some, and im sure will boost your h/p readings.

    Your combo shoudl be making close to 350h/p. mustangdyno's never put out the #'s Dynojets do. so take that into account.
    Factory limiter for your car should be around 5500-5550... Mine was the same way, kept hitting it. You bump the limiter and your going to go super lean, which is really bad on 19's injectors, with a blower.

    Some things i woudl recomend, because ive been there, and done that.. have had the same setup as you in the past.

    -Get rid of the 19lb injectors for somthing like 36's or 42's, this will allow you to remove the FMU.
    -Purchace a Tweecer, and bump your limiter, adjust your tranny settings and whatever else you need to. They are very easy to use, as far as the basics go.. I had my tranny shifting the way i wanted the first day i got my tweecer. Bumped the limiter and did away with those problems.
    -Get a ProM80 maf ( calibrated to yoru injectors, of coarse) they are cheaper then the 77's, and work much better with blowers, then most of the others.

    After these few things, the car shoudl run great, and make nice power.
  4. just for comparisions sake, my stock automatic made 316RWHP untuned, hitting the limiter at 5550rpms on 19lb injectors with a 255 hipresure pump, 12:1 FMU with exhuast leaks, on a 90* humid day, at sea level.. Only other mods were shorty headers and an X pipe. On stock heads, cam, intake, convertor, trans, no tuning devises, ect.. Went from running mid 15's to low 13's.

    Im sure i could have made 350RWHP or so with 42's, a ProM80, and a chip, tuner. This was on 8lbs of Vortech boost. Ive got the dyno sheet and a video if you want to see, 9lb302.
  5. Thanks for the info. I'll try and post the dyno sheets this evening, I'll have to scan and post somewhere.

    I'm pushing 8lbs of boost on the dyno sheet when I hit the rev limit with no slippage (brand new belts, idler and very tight). I think a Tweecer will be a big help, especially if I go with different MAF and Injectors. The A/F ratios are good per the Dyno sheets timed at 9-10* with no detonation....so we left the stock/Maf injectors. I know MD dyno numbers tend to be lower, but I didn't think it would be that low, with some of the other setups I'm seeing in the 280 range....

  6. :nice: how much boost were you running with that setup? did you have any numbers before the SC? the reason i ask is because i'm curious what numbers are possible with the stock converter with the mods you have.
  7. First off, WELCOME to our forum :flag:
    I see youre new here.

    I cant help too much, but I CAN say that a good TC stalled to the blower will get you 7-9% more power to your wheels. As said also, the Mustang Dynos run lower.
    Is there a chance that your base timing is set too low? You wanna be low with a blower, but Im at 9*, some guys go to 10*. Maybe they went way below that?

    You should get about 320 or so with that setup tuned right.

  8. I was running 8lbs with the Vortech when i dynoed that number. torque was around 307, i believe. A rough guess would be 180-190RWHP before the blower. Basically a stock automatic with just exhuast.
  9. With headers, flows, xpipe, pulleys, gears (dont count) and K&N, My AODE made 189/249 at the wheels with stock converter. :( :notnice:

    They put on the converter and dynoed it with all things the same, and the car put down 203/278. :banana:

    That is about 7% gain in HP at the wheels, aside from the car launching and felling better.

    With the "standard" mods, Autos will not see 200 at the wheels. You have to start doing the "stuff" between the air filter and the Headers for that.

  10. dyno link

    Here is the dyno sheet - 240hp and 261tq (I thought it was 286)...there was another run at 242hp, can't find sheet.