289 Stroker Kit
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68RustBucket
New Member
I would not suggest a 347 stroker on an original 289 block. If you want the 347, grab a 5.0 roller block. they're rather inexpensive, and much more friendly with a stroker
If you want to keep the 289 block, either build the hell out of the 289 or grab a 302 rotating assembly and have at it. potential is based on how much you want to spend. Personally, i'm rebuilding my 289 into a real screamer with usable street manners. Not many people do that these days, so I figured it'd be slightly less common than the typical 302/5.0 build up.
If you want to keep the 289 block, either build the hell out of the 289 or grab a 302 rotating assembly and have at it. potential is based on how much you want to spend. Personally, i'm rebuilding my 289 into a real screamer with usable street manners. Not many people do that these days, so I figured it'd be slightly less common than the typical 302/5.0 build up.
brianj5600
Active Member
The reason for not using a 289 block is that the cylinders don't go down as far as the 302. This allows more rocking of the piston at BDC. Ford thought it needed to make the sleeves longer for a reason. One engine in the engine masters challenge was sleeved in all 8 cylinders because the builder did not want excessive rock. Not many 5.0 blocks fail w/o a power adder, and many live even with them. If you are not looking to make over 500hp, I'd use a 5.0 block for the simple reason it is easy to use a hydraulic roller.
brianj5600
Active Member
the difference in cylinder wall length between a 289 and a 302 block is minor at worst, and non existant at best. the 289 block is going to be stronger than the later 5.0 blocks due the greater amount of metalin them. and yes there are a few differences between the blocks, but most of them are minor ones. there are a couple of changes in the steam holes in the block deck, but they are of no concern.
68RustBucket
New Member
Dothang67 said:
My build includes the following:
Hot tank & bore the block .030 over
KB281 Hypereutectic pistons (a bit lighter than the KB115's)
Recondition & shot-peen the original piston rods
Clean up the original crank. It was in excellent condition, no cuts necessary
Comp Cams 282s cam
Weiand Stealth intake
AFR165's, port matched to the intake
Holley 650 DP
ARP main studs, rod bolts, and everything else under the sun
**forgot to mention, the KB281's with 58cc combustion chambers increase the CR to ~9.6
anything i'm missing, just ask and i'll try to answer
the reason i suggested to go with a late model 5.0 block is not because of any strength issue at all ... it was because the 5.0 blocks are already setup for a roller cam / lifters.
Ticks, you don't have any information in your profile about your car, but if you have an older 289 equipped car, you may have a 5 bolt transmission bellhousing, and newer 5.0 rollers and 289/302s have a 6 bolt bellhousing. If you have an older 289, you may have to swap the tranny as well.
LMan
Founding Member
68RustBucket
New Member
**The only reasons to definately use a late model 5.0L block over a 289 are these:
1) The late model 5.0L blocks are roller blocks. Roller hardware is a nice luxury.
2) You may not want to keep the 289 block incase you feel like building it back more towards original specs.
1) The late model 5.0L blocks are roller blocks. Roller hardware is a nice luxury.
2) You may not want to keep the 289 block incase you feel like building it back more towards original specs.
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