Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body ....... 22 Years After My First

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#41
I decided to do the bushing. I was able to get a newer driveshaft from a buddy’s car (he went to aluminum), and I had new ujoints and yoke put on that. Hopefully that all solves my tranny leak.
I got everything off down to the crank, and now I’m wondering if it was my rear main leaking at all. The P.O. has put black RTV on the oil pan under the bearing, and after a few days, I’ve noticed a small amount of oil from the pan gasket. The rear main is still completely dry. Just wondering if you guys can see anything from the pic. To me, the rear main looks ok, and has definitely been changed already (its National brand), and looks higher quality than the one I just got from LMR.
I also replaced the pcv valve, completely took the screen apart and cleaned that, which was pretty gummed up. Maybe pressure was getting too high causing leaks?
I guess my question is would you do the seal, or wait and see. I’ve heard too many stories of them leaking again right after replacement, I’m leaning toward hoping it was the pan and the pressure. I did get quite a few turns on the pan bolts too when making sure they were tight. Thanks guys!

Ps. Anyone deleting the smog, don’t waste your time with the overpriced thermactor plugs. With the access I had with everything apart, a little in and out with a 5/8 bolt cleaned the threads, and these Allen head plugs from Ace worked like a charm.
85EDA49D-3961-4431-9C43-91EBDE7DA987.jpeg
03758CD6-4EBE-48E5-87B4-CD9453F15A47.jpeg
42C381B3-C26F-473E-96FD-5257F770E931.jpeg
D4CC1741-401A-4A9C-8DF2-F3F00890C315.jpeg
 
  • Sponsors (?)

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#43
Yeah, I’m leaning toward putting this all back together and see what happens.
I’ve cleaned EVERYTHING under here, so taking it apart again will be a breeze if I have to do it again.
I almost just want to see if the PCV issue and the loose pan bolts make a difference before I mess with the seal.
Just got my new spacer plate from UPS today too. The Ford piece on the right weighs almost double the piece of crap that was in there!
C38E88A0-C95F-4DF6-8199-18C552367954.jpeg
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#44
Decided to replace it all while I was in there. Just used the bread trick on the pilot bearing. Worked like a charm!
D703F83D-A6D2-4687-90C7-022B51FD2245.jpeg
1D3ED88F-F9D2-4DD0-A213-F9D247D8781D.jpeg
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#46
Decided to pull my upper intake for paint and to clean everything up underneath. First time pulling one. Not too bad.
89DBE59A-2ABB-4F61-AD36-AA663D0E6D59.jpeg
C1C89F37-39C6-493E-BEF5-B5091AA010FD.jpeg
 

95BlueStallion

You drunk?
10 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
4,927
2,614
204
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
#47
While you have the upper intake off, check for oil leaks on the back seal of the lower intake. That could be running down and appearing to be a leak from lower.
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#48
Will do. Thx.
When I did my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel I was expecting to replace my rear main, but it looked fine. Maybe that is my culprit.
I did do the PCV and screen while I was in there a while ago, and it definitely seemed to have slowed considerably, but something definitely still dripping slightly.
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#49
Not one of Ford’s better ideas!! How do they think putting this valve under the upper intake, facing inward, was a good idea.
My old 86 GT that I owned had it right up front near the distributor!
79669B15-8D77-4C92-BBE6-45BE19844847.jpeg
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#53
Did some wire wheel work on the EGR and spacer plate this morning.
 

Attachments

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
3,973
3,359
173
41
#54
Hey man...just a quick tip o recently learned.

If you wipe some car wax on the fresh metal it'll keep it from oxidizing and rusting. Ofcourse, painting would be a bit harder. Would need to thoroughly clean and degrease....but if you like the natural look...
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#55
Hey man...just a quick tip o recently learned.

If you wipe some car wax on the fresh metal it'll keep it from oxidizing and rusting. Ofcourse, painting would be a bit harder. Would need to thoroughly clean and degrease....but if you like the natural look...
Thanks. I do like the natural look, but I am concerned with it being a constant battle to keep it looking good.

Just got some brushes for my Dremel that I’m getting the corners with, then I’ll decide to paint or not.
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#56
Just a quick update now that I’ve got the paint issues figured out.

Drivers valve cover done (just a test fit)
88896D3F-545F-4027-A585-85A8D505A51B.jpeg


Passenger side off, cleaned, ready for prime.
9CFAD5CF-DC20-447C-893F-A8F5ED2B0F80.jpeg


EGR and spacer plate primed and ready for paint.
0FF4D38C-C71F-40D8-A4A1-2B389A5C5111.jpeg


After paint:

752AD9BC-734D-4D7D-818B-83849F452FDD.jpeg



I also just received the AC delete kit on sale from LMR, so that will be part of the underhood clean-up as well.
 
Last edited:

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#58
Some more work today:

Second valve cover painted (still need to polish)
C3496935-98F7-4F4A-9DB8-5CB60BBCB24D.jpeg


Bracket for MAP sensor has been bugging me for a while, so got that cleaned up.
2682F4E3-18E8-4EA6-8158-3D7E0ABD1613.png
AB769D62-1744-4366-BE5F-0A9A02D0F1EA.png


and I’m sorry @General karthief , but I removed my compressor and lines, installed my AC delete brackets, and moved my power steering pump.
B31AA0DC-8CCA-4660-91F1-859CC659532B.jpeg



A few years down the road when I purchase my 134 retrofit kit from LMR, you can say “I told ya so”.

But while it wasn’t working, I couldn’t stand looking at the chewed up insulation on the accumulator line, and rusted, bent lines coming from the evap.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
3,973
3,359
173
41
#59
Just a bit of fyi.... they're moving away from selling r134a to regular people in the next few years. All new cars have been running r1234yf. The new stuff is flammable but safer for the ozone layer.

If you have thoughts of going back ya might want to buy some r134a before prices get jacked up.
 

Rdub6

Active Member
Dec 29, 2017
172
87
38
45
#60
Just a bit of fyi.... they're moving away from selling r134a to regular people in the next few years. All new cars have been running r1234yf. The new stuff is flammable but safer for the ozone layer.

If you have thoughts of going back ya might want to buy some r134a before prices get jacked up.
Wow, now 134 is the bad stuff? I must be getting older! 25 years ago when I was in the business, 134 was the good stuff, and we were just getting regulated on the R12. Seems as if they’ll never come up with something that will satisfy the powers that be.