If you are dropping the k member, you might as well do an oil pan gasket while you are there.
Ah...scope creep
Ah...scope creep
Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body - some window trim work!
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Steel1
Mustang Master
Those would work , ideally you would like to attach one at the front and one at the back if possible.
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I agree, one bolted to front of head and the other bolted to the rear of a head. It should get the job done fine for you
I got my rear brake line kit from MM today. I took a few minutes to get them attached today. They really do make quality stuff. I’ll get some pics when the workbench doesn’t look like a tornado hit it.
I did think that the bracket that holds the rear tee came in the kit...... but it didn’t.
So now I’ll have to restore this one. Threw in some vinegar to loosen up the rust, and then I’ll hit it with the wire wheel.
I did think that the bracket that holds the rear tee came in the kit...... but it didn’t.
So now I’ll have to restore this one. Threw in some vinegar to loosen up the rust, and then I’ll hit it with the wire wheel.
Decide to use some ratchet straps with the engine support bar. Along with a jack stand under the balancer, I feel pretty safe.
And from this view of the k member and oil pan...... I’m sure glad I’m going to get it cleaned up!
And from this view of the k member and oil pan...... I’m sure glad I’m going to get it cleaned up!
And here it is after the vinegar/wire wheel treatment! Good as new, and ready for paint.I got my rear brake line kit from MM today. I took a few minutes to get them attached today. They really do make quality stuff. I’ll get some pics when the workbench doesn’t look like a tornado hit it.
I did think that the bracket that holds the rear tee came in the kit...... but it didn’t.
So now I’ll have to restore this one. Threw in some vinegar to loosen up the rust, and then I’ll hit it with the wire wheel.
K member is out. Seven out of 8 bolts look like new. # 8 has some issues! Now to investigate further into the frame rail.
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
No, not right now.
This wasn’t really in the plans either, but while I had everything else taken apart around it, I figured I may as well take this down and refinish it.
This wasn’t really in the plans either, but while I had everything else taken apart around it, I figured I may as well take this down and refinish it.
Have to shined a flashlight up the sleeve and taken a look?
If everything checks out, I would really recommend something like this inside the rail.
www.eastwood.com
after I fixed my rails, I sprayed two cans worth inside bolt sides from firewall to bumper.
If everything checks out, I would really recommend something like this inside the rail.
Eastwood Black Internal Frame Coating Aerosol and Nozzle Kit
Internal Frame Coating destroys rust hiding inside the chassis, so it does not rust its way through. You spend time and money restoring a chassis, but what about all that rust inside the frame? Use our Internal Frame Coating to make your chassis rust free
www.eastwood.com
after I fixed my rails, I sprayed two cans worth inside bolt sides from firewall to bumper.
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
LIke mentioned above, while you have it out I would fully coat the inside of those rails with
www.eastwood.com
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Rust Prevention Aerosol
Destroys rust hiding inside the chassis, rocker panels and pillars so it won't rust through
www.eastwood.com
Yep..... sounds about like what I said to myself! Hopefully I’m as lucky as you with no rail damage.
I’ve actually been thinking about doing the rails on my ‘02 F150 to stop the internal rust......... maybe I’ll just buy a bunch of cans from Eastwood, and do it all at once.
If you do use the spray, make sure you are ready to use the can all in one shot. The flexible hose they give you is tough to clean out so it’s usually clogged the next time you go to spray. Eastwood wants $10 for a replacement nozzle hose, plus shipping.
