Progress Thread 2nd Fox Body ...... more brake parts!

Rdub6

Advanced Member
Dec 29, 2017
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ok guys, I prob have a similar story to many of you. Had an 86 GT back in the early 90’s. Fast forward 20 something years, and I now have an 86 LX 5.0. It was fitted with the 87 and up front clip and I’ve just realized that it has 90-93 rear inner hatch panels that have round shock access covers.
The tabs are broken, and I can not find replacements anywhere. All I see are the rectangle covers. Please help!
Thanks in advance and look forward to becoming part of the community!!
 
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Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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Welcome to Stangnet.

Foxresto might be a good site to check for those parts, or good old Ebay.

Are you going to change the front end back to 4i?

Post a picture or two for us. We like pictures here.

Look around our ‘79-‘95 subforums, you’ll get answers to just about anything there.
 

Rdub6

Advanced Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Welcome to Stangnet.

Foxresto might be a good site to check for those parts, or good old Ebay.

Are you going to change the front end back to 4i?

Post a picture or two for us. We like pictures here.

Look around our ‘79-‘95 subforums, you’ll get answers to just about anything there.
Thanks.... I really like the 4i, but that’s down on the list.
I’ve tried just about every site and nobody has the round covers. I sent an email to LMR asking if they were planning on carrying them any time soon.

All the ebay ones I’ve found are missing the same tabs that mine are missing.

Anyway, glad to be here, and here’s some pics of the new ride, and one pic of the Black one I had years ago.

C58ABE76-1162-4CF0-9D74-3FF8B305EFBD.jpeg
B2E8CA43-A13F-41AC-AA27-D5FB25A2ABD7.jpeg
BEE29D99-3D98-43D1-BF88-232F0B1E3629.jpeg
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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Very nice:nice:.

How about I move your thread over to the ‘79-‘95 General Talk subforum. Lots of ther guys will join in, maybe one of them can help you with those covers?:shrug:

The previous owner really did do quite the swap on it. It looks good, though I’m a 4i’d guy myself.
 

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
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Welcome to Stangnet. I have a couple questions about your new 86' Mustang. Are you sure it's an 86'? The rear quarter windows are the 87-93' style. Are these interchangeable? If this really is a 86' then I'd like to kick the previous owner in the nuts. Good luck with your car.
 

mikestang63

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Aug 27, 2012
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Welcome to Stangnet.
Looks like a nice clean car and a good starting point.
You can check Craiglist, Face Book for those parts.
I would also recommend you replace that hot air intake with the stock CAI box, install a set of MM subframe connectors and upgrade to a 3G alternator
 

Davedacarpainter

I think I've messed my pants
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Welcome to Stangnet. I have a couple questions about your new 86' Mustang. Are you sure it's an 86'? The rear quarter windows are the 87-93' style. Are these interchangeable? If this really is a 86' then I'd like to kick the previous owner in the nuts. Good luck with your car.
You can put the '87^ windows in a 4i.
 

Rdub6

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Dec 29, 2017
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Welcome to Stangnet.
Looks like a nice clean car and a good starting point.
You can check Craiglist, Face Book for those parts.
I would also recommend you replace that hot air intake with the stock CAI box, install a set of MM subframe connectors and upgrade to a 3G alternator
I agree with that hot air. I have found the BBK tube without the mass air connection, which will get the filter into the fender well where it belongs.

Frame connectors are definitely on the list as well. Had some Kenny Brown (I think that was the name) on my last years ago.

Why the upgrade on the alternator? What concerns would you have now, to address that right away? Thanks!!
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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Upgrading the alternator and power and ground wires are one of the best upgrades you can do. The electrical system on these cars is underpowered by today's standards.

There also were issues with the stack alternators melting the connectors and causing fires.

The 3g alternator upgrade allows you to run electric cooling fans and headlights at the same time without worrying about the headlights flickering or dimming when the fan is on.

In my case, my camshaft would cause the idle to drop a little idling at traffic lights at night. I'd get that headlight flicker and dimness until I started pulling off from the light. After upgrading the alternator that condition was fixed.
 

Rdub6

Advanced Member
Dec 29, 2017
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Long Island, NY
Upgrading the alternator and power and ground wires are one of the best upgrades you can do. The electrical system on these cars is underpowered by today's standards.

There also were issues with the stack alternators melting the connectors and causing fires.

The 3g alternator upgrade allows you to run electric cooling fans and headlights at the same time without worrying about the headlights flickering or dimming when the fan is on.

In my case, my camshaft would cause the idle to drop a little idling at traffic lights at night. I'd get that headlight flicker and dimness until I started pulling off from the light. After upgrading the alternator that condition was fixed.
So I just replaced the 3 year old battery that was in the car, after trying one last time on with an all day trickle charge. Got one start and it was dead again. (Wal-Mart Neverstart).
When I first got the car, there was a non working alarm, amplifier, and subwoofer in it. I took the alarm out, resoldered the connections that alarm install had cut, and got rid of the amp and subwoofer. I guess it had already done its damage on the battery. I also just ran the part # on the alternator, and its a 60 amp Pep Boys reman.
Having your alternator post in the back of my head, here I am again. How concerned should I be with the 60 amp alternator right now, seeing that there is no additional accessories hooked up, other than what came stock? Thanks!
 

Mustang5L5

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You can survive on a 60amp, but you won't be running many accessories or an Efan or large stereo with it.

It's enough to run the motor and that's about it.
 
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FastDriver

My dad had a bra
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Test your idle voltage anyway, or have an autoparts store test it for you. Running on low voltage will quickly kill electronics and certainly batteries. A healthy system will have around 14v at idle. Anything in the 13s is perfectly adequate. Anything below 12.6 is incapable of fully recharging the battery, regardless of run time. Anything below 12v is going to be problematic for the rest of your electronics.

Money may be tight, and I recognize that you are prioritizing, but just want to point out that you'll cost yourself more in the long run if you accept low voltages.
 
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