300 rwhp safely

HtownGT said:
i would look into the Trickflow kit as stated before. its a good kit with everythign you need except new lifters(i think). they say it makes 320 hp at the fly and 350 tq. which is very respectable and if you have enough suspension mods that will be all you need. unless you are just trying to reach that 300 mark just for pride. i dont know if you have an auto or 5-spd, partly bc i skimmed bc im taking a break from studying for finals. but if you have an auto you might want to look into gettin a 4R70W tranny with a 2200 stall. i believe i found one with a stall for less than 2k then like 150 for shipping and however much for labor.

the kit i think is the easiest way to go bc you get everythign at once and it is all matched. to me that is more important than finding the best parts of each. besides AFR 160s are almost 2k by themsselves. good luck!

I have a 5 speed, do you know if the kit includes TB & MAF, also are lifters a necessity (I'd imagine so)? I have subs, but springs/shocks/struts are on the way soon btw :nice:
 
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A Combo That Should Do It...Safely

Hi,

Okay, here's a list of parts that would do what you are asking in a 3600 lb car with a stock T5 gearing set up (or a Tremec 500):

Custom Chip or Tuneable Computer
Larger MAF (Your Choice)
70mm Throttle Body
Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 intake
AFR 165 Heads
Comp Cams XE266HR Camshaft
BBK or MAC 1 5/8" Long Tube Headers w/Matching H-Pipe or X-Pipe
2.5" Catback System
3.27:1 Gears (To run through the quarter in third, if you don't like to run through in third, around 4.30:1 gears for 4th gear trap)
This set up assumes 275/40R17 Tires (Such as on a 9" Cobra R Rim)

I've run with a guy that put 210,000 on his stock '94 Shortblock while running nitrous and hitting the high twelves. So this combo should be safe and it will be enough to push you through into the twelves if it is driven well enough.

Of course, there's no replacement for displacement so a DSS 3347 stroker would be an excellent alternative and can be used with the above combo and a different gearset: around a 3.90 for 4th gear traps, but an excellent and more accurate choice would be a 3.08 with a tremec 600 running through in third. It would be a combination that, if you were able to plant it, would be as fast as you could run without a cage.
 
hrspwrjunkie said:
Hi,

Okay, here's a list of parts that would do what you are asking in a 3600 lb car with a stock T5 gearing set up (or a Tremec 500):

Custom Chip or Tuneable Computer
Larger MAF (Your Choice)
70mm Throttle Body
Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 intake
AFR 165 Heads
Comp Cams XE266HR Camshaft
BBK or MAC 1 5/8" Long Tube Headers w/Matching H-Pipe or X-Pipe
2.5" Catback System
3.27:1 Gears (To run through the quarter in third, if you don't like to run through in third, around 4.30:1 gears for 4th gear trap)
This set up assumes 275/40R17 Tires (Such as on a 9" Cobra R Rim)

I've run with a guy that put 210,000 on his stock '94 Shortblock while running nitrous and hitting the high twelves. So this combo should be safe and it will be enough to push you through into the twelves if it is driven well enough.

Of course, there's no replacement for displacement so a DSS 3347 stroker would be an excellent alternative and can be used with the above combo and a different gearset: around a 3.90 for 4th gear traps, but an excellent and more accurate choice would be a 3.08 with a tremec 600 running through in third. It would be a combination that, if you were able to plant it, would be as fast as you could run without a cage.


thanks for being so specific, one direction I know I won't be heading in is long tubes, I'm thinking shorty's. Also, I don't plan on running 1/4's regularly at any point, I just want a fast car (so my 3.73's will suffice).

Can anyone chime in on this setup, anyone live in CA and forsee smog problems (with my stock mid-pipe back on of course)??? and as far as heads go, AFR or TF?/aluminum or not?/ I'm guessing porting will be a necessity as well...
 
1 5/8" Shorties should still be fine. You'll be down on power over the long tubes by about 10 or 15 horses. Also, the stock H-pipe won't fly (unless you're talking about putting it on for the smog test only), but since you've already got a BBK, that will do it. The AFRs will require no porting to push 300 horses at the rear wheels with that combination. And they'll have much more velocity through the ports than the Trick Flows, allowing for a much wider and more driveable powerband. The AFRs are definitely the best out of the box head available. And they are smog legal. The cam isn't, but it shouldn't matter, it should be able to pass emissions with it. The 3.73s will make this combo very snappy and fun to take off with.

Also, you'll need a centerforce clutch to handle the power and a different set of injectors among other little odds and ends.

[QUOTE='94ChickStang]thanks for being so specific, one direction I know I won't be heading in is long tubes, I'm thinking shorty's. Also, I don't plan on running 1/4's regularly at any point, I just want a fast car (so my 3.73's will suffice).

Can anyone chime in on this setup, anyone live in CA and forsee smog problems (with my stock mid-pipe back on of course)??? and as far as heads go, AFR or TF?/aluminum or not?/ I'm guessing porting will be a necessity as well...[/QUOTE]
 
hrspwrjunkie said:
Also, you'll need a centerforce clutch to handle the power and a different set of injectors among other little odds and ends.

My KC clutch won't handle it?

Not that it matters too much b/c I'm going to have to gut my b-housing for the 3rd time soon b/c of mother f***ing clutch chatter. This is after 2 fw resurfacings/fork/tob/pivot ect......if anyone wants to chime in on how to once and for all overcome this utter hell.... :bang: :damnit: :fuss: :puke: :OT:
 
wytstang said:
The trick flow kit made over 300 on a 306 not a 302. It would be close I would assume :shrug:

I've seen the trickflow kit with a good tune without smog and with ALL the boltons make 334 rear wheel horsepower! The kit was straight out of the package WITH all the extra boltons. I don't remember his name but he posted it here. I have seen the trickflow kit with almost all boltons over 300rwhp.
 
Did you break in the KC clutch? If you put hard power to it without any sort of break in period, that could do it. I ran one on my '87 with a 347 and it did okay, it was stiff and couldn't handle the power of the Centerforce (the Centerforce doesn't chatter when broken in correctly and pedal effort isn't much different than stock while providing much more holding power). I didn't see you had one because I didn't look. The King Cobra would be fine. Also, the Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 intake will work perfectly for a daily driven application and will effortlessly push the 400 horse mark without porting.

*EDIT* What sort of a flywheel are you using? I don't remember if the KC will work with a cast iron flywheel (like the factory version) I ran mine with a billet steel. If the disc surface isn't meant to work with the flywheel surface, then that will definitely cause the kind of chatter problems you are eluding to.

[QUOTE='94ChickStang]My KC clutch won't handle it?

Not that it matters too much b/c I'm going to have to gut my b-housing for the 3rd time soon b/c of mother f***ing clutch chatter. This is after 2 fw resurfacings/fork/tob/pivot ect......if anyone wants to chime in on how to once and for all overcome this utter hell.... :bang: :damnit: :fuss: :puke: :OT:[/QUOTE]
 
The e-brock rpm was mentioned and for a daily driver not seeing the track much the rpm band in which it operates would not be my chioce. The e-brock performer works from idle to 5,500 would be a better choice. But since it's not a DD it's not a problem all you have to do now is chose a cam and then find an intake/head that compliment your cam of choice.
 
Actually, in the combination I mentioned earlier, with a stock 5.0 bottom end, Comp Cams XE266HR cam, AFR 165 heads and 3.73:1 Gears, a Performer RPM 2 intake will work beautifully. The torque curve is tremendously broad, and the Performer RPM 2 finally puts the EFI engine on par with a carbed engine as far as power output goes. The engine's tune will have to be completely re-done, but the power is incredible even with an engine as small as a 302.

wytstang said:
The e-brock rpm was mentioned and for a daily driver not seeing the track much the rpm band in which it operates would not be my chioce. The e-brock performer works from idle to 5,500 would be a better choice. But since it's not a DD it's not a problem all you have to do now is chose a cam and then find an intake/head that compliment your cam of choice.
 
OK, I've been searching everything including FAQ ect to find which h/c/i combo to go with. A guy I work with says "just go GT 40 kit", but I don't see too many people doing that around here.....I'll take feedback on that statement if possible.

I've been thinking of FTI custom cam, AFR 165 heads, but the problem is the intakes. I want to choose the proper one with the following in mind:
-drivability is key, won't be running 1/4's
-want lower end tq, minimize bucking/idle issues
-NO hood clearence issues, want to keep a strut tower brace
-looking to go 65mm tb, 77 mm Pro M MAF, 24 lb injectors, fuel pump ect...
-1.6 or 1.7 RR's???? clueless but learning
-NEEDS TO BE SMOG LEGAL FOR CA

Does anyone see issues with what I have here so far, safety or otherwise? Will I need anything else obvious on the engine side besides headers/tune? You've all been VERY informative BTW :hail2:
 
[QUOTE='94ChickStang]OK, I've been searching everything including FAQ ect to find which h/c/i combo to go with. A guy I work with says "just go GT 40 kit", but I don't see too many people doing that around here.....I'll take feedback on that statement if possible.[/quote]

The GT40 stuff is based around the Ford GT40 heads and they will make power for sure but the stuff you find on the shelf these days is based on heads that use a different technology. There have been lots of improvements made since then to say the least.

I've been thinking of FTI custom cam, AFR 165 heads, but the problem is the intakes. I want to choose the proper one with the following in mind:
-drivability is key, won't be running 1/4's
-want lower end tq, minimize bucking/idle issues
-NO hood clearence issues, want to keep a strut tower brace
-looking to go 65mm tb, 77 mm Pro M MAF, 24 lb injectors, fuel pump ect...
-1.6 or 1.7 RR's???? clueless but learning
-NEEDS TO BE SMOG LEGAL FOR CA

If you go with Ed he will help you with all of the above. That is another advantage of doing business with Ed, he will let you pick his brain for info about your combo.

The custom cam is key to what dictates the outcome of the combo. Example ...... Usually the rpm intake will make the low end soft but take look at my sig and you don't see that. That is the kind of stuff Ed is so good at. He gave me good power low & high. Remember my high end results were with the stock tb/maf so they are kind of low and somewhat misleading.

If you stress drivability is a must, he will make that happen for you but ...... you will without a doubt leave power on the table by going with this plan. Trust me on this one ...... I wish I would have had him go hotter on the specs but at that time I did not have enough knowledge on what I could accomplish by using my Tweecer.

You can have a good bit more power if you tell him you want as much performance as possible but still be able to pass CA smog. This method will require you to self or Pro tune however.

Does anyone see issues with what I have here so far, safety or otherwise? Will I need anything else obvious on the engine side besides headers/tune? You've all been VERY informative BTW :hail2:

If you go with a Pro M 80 you can save some money but not give up anything in quality.

Living in CA you most likely can't get away with lt's but you still can make plenty of power with shorty's. The advantage of lt's btw, is they really shine in the low to mid rpm range.

Later
Grady