302 carbed setup.

[niklid05]

Well, I'm gonna put a 302 in my notch for now. The motor is out of a 88 MarkVII. It was healthy when the car last ran a year ago. I plan on going with a bean counter setup, because I have very little $$$ coming in. Pretty much looking at used parts. I was wondering what all I need for a 302 carb setup. Its gonna be an occasional weeknight cruiser/weekend toy, once or twice to open track road racing, and take it to the strip a couple of times. No winter driving, no rain 70city/30hwy. Looking for mid 12's-low 13's. No power adders.

hows this?
-3.90's or 4.10's
-used thumpers or used aftermarket heads
-used moderate cam??
-electric fan?
-used 600cfm carb??
-used manifold??
-lightened stock flywheel
-centerforce stage 2 clutch
-tubular k-member and a-arms
-weight reduction
-battery relocation
-rear seat delete

How does that sound?
Thanks for any input/advice

 

[87NOTCH]

Carb set-up

First thing, Don't spend money on things that aren't going to increase performance. Second thing, Cylinder heads and Camshaft are critical. I think you should forget about the tubular k-member and A-arms. These do save some weight, but for your application, I think the money would be better used elsewhere. If you can afford it, go .030 over on the block. This will give you some increased bottom end. You can pick up some Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons pretty reasonably, and they will handle a mild shot of nitrous if you decide to go that route. I would not recommend the Centerforce clutch either. This is a good unit, but you could save alot of money by going with a King Cobra or Motorsport. Either of these will be ideal for your application. For the intake, I would recommend the Edelbrock RPM Airgap. This is a very versatile intake and will make power throught the RPM band. I would go with a Holley 750 Vacuum Secondary carb. You can get a Brand new one for about $250. This will be an excellent street carb and give power when you need it at the track. Cylinder heads and Cam are going to be the most critical part. For the heads, I would recommend AFR or Brodix. The AFR 165's would work very well with the above combo. The Brodix ST5.0 are comparable, but a little more expensive. If money is an issue, The edelbrock Performer RPM heads are real good as well. Do not go over 2.02 on the intake valve size as this will only hurt you with this combo. For the cam shaft, I would recommend calling whatever mfg you are going to use and having them design a cam for your combo and how you plan to drive the car. I highly recommend Anderson Ford Motorsport, they are top notch.

Good luck and remember, spend your money wisely. Get it running good first, then make it look good.


Jon Green

 

[MrKwik]

If you can afford it, go .030 over on the block. This will give you some increased bottom end. You can pick up some Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons pretty reasonably, and they will handle a mild shot of nitrous if you decide to go that route. ............ I would go with a Holley 750 Vacuum Secondary carb. You can get a Brand new one for about $250. This will be an excellent street carb and give power when you need it at the track.
Jon Green

My opinion would be to not bore it unless you need to. If the cylinders are good there is no reason. I have never seen any noticable increase in power from a .030 overbore. Say you have a nice running engine that makes 1hp per cubic inch, those extra cubes will only gwt you an extra 3 or 4 hp. By the time you pay for the machine work, pistons and all that, you would be several hundred dollars into it. That money would be better spent on head work or something that will make a bigger difference. And I dont know anything about those Mark VII motors but if they are the same as a mustang 5.0 HO, it will already have forged pistons.

I have personally found a 750 to be a little bigish for the 5.0. 600 or 650 would be fine, especially if you find a good deal on one.

 

[NosPony]

I would go with

Thumper heads
not a used cam dont know what you are getting sometimes(x303 maybe)
650 double pumper
Victor Jr or Performer RPM intake
5 speed 3.73s or auto 4.10s
for money savings King Cobra Clutch Kit
Relocate battery as stated.

As stated above you dont need the tubular stuff until later.

 

[niklid05]

Well the reason I said tubular k-member and a-arms is because its so easy to acess right now beings the motor and tranny are out. Im looking more towards a handling type of car than a straight line car. I plan on doing homemade subframe connectors.

The reason I said a centerforce stage 2 was because I plan on having a mild 351W once I get the money to rebuild it. I know it will probably tear the t-5 apart but I'm not too worried about that, plus it will be a year or two if I decide to put that in. I just thought the centerforce2 would be able to hold the extra torque. correct if I'm wrong. If I am then Ill go with the king cobra since you guys recomended it.

I thought a 600 would be fine I just wasnt sure what intake to use. Would one of those intake spacers be worth the money? just wondering.

I was thinking more 3.90's and 4.10's Those are my choices as of now because it wont be a daily driver and it wont see too much highway. I was thinking 3.90's because it will see some highway but not too much maybe 40-50 miles of highway a week.

What would a custom cam run me from anderson?

the markVII motors are supposedly the same as the mustang 5.0s, it says H.O. output on the intake lol.

I was also thinking of going manual steering with a quicker ratio. My festiva already has it so I know what Im in for. Will that free up some power?

This build is gonna be over the next 3/4 of a year. So I think it would be somewhat cheap for now. any more input would be wonderful. Your recomendations, and flames are welcome

thanks guys.

 

[niklid05]

anyone with more input?

 

[thumper460]

Stealth Intake.. 750 Vac secondary Holley ( cause of the 4.11s and heads).. mic the block and DONT bore unless you need to ( forged pistons are already there) 83 HO duraspark dizzy with MSD6 box.. carb will Like the X cam installed advanced , DONT lighten the flywheel.. keep the low end torque and make it work for you, dont take it away!! ANY THING you do to make it lighter.. go for it!! weight to HP is a major factor!! Keep stock valve train.. up grade the springs to the cam specs... and have fun!!

Just me..........................

Thumper