302 Valve Lash/Head Help

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by phutch11, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. I'm putting a 93 5.0 in my 65 and I need some help with the heads. I tore them apart to do a home port and polish on them and now that I'm putting them back together, I need to torque down the rocker arms to set the valve lash. Does anyone know the correct torque and/or proper procedure.

    The 5.0 guys didn't offer up any help.

  2. Hydraulic tappets?

    1. Place crank at TDC, compression stroke
    Firing order for 5.0 is 13726548 (verify - that's from memory)
    Both valves for #1 cylinder should be fully closed at this time - check
    2. If you have a drill and oil pump priming rod, pump up the lifters now (run drill motor in reverse) if not, you should disconnect the coil and spin the motor PRIOR to setting the crank at TDC
    3. Place rocker on stud and run the nut down until you feel some resistance. Now, back off the nut a bit, use fingers of one hand to grasp pushrod and turn it. It should turn freely. Tighten nut by hand while spinning pushrod back and forth between two fingers. At about the same time you feel resistance in tightening the nut, you should also feel resistance to turning the pushrod. This is zero lash.
    4. Use wrench to turn nut down an additional 1/2 - 3/4 turn (I use 2/3 turn, but there is no magic in that). If you have locks, hold the nut steady with wrench and tighten allen nut down to lock the nut at this position.
    5. Now, turn crank 90 degrees clockwise and go to rockers for cylinder 3. Repeat 1-4.
    6. Turn crank 90 degrees and go to cylinder 7. Repeat 1-4.
    7. Etc. following firing order. Always verify that both valves are closed prior to adjusting each rocker.

    After you have driven the car a bit, it's a good idea to take off the valve covers and repeat this process with a warmed-up engine. I just finished the second setting of my rockers and found some inconsistency in preload as the initial setting was done cold and, probably, without all lifters pumped up equally.

    I think that about does it.
  3. I do it the same way as SoCalCruising and its pretty easy once you get going. I also tend to go closer to the 3/4 of turn than half to keep them from ticking.
  4. that procedure will work for stud mount heads, provided they are setup for an adjustable valvetrain. However, since, geez, 1968 or so, ford has used non adjustable valvetrains only. The rocker nut is torqued to spec, lash is checked, and if lash isn't correct you have to go to a different length pushrod. Or if using pedestal mount heads, you have the option of shimming the stands. It all depends on what you're working with. If using aftermarket roller rockers, then lash is normally set by adjusting the nut/polylock.

    If the original poster is using E7TE heads,like came stock on his engine, he just needs to torque the pedestal bolts to spec, which should be about 30 ft-lbs IIRC. The bolts MUST be torqued to spec, you do not adjust lash by backing off the bolt, or by tightening it a little more. It just doesn't work that way with this setup. If the lash is off, you'll need different length pushrods, or shims to raise the pedestal. If the heads haven't been milled and stock length pushrods are being used, you'll be ok 99% of the time. You want zero lash, but you should be able to turn the pushrod when the valve is closed. If its too tight it will throw off your lifter preload, to loose has the same effect. You have a reasonable tolerance to work with though.
  5. 302 coupe is right. I was assuming adj. rockers, not pedestal mount.
  6. When the valve is closed, the rocker should press down on and preload the lifter plunger by at most 1/16". Any more and it'll tend to hold the valve open at full oil pressure. Torque for the pedestal bolts is 25 ft/lbs. No special sequence, just bolt em down and torque the bolts.
  7. does anyone know how to set valve lash on a 95 302 w/1.6 pedestal mount rockers?
  8. 1. After removing the necessary accessory brackets and the valve
    covers, remove all stock rocker arm parts, as none will be reused.

    2. Clean the cylinder head surface where the new guide channel will
    sit, and also clean the threaded rocker hold-down bolt holes.

    3. Remove the pushrods, clean and reinstall them, making sure that
    the pushrod is in the lifter seat. Once the pushrod is seated in the
    lifter, we recommend you use a squirt can with engine oil to fill the
    pushrods, one at a time, as you install each rocker arm. This
    insures immediate lubrication of the rocker arm.

    4. Working on one cylinder at a time, turn the engine by hand,
    watching the pushrods. When both pushrods are at their lowest
    point and appear to be at an equal height, you are in the correct
    position to install the cylinder's rocker arms. This will occur when
    the cylinder is at top-dead-center, on its compression stroke.
    Since both pushrods will also be at an equal height, but not as far
    down, when the cylinder is at top-dead-center on the overlap
    stroke, you should rotate the engine twice to insure that you have
    the pushrods at their lowest point.

    5. Install one rocker arm at a time by inserting the 5/16" bolt through
    the top of the rocker arm, MAKING SURE THAT THE FLAT SIDE
    done, slide the pedestal onto the bolt with the curved area of the
    saddle contacting the rounded side of the fulcrum. Next, slide the
    guide channel onto the bolt with the raised edge facing up toward
    the rocker arm, then loosely thread the bolt into the head, while
    making sure that the pedestal is in the channel and the saddle is
    in the correct location on the fulcrum. Refer to the diagrams to
    insure that the rocker arms are properly seated. (To better illustrate
    the correct fulcrum position, the two drawings to the right
    show the fulcrum separately.) Repeat this process with the cylinder's
    other rocker arm.

    6. To check and adjust the lifter preload, turn the bolt by hand until
    there is no clearance between the front roller and the valve stem
    and the pushrod is seated in the rocker arm pushrod seat. Slowly
    torque the bolt to 18-20 ft/lbs. Since you are pushing down the
    plunger in the hydraulic lifter as you torque the bolt, it will probably
    take a minute or two for you to get the correct setting. You
    should be able to turn the bolt between 1/4 & 1 turn before you
    reach the correct torque setting. This will give you the correct lifter
    preload of .020" to .060". If you can turn the bolt more than one
    turn to achieve the proper torque, you will have to shim the
    pedestal. Two different thickness shims are provided for each
    rocker arm to assist you. A thick shim represents approximately
    one turn.
    If you cannot turn the bolt at least 1/4 turn after first contact with
    the roller and valve stem, you will have to install longer pushrods
    to obtain proper hydraulic lifter preload. Pushrods are available in
    different lengths, specifically for this purpose. There are many
    modifications that may have been made to the engine which will
    change the lifter preload, such as a valve job, different camshaft,
    or different thickness head gaskets, and factory tolerances can
    also affect the lifter preload on stock engines.
    Note: You may find that the lifer preload is different between a
    cylinder's intake and exhaust or between one side of the engine
    and the other. Because of this, we recommend you check the
    lifter preload on each rocker arm.

    7. Repeat this process on the remaining cylinders. Make sure that
    each rocker arm is properly seated and torqued into position.

    8. Once completed, place a valve cover on the cylinder head, without
    a gasket or bolts. Hold the valve cover in place by hand and
    rotate the engine, without starting it, and make sure the rocker
    arms do not contact the valve cover. If minor interference occurs,
    this can often be eliminated by using a thick valve cover gasket or
    by modifying the cover or its baffles. Taller, aftermarket valve covers
    will also solve the problem, but make sure they will clear the
    intake assembly and/or any accessory brackets. Intake manifold
    to valve cover clearance can be a problem on engines with factory
    fuel injection. Before installing the valve covers for the final
    time, we recommend that you fill each rocker arm with engine oil
    to insure lubrication during initial start up.
  9. :DThis whole process you've listed here is completely unneccessary for pedestal mount rockers. :nono: