306+what= 325 streetable horsepower

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by mytight95, Sep 3, 2005.

  1. BY the way, I like how you blame me for the 30lb injector thing LOL. Like its my fault you or others can't afford to tune your car. My car starts up just fine with my 30's on my 347 and my 302 too. What injector did Ed tell you to get again? Ahh yes, 30's ;)

    I and others before tuning, have had hot start issues with 24's as well. If the maf ain't perfect (which it not always is) you will have idle issues. Thats hotrodding, deal with it. Don't like it, then stfu and leave it stock :nice:
  2. I am gonna look at that link, but do you think i will need 30# injectors is that what you are saying...... I have 24'd i just bought........


  3. Good point :nice:

    But i will go ahead and say it for David...."thats not gonna be streetable or what i consider a street car". Which may be true....

    But i will say my piece. Im tired of hearing people shoot down ideas that are not their own. Yes. You can go fast(ex. Paul) with 165's and the "smaller" intake/cam selection. But you can also go fast with bigger parts that are PROPERLY designed for eachother. A daily driver or street car is a DIFFERENT definition for EVERY driver. A hardcore drag racer will probably take a car that is a BIT more wild than one of us "street" racers that want a "fast" street car. Get what im saying?

    Bottom line. Everyone has stated their opinions. Now once again, this annoying quoting every word **** to make things look "different" to make yourself look "better" has got to stop. To the original poster...you wanna know how fast you want to go or you want to know what is possible? The one thing EVERYEONE has in common is a custom cam. So figure out who you want to go with and get in touch with them. Ask them what can be done. Describe to them what a "street" or "daily driving" car to YOU is. Forget what everyone else is saying.

    If all these guys were speaking the truth...dont you think they would be designing their own combos and running their own cams? They dont. They know what they know and they speak on it. If no one ever thought "outside" the box that nothing would EVER advance. Push the envelope with your cam designer. Good luck bro :nice:

  4. I had 24's back when i did my h/c/i on my 302 but sold them and came out ahead with 30's. Its been known to say that tuning will be easier with 30's than 24's as 24's will be the end of their line where 30's are just beginning.
  5. Oh by the way...if you go to the cam grinder and ask them what you should buy...most likely you will buy it from them(ed for ex.) and if it doesnt then you have 1 person to blame. Wait no 2 people....whoever built it or whoever designed it.:lol:
  6. I would've already called FTI, but i finally made a solid decision after debating on it Friday. As everyone knows they aren't open on holidays....

    I am tired of having to mess with my car, i want to build a fun, strong, pretty reliable motor and get it over with.

    I have a lx, i will be taking it to the bone, and it will be a blatant drag car i can beat on, and not have to worry about hurting....I figure with a gutted car and the motor that is in mine now, plus a little gas and a carb, it'll be a fun track car

    It's gonna be a joint project between a couple of us friend who have parts laying aorund.....lol

  7. For 325hp, 24's with a tune should work. If you had a pms or a tweecer you can add the fuel where you need it. Read the link, Ed's response says it all. But like I said, if you don't wanna go all out and only want 325hp, the 165's will do it. Just remember, down the road you will wanna go faster. Another reason to buy the bigger head now to support you later AND be perfect now. Win-win situation!!

    I had 24's on my old 302 combo and it ran lean. I tried 2 maf's and it was lean. If I had the PMS with the 24's I could have probably fixed it BUT what would the duty cycle have been? I swapped to 30's and then I was able to reuse them on my 347 (which was not even a thought in my head back then, thus proving my point of buying bigger now and taking you farther down the road) That is one of the things I learned since 5spd was so curious as to what i've learned over the years. Just one of the many things.
  8. cool deal...... i posted over there.....

    lets see some kick backs... I am off tomm. a.m., and i am planning on making some calls........

  9. So you're building a motor for your 95 or the fox body? Why stop at 325hp, thats what i'm curious about? I mean, you're spending a lot of money on your fresh 306, why not shoot for more power?
  10. You know, you don't always need a custom grind cam. Most people don't realize that cam companies have a TON of cams to choose from that don't show up in catalogues. But at this point, you are already spending all the money so I guess it's a toss.
  11. Jason

    I've been watching this thread all along and I still say .................................

    325 to 350rwhp can be done with a pro built 306 that will have very stock like drivability if you take the time to tune it just right.

    I do say that somewhere close to 350rwhp I suspect a 306 cubic inch motor will start to loose those stock like drivability options. The higher the number the less stock like you will be able to tune things IMHO.

    I see the subject of inj's has come up......

    For the kind of rwhp we are talking about, there is no way in the world I could sleep at night knowing I had 24lb injectors feeding a combo like that.

    btw ...... I would do lt's to keep the torque up in the low & mid rpm range.


  12. You agreed with me before, No I AM agreeing with you. Who cares what the ACTUAL HP # is? (eg...Paul)

    Jason, YOU decide....If you want a car that acts "normal" on the road, BUILD it that way...If not, build it more aggressive. Your original question really relates to HP, but while youre building the car, YOU decide..

    Since I may have to do my new engine next year or so, I plan to keep the Vortech, and build a 331. Is my Typhoon the best intake...H3LL no, But Im keeping it to save a few $$ and it will work.. Likewise the 70mm TB may not be the best (OMG....DId I say that? :rlaugh: ), and stock diameter exhaust and shorty headers are not the best. A Vortech 331 can make mid-high 500's (Eades). I want to safely make mid high 400's. I love these HP debates, because in a way EVERYONE is right, according to how theyre thinking....bottom line is each person needs to decide if they want more power mods and tune things down, or take things as basic as possible and get the most of everything.

    Good Luck
  13. Well said :flag:
  14. I agree, and the build will commence tommorrow when the block and the rods are dropped at the machine shop....... I will talk more in dept with out local guy he has built some serious street cars of my friends. so i will start with all my options from there on......

    RC, i appreciate the imput, and understand if everyone opinions are different. I was just wondering if the general concept was doable.....And from replies and what i have been reading this weekend in tech articles etc. it seems easily reachable with the right parts.... without it having to be tuned to the ragged edge......

  15. It's ok...Still waiting for that radiator reservoir bracket, so I can chrome it...


  16. I am NOT horsepower crazy, i have driven some really quick rides before, even long term.... I drove a truck of my dads that is a 383 stroker making around 450 to the tires....... It is fun but not all the time.... He also has a 69 ss and such as that. He DOESN"T drive them. I don't want my car to wind up like that.

    I don't have much local competition no way, if i want to play it won't take much to play with the locals......Only thing i have considered changing so far is the pistons, going with forged so i can spray it if it ever becomes neccessary...... but i doubt i will do that....

    The motor will be for my 95.... the lx will be another project....it's rough right now.. my "street car" comes first....

    my definition of street car:

    about 10k miles a year

    500-1k mile road trips twice a year(two event i attend every year)

    decent mileage, 15 or so....

    street manners (no bucking etc in gears, no idle issues, reliable if i want to go somewher i don't have to worrie about trailering it home) All issues i have solved with the current combo with tuning........

    pretty much a weekend car i can drive to work if i want once in a while.... I also have my truck so this is not a daily driver concern....been retired from that for a while...... hence no a/c, smog, etc.......

    thanks for all the help,


  17. my bottle wouldn't fit where i wanted it so i had to use it........i tried to put it on the front side of the radiator, kinda mounted diagonally........ it was loosing coolant, because of the angle....

  18. It appears you happened to get convienent amnesia on that thread? Did you some how skip these words spoken by the man himself:

    "5tq spike down low" He didn't say across the board nor did he supply any "boarded" numbers. He said it was a spike and he gave peak numbers. I hope you know it isn't all about peak, right?

    "I did lose throttle response" Let me guess you just skipped right over that by accident. Why do you only give pros? Who do you work for?

    Where you hoping it wouldn't read the thread and go by your word?

    So does having a certain amount of power in one's car make you an expert? Who helped with the thoughts...was it all by theirself? That is what I thought.
  19. I'm glad you like it...you have cost people thousands of dollars. Literally. You need to tell people with a tune that 30's would be better. If you are not able to or not in an area for a tune (like me) that is practical 24's would suit the combo.

    Yeah Ed told me get 30's with a tune :nice: Forget that? So does everyone have a dyno in their immediate area? Can people take a road trip whenver to get a dyno tune?

    You know good and well...easily that many more people have had much more problems with 30's (myself included). I have rarely seen any 24's having a problem. You know that. I'll do a search and get you some of those threads...trust me...it wouldn't take long :p

    I know one of your MAF's wasn't even calibrated for the right injectors...so again you brought up another bad point. Do you think I have that bad of memory...nah... :nice:

    Stock...boohoo. These 3-400rwhp cars are slow anyways...I've road in cars with much more power...so I'm going to add a "little" power (3-400rwhp).

    It isn't all about hotrodding...and if 300-400rwhp is a "hotrod"...well okay :p