331 or 347??

ProKiller said:
what would you suggest for a supercharged engine. I was lookin at DSS for a 331 short block b/c the 347 said for "mild boost" which makes me a little bit nervous about it. I plan on running something in the area of 15#s. what you guys think?

Which one of the 331 were you looking at? I know they make a bullet, pro bullet and super pro bullet short block. I say for 15#'s the pro bullet might work, but you may want to spend the extra dollars on the super pro bullet. I've heard pretty good things about DSS.
 
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A stroker plus a blower is flirting with disaster of a split block if a stock block is used. It doesn't matter if its bullit, pro bullit, etc.... the block will split before the rods and crank leave go. I've often wondered why guys put all this top of the line forged stuff in the stock block... the block will fail first.
 
Killercanary said:
A stroker plus a blower is flirting with disaster of a split block if a stock block is used. It doesn't matter if its bullit, pro bullit, etc.... the block will split before the rods and crank leave go. I've often wondered why guys put all this top of the line forged stuff in the stock block... the block will fail first.

That's why with my limited funds and a planned S-Trim, I'm just throwing a cheapo shortblock in it (thinking about those <$2000 X2C 331's) and listen for the ticking :rlaugh:

J
 
id say go with a nice 331

the problem with the 347s is that the wrist pin is actually IN the oil control ring. all the 347s have this problem, there is nothing you can do about it. Another problem is the stress on the cylinder walls, and block clearancing. It will end up costing alot more money and you get a less durable engine. i got my 331 for $979.00 with a 0 balance and no block clearancing. total project costed me less than $2,000, including machine work other misc parts.
 
gxnos - 347 pistons often do have the wrist pin intersecting the oil ring, but almost any modern piston designed for a 347 has a relocated wrist pin, or some form of oil support rail in the oil ring to correct this problem. It is an old problem which is mostly just a rumor today. 347 strokers say 10 or 15 years ago(or something like that) were based off a ground down 351C crank and utilized standard or overbored pistons which had the oiling issues you hear about now. Probe and SRP both make pistons which are used in the most common 347 kits which do not have any oiling issues.

As far as stress on the cylinder walls, a 347 does have a higher rod ratio which CAN lead to this. However, as long as your motor is assembled correctly and professionally, you will use a torque plate to simulate this stress while the block is overbored. Also, a 347 will often make power at lower RPMs than a 331, which helps to further reduce stress. I'm not saying this is always the case. Every motor is different.

"Block clearancing" can be done with a dremel tool or other grinder in probably an hour or so. I think my machine shop threw that work in for free when they assembled the rest of my 347 stroker. It is simply notching the skirts of the cylinder, and sometimes has to be done with a 331 as well. This is also often dependent on whether you use I-beam or H-beam connecting rods.

Please don't take this as a "347's are way super better than 331's!" post because that's not what I am implying. I just want people to realize that both motors will make great power as long as they are WELL BUILT. There are so many rumors about 347's that it's hard for anyone to find out the truth. The most important factor in building any stroker motor is to have it done professionally to tight tolerances.
 
moneypit94 said:
that would exlpain why i could really only find it on one website. Could be that they have some left over too?

Last I heard, Ford is still making them but they only fire up the molds once a year and for a limited run. Since the aluminum blocks are cost prohibitive, it's more financially wise for Ford to do a run once a year along with all the rest of the aluminum blocks.

However, if it is true that Ford dropped them from the line up, fret not. Dart is producing them alongside their iron blocks. The Dart and Ford blocks are similarly priced and weight/strength is near equal as well.

Once I start my motor, I'll be going with the F302 (or Dart's version). And it will be a 347 minimum. I might research the work involved in taking that ford block out a few more cubes though... :D
 
If I had to do it over again I would go with the 331. I built a 347, I love it but for reliability and a daily driver the 331 would most likely apply better. The 347's tend to burn oil more also. I go through about 1 qaurt every 1000 to 1500 miles, depending on driving-city or highway.
Just my .02
Jeff
 
BeenStroked said:
If I had to do it over again I would go with the 331. I built a 347, I love it but for reliability and a daily driver the 331 would most likely apply better. The 347's tend to burn oil more also. I go through about 1 qaurt every 1000 to 1500 miles, depending on driving-city or highway.
Just my .02
Jeff

Properly built 347's shouldn't burn any oil. The fact that all 347's burn oil was perpetuated back in the day when the piston ring intersected the oil ring land. Nowadays it isn't an issue.

Assuming that you didn't get a POS stroker setup, I'd look elsewhere for your missing oil.
 
67stang390 said:
gxnos - 347 pistons often do have the wrist pin intersecting the oil ring, but almost any modern piston designed for a 347 has a relocated wrist pin, or some form of oil support rail in the oil ring to correct this problem. It is an old problem which is mostly just a rumor today. 347 strokers say 10 or 15 years ago(or something like that) were based off a ground down 351C crank and utilized standard or overbored pistons which had the oiling issues you hear about now. Probe and SRP both make pistons which are used in the most common 347 kits which do not have any oiling issues.

As far as stress on the cylinder walls, a 347 does have a higher rod ratio which CAN lead to this. However, as long as your motor is assembled correctly and professionally, you will use a torque plate to simulate this stress while the block is overbored. Also, a 347 will often make power at lower RPMs than a 331, which helps to further reduce stress. I'm not saying this is always the case. Every motor is different.

"Block clearancing" can be done with a dremel tool or other grinder in probably an hour or so. I think my machine shop threw that work in for free when they assembled the rest of my 347 stroker. It is simply notching the skirts of the cylinder, and sometimes has to be done with a 331 as well. This is also often dependent on whether you use I-beam or H-beam connecting rods.

Please don't take this as a "347's are way super better than 331's!" post because that's not what I am implying. I just want people to realize that both motors will make great power as long as they are WELL BUILT. There are so many rumors about 347's that it's hard for anyone to find out the truth. The most important factor in building any stroker motor is to have it done professionally to tight tolerances.


....I agree

I just heard about all these new kits that have oil problems that arent supposed to.
 
baglock1 said:
Properly built 347's shouldn't burn any oil. The fact that all 347's burn oil was perpetuated back in the day when the piston ring intersected the oil ring land. Nowadays it isn't an issue.

Assuming that you didn't get a POS stroker setup, I'd look elsewhere for your missing oil.

"Nowadays it isn't an issue"- how long ago are you talking that this was a problem with the 347's?
 
BeenStroked - See my post. 347's burned oil when they first were designed to use a ground down 351C crank. Companies didn't yet make a piston to account for the longer rod and shorter piston. I don't know the exact date they started to correct this problem, but I would say in the last 10 years or so.
 
67stang390 said:
BeenStroked - See my post. 347's burned oil when they first were designed to use a ground down 351C crank. Companies didn't yet make a piston to account for the longer rod and shorter piston. I don't know the exact date they started to correct this problem, but I would say in the last 10 years or so.

If memory serves, I think the first pistons specifically designed for the 347 came out in the mid 90's. The first time I saw them was right after I built the 5.0L for my ranger. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I Am going to go with a DSS 306 or 331 motor. I want to build the motor and have it in the car for next summer but eventually I want to throw some sort of power adder. What I am looking for is an occasional driver that can run into the 11 second range. I thought i was going to start this project aftet the first of theyear but it looks like i may get started as early as next week. Anyone from the Philly/Harrisburg Area of PA..stop by have a few beers, see what I'm up to :banana: :rolleyes:
 
Its up to you how many miles you want to run regular oui. Id say at least 500. Then break open the fuel filter and look for any metal shaving of any kind. After that, throw in some synthetic oil and have some fun.