347 Build Non Block/chi Costs

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 6ScubA9, Dec 18, 2013.

  1. Hello. I'm starting my plans for an engine build for a 92 gt hatch. So far my searches in this topic have all been answered by " what are your goals", "you need to choose your hci" etc. and then get off topic arguing with each other and never answering the questions. So let's assume I've got a block, twisted wedge (most common size) heads, a trickflow r series intake, and will have a custom cam cut. What else does one need to buy/have the shop buy to complete the build? How much would having a shop build the motor cost?

    What extra costs will I incur using a boss302 block I wouldn't have getting one from fordstrokers etc?

    Also, what do I need to upgrade suspension/chassis wise to support 400hp? My car has lowering springs that are pretty stiff that's about it as far as I can tell.

    I'm looking at a year for an engine build. I'm sure I left out valuable info here, not so mechanically inclined so take it easy on me lol. And thanks in advance!
  2. If you're going aftermarket block I recommend a Dart machinery SHP block. It's their cheapest one and costs about the same as a boss. It's a better block(the boss is ok). For a built shortblock it runs around 4500$ I know that Ford Strokers can do a Dart long block with cam,tfs heads,oil pan assembly,timin cover,etc for around 10k. Suspension needs to be tweaked. You need sub frame connectors,torque box reinforcement(where the rear controll arms connect to the body),new rear controll arms,and I recommend some struts and shocks. Are you using the car mostly on the street?strip?auto cross-street course racing? More info needed for more detailed recommendations.
  3. Dang so no matter which way I go I'm lookin at 10k. I was hoping for 7k installed in my car, 350+ to the wheels and be good for a decent boost once I get my feet wet. Right now it's my daily driver (don't drive much now) but after I'll probably drive it less. Maybe take it to the local strip for some fun once I. A while. Otherwise I just want a FUN cruiser.
  4. If you really NEVER go over 500 hp a stock block is good. Seriously though getting a complete stroker up and running will cost all of 7k(even a stock block). Machine work on a stock block will run around 500$. Heads with valvetrain will run 1500-2500$ Depending on which ones you use. Cam,timing chain,etc will be roughly 500$. Rotating assembly is 900-1400$ Again depending on brands. Gaskets,bolts,oil pump/pan,balancer,flywheel,water pump,etc it all adds up. And then you have to assemble/install it. Plus your EFI upgrades with fuel and ign systems. If you can do the work yourself you can build a stock block 347 shortblock with cam,oil pan,balancer,water pump etc for 2.5k
  5. Fasteners, harmonic damper, flex plate or fly wheel (most strokers will be 28oz or 0 so you'll need these) in, Maf, tb, rocker arms, lifters (different design depending on the block picked), oil pan to clear 4 bolt caps.

    If your looking at a power adder I'd step up to a DART Sportsman over the weaker SHP... Not a huge Boss block fan personally. Rotating assembly will be $1400+ for all forged, quality branded parts no sense stuffing anything less in a dart block.

    If I can help let me know...

    6ScubA9 likes this.
  6. I'm not gonna go over 500 for sure. I'm looking for a little longevity in my investment. So just getting the block that's in there worked can handle 450 hp? Or 400 with mild boost?
  7. 500hp is the general rule of thumb I tell customers....some take more, some take less. I'd put a cast crank stroker shortblock combo that is $2000 assembled and those internals will take 600hp more then the block. If you have the money and plan for more power down the road then a $4600 Dart based shortblock makes sense
  8. Is
    Isn't a SHP good to around 1000hp? I know the sportsman is better but I've been told the SHP is good for 1000hp or so
  9. Yeah super chargers are cool but anything over 500 isn't going to applicable to playin around town. Cast crank stroker short block for 2k, what's that mean?

  10. Kinda..lol I'd do a SHP on a high HP NA setup or maybe even a turbo but on a centrifugal blower of rather see a Sportsman or Iron Eagle. Dart says 600hp on a SHP, they are made from different material and have different main caps and fasteners.

    When your spending that much $$ on a block stepping up to a Sportsman IMO is worth every penny for the future
    A5literMan likes this.
  11. He's talking about a cast steel crankshaft instead of a forged steel crank stroked for a 347. Stock block built motor. If you are sure you're not going to turn the juice up to block splitting territory a cast crank is fine. They usually last beyond what the block is capable of handling.
    mikestang63 and 6ScubA9 like this.
  12. Correct....took the words right out of my mouth
    A5literMan likes this.
  13. Once you start pushing over 400hp on a stock block, you takes your chances. Personally, I don't see much value in putting high dollar internals in a stock block motor. Put the money in the heads as that is where the power is. Just run it till it breaks and spend another $250 for another JY explorer motor. lol
    88LX5.Oh likes this.
  14. How long can I expect this motor to last? The block I was planning on using (so far after minimal research) is the fordstroker 347 liberator, twisted wedge heads 190 (fordstroker), and a trickflow r intake. Good combo? Gonna run more than 10k all said and done?
  15. If it's a dart liberator then yes 10+k. Stock block liberator is about 8k. If you do go with a dart block go with the big bore 363(same stroke as a 347) that block still has some left in it if you ever need to bore it again.
  16. For the block with complete foxbody application and timing chain is 4k. Plus 2k for the heads and 700 I think for the intake. Figure $300 for a cam. We're at 7k. You think it would be more than 3k for the extra misc parts I don't know about to finish the build, have someone build it and slap her in the ol pony?
    Here is the block: http://www.fordstrokers.com/fordstr...blocks/347-liberator-stroker-short-block.html
  17. Side note: a solid number people seem to roll with in a stock block is around 500hp. Let's say I bring my engine to 400. What time frame should I expect my block to crack and would my top end still be useable thereafter? Would it just be the block that is busted so a crankshaft, pushrods, heads cam etc still be good? Oh, my odo says 130k but doesn't work haha.
  18. Keep in mind that a Fordstrokers build is usually many months out. They dont start it until they've got your payment as well. I believe Rick can do a pretty quick turnaround time if it makes a difference.
  19. Usually if it does start to crack you'll hear/see things like oil pressure dropping,weird vibration/sounds,etc before they blow apart completely. Not always. Sometimes they just let loose. If it does happen your topend should be fine. Rotating assembly...not so much but again if caught in time it'll be ok too. At 400 hp the block should last along time. Rpms are the biggest killer of these blocks. Keep it below 6500 rpm,500hp,and have a good tune(no detonation for example) it should last until you either get tired of it or have $$ to upgrade to a dart block. Woody builds top notch stuff. He's going to build mine(so I'm biased):rolleyes: Mostly because of his reputation and he's close to me(I can pick it up when it's done):jester:
    6ScubA9 and mikestang63 like this.
  20. Plan on bigger MAS,inj,fuel pump,fuel press regulator,throttle body,headers,misc little extras. So if you do budget 10k I think you'll be fine. If you want to do this a lot cheaper you might want to do what mike said above. A topend kit on a junkyard gt40 motor is very cheap and can make good everyday power. I personally think I'd add a dart block to any 302 based build. The extra money is well spent.
    6ScubA9 likes this.