347 Finally Runs!!!
- Thread starter VibrantRedGT
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Just don't want to mess with it right now since everything is running great. Plus I'm too lazy to learn how to use it.
Good Job Joe!!
I havent touched my car in weeks, except for starting it up to drive around the block. I got all this Christmas stuff and Pinewood derby season...After the holidays, need to get the odo/speedo fixed, then start planning for the engine the following year.
RC
I havent touched my car in weeks, except for starting it up to drive around the block. I got all this Christmas stuff and Pinewood derby season...After the holidays, need to get the odo/speedo fixed, then start planning for the engine the following year.
RC
Grn92LX said:
No I still have the older black box style one. I never did order the Nintendo style model because other stuff came up.
Numbles
Active Member
Hey vib. What cam are you running. And what do you think this motor will put out compared to the old one.
Dan.
Dan.
pleasehelp
New Member
I haven't read through the whole thread but Vib, what kind of exhaust tips do you have on the car?? Looks nice. Numbles, long time no see. What happened to your SN95?
Numbles
Active Member
pleasehelp-Totaled and then parted out. Got a notch. When my new motor is in ill be posting up a progress thread with vids and stuff.
Vib, have you thought about upgrading to the nintendo style PMS. I thought its only a marginal cost compared to ordering it all because you already have a older style PMS.
Vib, have you thought about upgrading to the nintendo style PMS. I thought its only a marginal cost compared to ordering it all because you already have a older style PMS.
Davin
Founding Member
The cam is from Comp and its a special grind for our computer. Its a split lift .533/.544 and split duration with an LSA of 114.
This motor won't be as powerfull as my old 302/Vortech set up. Probably about 90HP less.
The exhaust is from MAC. LT 1 3/4 ceramic, 3 inch prochamber, 3 inch cat back with 3 inch chrome tips.
I will be upgrading to the Nintendo style controller for the PMS shortly.
Ok, my seats are out of the car and I'm going to install the PMS now. I just have no idea how to use it. I do have the book but I'll guess I need to head over to stangtuning.com for a generic tune.
This motor won't be as powerfull as my old 302/Vortech set up. Probably about 90HP less.
The exhaust is from MAC. LT 1 3/4 ceramic, 3 inch prochamber, 3 inch cat back with 3 inch chrome tips.
I will be upgrading to the Nintendo style controller for the PMS shortly.
Ok, my seats are out of the car and I'm going to install the PMS now. I just have no idea how to use it. I do have the book but I'll guess I need to head over to stangtuning.com for a generic tune.
VibrantRedGT said:
Joe, Ill bet it's not that much different..more like 50-60 HP less Im guessing, but I bet it will feel as good or better when you ARE able to get on it!!
RC
I'm just guessing so it could be more or less for all I know. I haven't shifted it past 3000 rpm yet and after that is where it starts to make power.
Yup plastic 80MM by Pro-M and 30's.
I've read the basic set up instructions in the book. Other then that I'm clueless. If you have detailed instructions I'll take them.
I've read the basic set up instructions in the book. Other then that I'm clueless. If you have detailed instructions I'll take them.
I don't have any instructions. I talked to Troy and Gary on AIM and they helped me when I got stuck. If you bought it used you'll have to zero everything out and save it to the data set. There are 3 data sets (3 tunes) When you zero it out, you'll become familiar with it. Just start playing with the buttons and seeing what they do. You won't mess anything up because you can just turn the ignition off and it'll go back to the old settings as long as you didn't save anything.
After its all zero'd out i'd start by getting it to idle perfectly at all times. Including cold starts and hot starts. Play with cranking fuel if needed in menu 1. If its lean on a cold start and hard to keep it running add in some cold compensation fuel in menu 8. +30% works for me. I think I run +10* timing at idle.
Do you have a datalogging wideband?
Are you seriouss, you haven't taken it past 3k yet?
Mine saw 5k rpm by the time it had 2 miles on it 
After its all zero'd out i'd start by getting it to idle perfectly at all times. Including cold starts and hot starts. Play with cranking fuel if needed in menu 1. If its lean on a cold start and hard to keep it running add in some cold compensation fuel in menu 8. +30% works for me. I think I run +10* timing at idle.
Do you have a datalogging wideband?
Are you seriouss, you haven't taken it past 3k yet?
Mine saw 5k rpm by the time it had 2 miles on it
Yup, have 145 miles on it and 3K has been about it. Keep in mind my front end is real shady right now. I've changed the K-member, struts, caster/camber plates and tie rods. I've lined everything up by sight but it floats pretty good as the MPH increases.
Hit me up on AIM sometime.
No wideband yet. C'mon I just got is started a few days ago.
I did buy it used but I don't think it was on the car. The guy bought a Tweecer and decided to sell this.
Its all hooked up right now. I bolted it under the passenger seat and ran all the wires through the carpet. I have the hand held velcro right by the key. Can pull it off and hang it up. Haven't started the car though.
Hit me up on AIM sometime.
No wideband yet. C'mon I just got is started a few days ago.
I did buy it used but I don't think it was on the car. The guy bought a Tweecer and decided to sell this.
Its all hooked up right now. I bolted it under the passenger seat and ran all the wires through the carpet. I have the hand held velcro right by the key. Can pull it off and hang it up. Haven't started the car though.
Redsnk95
Founding Member
So far I'm very pleased. I still haven't beat on it yet but all the bugs seem to be gone. I had an oil leak by the distributor a few days ago but I added another 100 miles to the motor and the oil has not come back. Air bag code 12 won't go away. I changed the fuse but it didn't fix it. Car idles and runs like a champ. I have the PMS laying in there but not hooked up at the kick panel. Since I have no clue how to work it I haven't went all the way with it.
Redsnk95
Founding Member
SeventyMach1
Keep it lubed .... keep it straight .... and keep
Hey Joe .... since you've replaced the 10A fuse already .... what code is it throwing now? Is it still a 12? If it is, then the problem wasn't fixed. If it's a 52 or higher, it is fixed .... you just need to clear the code.
If you're still getting a code 12 and your fuse is still good ..... you may want to check all the wiring that connects to pin 13 and pin 14 on your ADM. Good luck, it's a ***** to get to. In case you don't know .... it is a blue box located beneath the radio / behind shifter.
And congrats on the progress of your engine build / install!
If you're still getting a code 12 and your fuse is still good ..... you may want to check all the wiring that connects to pin 13 and pin 14 on your ADM. Good luck, it's a ***** to get to. In case you don't know .... it is a blue box located beneath the radio / behind shifter.
And congrats on the progress of your engine build / install!
Similar threads
