347 in and running

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Grn92LX, Jul 6, 2005.

  1. are you done putting that motor together yet?????
  2. congrats man i bet that thing is a monster can wait to get my gt back together. :banana:
  3. I found the vacuum leak today. Its at the lower intake. I'm gonna retorque it and see if that fixes it. If not, i'm thinking that its because of the ehads being milled and block being zero deck that the intake doesn't line up 100% and may need to be milled. The car is throwing lean codes and I have a check engine light at idle. The car idles high too about 1200rpm. Hopefully once I fix the vacuum leak, the idle will drop and the check engine light will go away. Then I can start tuning.

    I changed the oil today and I took it for a drive. It will start up and idle fine with no surging or stalling.

    I was giving it some 4-5k rpm pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and letting it come down in gear.

    Tomorrow i'm gonna retorque the lower intake and go over all the bolts on the engine and trans to check for tightness.
  4. Sweet ricer style air filter. :rlaugh:
  5. Alright, little update.

    I retorqued the lower intake. While i had the upper off I realized I forgot to plug 1 vacuum port so that was another vacuum leak I had. I fixed that and I also deleted that 1 vacuum line on the upper that runs from one port on the upper to another port on the upper.

    Driveability is improved from fixing the vacuum leaks.

    I did a 2nd gear WOT pull to around 5000-5500 and looked @ my wideband. Its running too rich up top. The a/f goes from a mid 12 to into the 11's. I gotta tune that.

    It runs a little hotter than my 302 did. I dunno if its due to the more power and compression or maybe my radiator got rotted out while it sat for months. It was hot and humid tonight though. It doesn't over heat or even come close to over heating. Runs around 190*. I could probably run extra water instead of antifreeze. I don't think it needs to be burped but i'll try.
  6. A fresh build will have a bit more friction until it is broken in ... other culprits could be a poor tune, rough weather, poor coolant circulation etc. Also a 347 does create a little more heat. :nice:

    I would re-set the timing, dial in a/f settings, re-check for vac leaks and then see how it goes ... I don't think it's a cooling issue.
  7. I have the timing set to 10* at the distributer. All my timing advice is in the PMS and eec. Anything over 4000rpm is all in the PMS. My idle and cruise a/f is a bit lean. I will richen it up a little next time I drive it. It doesn't over heat or even come close to over heating. I just notice it runs a little hotter than my 302 did. It was very hot and humid tonight though. Its comming along.
  8. With this summer heat, I guess you could do what you said and run a little more watter in the rad. Also, since it sat, have you flushed it out? Im sure that will help a little too.

  9. maybe you could try some of that water wetter in the rad to cool it down a bit more. Otherwise congrats on the new motor!
  10. 190* is like perfect
  11. 180 :nice:
  12. 180 is barely operating temp, thats when my t-stat opens.
    190 is perfect Mike, specially for your motor.
  13. what alterations do you have done to your belt drive? mine has no ac and no smog pump....but it looks like your powersteering sits a little higher than mine
  14. Hey Grn92LX,

    What crossover pipe are you using downstream of your BBK LT's? I am having fit-up problems with my BBK LT's and the "matching" BBK x-pipe (w/ cats). The x-pipe inlets are almost 2" farther apart than the header outlets. I have a recent post on this problem.
  15. Modular2v, I run the ford racing a/c delete kit that brings the power steering up to near where the a/c compressor used to be. I don't run the fugly march free wheeling a/c delete kit that keeps the ps in the stock location.

    Misl302, I had to give my H pipe a little bend to make it fit my 1 3/4" bbk longtubes. I used that same H pipe on the 1 5/8" bbk longtubes I had and it fit fine. Give it a little bend and have a friend help you line it up.
  16. I would have to bend each of the 2 x-pipe inlet legs 1". Those legs are a bit short for that much bending. I might take it to shop for modification.

    By the way, congrats on the 347!
  17. Another update:

    I did a nice 2nd gear to 4th gear pull on the street. I datalogged my pull and loaded it up to my computer. The a/f is a bit rich for sure. Its mostly in the low 12's across, but it dips into the 11.8:1 range in a few spots. I gotta lean it out best I can so its around 12.8-13.0.There should be a few hp to be gained there. I guess over all the a/f tune isn't too terrible unlike how my old 302 was. Once I dial in my a/f, i'll try a few more *'s of timing.

    I've only taken it to like 5500-6000, I haven't pulled it to 6600 yet. Once I tune it and take it to a 6600 shift, it should feel nice :D
  18. You have a guess yet on the HP or potential track times?

  19. On 16" drag radials i'd like to break into the 11's @ 118+. I need more gear and i'm hoping to do 4.10's down the road. With the right gear (4.10-4.30) and a 6000 rpm launch I can see it going 11.00's but that'll never happen. Hell, if I can run 11.99999 @ 118+ I will smile :) I can tell you from a light when i punch it hard, it hooks. I know when my car hooks because my radio always falls out :D

    For dyno power, i'd guess 375-380rwhp.

    I did some more tuning and datalogging today. I just need to hook up my rpm converter for my wideband so my a/f will show with rpm. This way I know exactly where to make changes. I been lazy though.
  20. Well let us know when you get some more info on that ( I know you will)

    Im sure you want everything running safely though before you do that.