347 in and running
- Thread starter Grn92LX
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I found the vacuum leak today. Its at the lower intake. I'm gonna retorque it and see if that fixes it. If not, i'm thinking that its because of the ehads being milled and block being zero deck that the intake doesn't line up 100% and may need to be milled. The car is throwing lean codes and I have a check engine light at idle. The car idles high too about 1200rpm. Hopefully once I fix the vacuum leak, the idle will drop and the check engine light will go away. Then I can start tuning.
I changed the oil today and I took it for a drive. It will start up and idle fine with no surging or stalling.
I was giving it some 4-5k rpm pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and letting it come down in gear.
Tomorrow i'm gonna retorque the lower intake and go over all the bolts on the engine and trans to check for tightness.
I changed the oil today and I took it for a drive. It will start up and idle fine with no surging or stalling.
I was giving it some 4-5k rpm pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear and letting it come down in gear.
Tomorrow i'm gonna retorque the lower intake and go over all the bolts on the engine and trans to check for tightness.
Alright, little update.
I retorqued the lower intake. While i had the upper off I realized I forgot to plug 1 vacuum port so that was another vacuum leak I had. I fixed that and I also deleted that 1 vacuum line on the upper that runs from one port on the upper to another port on the upper.
Driveability is improved from fixing the vacuum leaks.
I did a 2nd gear WOT pull to around 5000-5500 and looked @ my wideband. Its running too rich up top. The a/f goes from a mid 12 to into the 11's. I gotta tune that.
It runs a little hotter than my 302 did. I dunno if its due to the more power and compression or maybe my radiator got rotted out while it sat for months. It was hot and humid tonight though. It doesn't over heat or even come close to over heating. Runs around 190*. I could probably run extra water instead of antifreeze. I don't think it needs to be burped but i'll try.
I retorqued the lower intake. While i had the upper off I realized I forgot to plug 1 vacuum port so that was another vacuum leak I had. I fixed that and I also deleted that 1 vacuum line on the upper that runs from one port on the upper to another port on the upper.
Driveability is improved from fixing the vacuum leaks.
I did a 2nd gear WOT pull to around 5000-5500 and looked @ my wideband. Its running too rich up top. The a/f goes from a mid 12 to into the 11's. I gotta tune that.
It runs a little hotter than my 302 did. I dunno if its due to the more power and compression or maybe my radiator got rotted out while it sat for months. It was hot and humid tonight though. It doesn't over heat or even come close to over heating. Runs around 190*. I could probably run extra water instead of antifreeze. I don't think it needs to be burped but i'll try.
89CopCoupe
Banned
Grn92LX said:
A fresh build will have a bit more friction until it is broken in ... other culprits could be a poor tune, rough weather, poor coolant circulation etc. Also a 347 does create a little more heat.
I would re-set the timing, dial in a/f settings, re-check for vac leaks and then see how it goes ... I don't think it's a cooling issue.
I have the timing set to 10* at the distributer. All my timing advice is in the PMS and eec. Anything over 4000rpm is all in the PMS. My idle and cruise a/f is a bit lean. I will richen it up a little next time I drive it. It doesn't over heat or even come close to over heating. I just notice it runs a little hotter than my 302 did. It was very hot and humid tonight though. Its comming along.
With this summer heat, I guess you could do what you said and run a little more watter in the rad. Also, since it sat, have you flushed it out? Im sure that will help a little too.
RC
RC
ram360
Founding Member
maybe you could try some of that water wetter in the rad to cool it down a bit more. Otherwise congrats on the new motor!
bobbys9350
New Member
- Mar 30, 2005
- 472
- 0
- 0
what alterations do you have done to your belt drive? mine has no ac and no smog pump....but it looks like your powersteering sits a little higher than mineGrn92LX said:Got it from autozone. Its a goodyear gatorback belt part # 4060715
Just remember I have a 3G alternator and under drive pulleys so it might not be 100% exact. This belt is a tight fit.
90notch, yes i'm keeping the stroker, no blower for me
Its pouring rain today so I didn't work on it. I picked up some carb cleaner so hopefully I can find this vacuum leak. I'm probbaly gonna pull the upper intake off and delete that 1 vacuum line that goes from 1 port on the upper to another port on the upper. It looks useless to me and if I don't remove it its gonna melt since its siting between the upper and the valve cover.
Modular2v, I run the ford racing a/c delete kit that brings the power steering up to near where the a/c compressor used to be. I don't run the fugly march free wheeling a/c delete kit that keeps the ps in the stock location.
Misl302, I had to give my H pipe a little bend to make it fit my 1 3/4" bbk longtubes. I used that same H pipe on the 1 5/8" bbk longtubes I had and it fit fine. Give it a little bend and have a friend help you line it up.
Misl302, I had to give my H pipe a little bend to make it fit my 1 3/4" bbk longtubes. I used that same H pipe on the 1 5/8" bbk longtubes I had and it fit fine. Give it a little bend and have a friend help you line it up.
Another update:
I did a nice 2nd gear to 4th gear pull on the street. I datalogged my pull and loaded it up to my computer. The a/f is a bit rich for sure. Its mostly in the low 12's across, but it dips into the 11.8:1 range in a few spots. I gotta lean it out best I can so its around 12.8-13.0.There should be a few hp to be gained there. I guess over all the a/f tune isn't too terrible unlike how my old 302 was. Once I dial in my a/f, i'll try a few more *'s of timing.
I've only taken it to like 5500-6000, I haven't pulled it to 6600 yet. Once I tune it and take it to a 6600 shift, it should feel nice
I did a nice 2nd gear to 4th gear pull on the street. I datalogged my pull and loaded it up to my computer. The a/f is a bit rich for sure. Its mostly in the low 12's across, but it dips into the 11.8:1 range in a few spots. I gotta lean it out best I can so its around 12.8-13.0.There should be a few hp to be gained there. I guess over all the a/f tune isn't too terrible unlike how my old 302 was. Once I dial in my a/f, i'll try a few more *'s of timing.
I've only taken it to like 5500-6000, I haven't pulled it to 6600 yet. Once I tune it and take it to a 6600 shift, it should feel nice
On 16" drag radials i'd like to break into the 11's @ 118+. I need more gear and i'm hoping to do 4.10's down the road. With the right gear (4.10-4.30) and a 6000 rpm launch I can see it going 11.00's but that'll never happen. Hell, if I can run 11.99999 @ 118+ I will smile 
I can tell you from a light when i punch it hard, it hooks. I know when my car hooks because my radio always falls out
For dyno power, i'd guess 375-380rwhp.
I did some more tuning and datalogging today. I just need to hook up my rpm converter for my wideband so my a/f will show with rpm. This way I know exactly where to make changes. I been lazy though.
I can tell you from a light when i punch it hard, it hooks. I know when my car hooks because my radio always falls out For dyno power, i'd guess 375-380rwhp.
I did some more tuning and datalogging today. I just need to hook up my rpm converter for my wideband so my a/f will show with rpm. This way I know exactly where to make changes. I been lazy though.
Well let us know when you get some more info on that ( I know you will)
Im sure you want everything running safely though before you do that.
GL>
RC
Im sure you want everything running safely though before you do that.
GL>
RC
Similar threads
