351 heads on a 302

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bad68coupe said:
How large are the e7 valves?
and what about GT40 heads?
i was also interested in the GT40P heads but i heard they require some sort of special header is that correct?
E7's have the same valves as the rest of the 302 heads-- 1.78/1.45. They flow a bit more due to port revisions that improved them over the earlier stock small block heads. Simply doing a couple hours work on the exhaust side improves them even more. GT40P heads flow better than the E7's, but they have a relocated spark plug, that centered the tip in the chamber and to do this, the angle of the plug was changed. This change results in interference in many small block header tubes. The bolt pattern is the same as others, but the plug angle causes problems.
 
68stangman said:
The only heads I remember reading about that would give a benefit is a '69 or '70 351 head. The valves are somewhat larger. Intake is 1.84 versus 1.78, and exhaust is 1.54 over 1.46

They were great back then because they looked just like a 302 head, and your oponent could not tell your engine was better breathing. There were very limited aftermarket options back then. That head swap was about as good as you could get for the money.
Today, it would still be an upgrade, however, there is an aftermarket out there with better options. If I had the 351 heads already in hand, I would be inclined to use them. I would definately have them worked on. At least a three angle valve job and hardened seats (unleaded gas). I would also want bronze valve guides.
If I didn't already have them, I would not seek them out.
I'd just rather go aftermarket or rework E7's and have the 1.9/1.6 valves installed.

My .02

What are hardened seats? and what kind of work are you talking about on the exhaust side Hearne? lastly i found a set of E7 on ebay, and they are old, i know i have to have them magnafluxed but what other kinds of machining needs to be done before they are good to go, should i replace the valves?
 
Were it me, I would not spend real $$$ on E7 (truck) heads. I would port what I had (assuming you have stock stuff) and add the larger valves. The C/DOOE heads are a better option if not more than 1-200.00/pr

Just my opinion.
 
They are on my friends Cougar I've been working on. I never tried bolting anything else on them but I think you might have problems with headers. The ones we are using are Ford motorsport. We had to dimple the headers to get the damn things to clear the steering box. I'm sure it would be worse with a manual trans, we put an AOD in his car. Passenger side fit just fine.
 
Rusty67 said:
They are on my friends Cougar I've been working on. I never tried bolting anything else on them but I think you might have problems with headers. The ones we are using are Ford motorsport. We had to dimple the headers to get the damn things to clear the steering box. I'm sure it would be worse with a manual trans, we put an AOD in his car. Passenger side fit just fine.

MAC makes a set of cermic coated headers designed for the GT40P's.
 
bad68coupe said:
What are hardened seats? and what kind of work are you talking about on the exhaust side Hearne? lastly i found a set of E7 on ebay, and they are old, i know i have to have them magnafluxed but what other kinds of machining needs to be done before they are good to go, should i replace the valves?
There are two types of hardened seats. One is the factory inductioned hardened where they heat the seats to a certain temp with a tool much like a soldering iron, then quench them. This results in a hardened layer a few thousandths thick on the surface of the seat. The other type is where the machinist cuts out a large amount of metal from the seat area and presses in a hard steel seat to replace the metal removed. On the exhaust side of the small block ports, there is a protruding casting for the Thermactor Air injection passage. I remove the protrusion, widen the port, raise the roof and blend this all down into the area under the valve. I smooth the area under the intake side as well. I leave the stock valves in the finished head. I have a local machine shop do the valve job afterward and they use a Serdi machine to surface the seats (the end result is something akin top the old 3 or 5 angle valve job)
 
D.Hearne said:
There are two types of hardened seats. One is the factory inductioned hardened where they heat the seats to a certain temp with a tool much like a soldering iron, then quench them. This results in a hardened layer a few thousandths thick on the surface of the seat. The other type is where the machinist cuts out a large amount of metal from the seat area and presses in a hard steel seat to replace the metal removed. On the exhaust side of the small block ports, there is a protruding casting for the Thermactor Air injection passage. I remove the protrusion, widen the port, raise the roof and blend this all down into the area under the valve. I smooth the area under the intake side as well. I leave the stock valves in the finished head. I have a local machine shop do the valve job afterward and they use a Serdi machine to surface the seats (the end result is something akin top the old 3 or 5 angle valve job)

is one of those types of hardened seats better than the other? and what purpose do they serve?
 
Before the '87-'93 5.0L Mustangs came into being, there were only a few stock head options small-block Ford owners had when upgraing to more performance-oriented cylinder heads; 289 Hi-Po heads (not easy to find, and expensive when you did find them), '69-'76 351W heads, or 2V 351 Cleveland heads (or the better Autralian 2V 351C heads).

The Hi-Po 289 heads and 351W were prertty much a direct bolt on.

A guy who lives in Fort Smith, Arkansas named Gary Roughly is the designer, and used to be the producer through B&A Ford, of a specialty intake that was used in conjunction with adapting the 351C heads to the 289/302/351W blocks. --Actually, there were two intakes he produced for the 'Clevor' swap; There was a "Street Boss" version intake, and a "Track Boss" version intake. This was a popular swap in the '80s and into the very early '90s before there were many aftermarket performance heads available from people like Trick Flow, AFR, Brodix, Ford, etc.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/30220/

If you live near Tulsa, Oklahoma, you may have seen Gary Roughly racing around the track at Hallet Raceway. He has a black '69 sportsroof with gold '69 Boss-style stripes on the side of the car that say; "Track Boss 351W."

Anymore, the Clevor swap isn't so popular, because the aftermarket started heavily producing performance heads by the mid-90s specifically for the small-blocks that have better flow and don't require as many modifications to the blocks or reciprocating assemblies to use them.


www.ultrastang.com
 
bad68coupe said:
is one of those types of hardened seats better than the other? and what purpose do they serve?
The pressed in seats will give longer service, thru multiple valve jobs due to the thicker hardened steel. After two valve jobs with induction seats, the hard metal will have been removed. Their purpose is to keep the valve from pounding into the head, they weren't needed before the introduction of leaded gas, the lead served as a cushion between the seat and valve.
 
D.Hearne said:
The pressed in seats will give longer service, thru multiple valve jobs due to the thicker hardened steel. After two valve jobs with induction seats, the hard metal will have been removed. Their purpose is to keep the valve from pounding into the head, they weren't needed before the introduction of leaded gas, the lead served as a cushion between the seat and valve.

am i really going to need to do that much work just for my 302 daily driver? it seems really kinda like its more for performance oriented engines.:SNSign: