351 under stock hood
- Thread starter 393 notch
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I don't know anything about getting the spyder to clear a stock hood. (In all honesty I nearly fainted when I saw the price of the spyder) It is a great intake though; probably worth every penny.
Here is what I do know about the motor mounts though.
jason
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/fox351wswapfaq.htm
Engine Mounts-
Stock 5.0 mounts will bolt up to the 351w. Aftermarket alternatives include solid mounts and polyurethane mounts. Convertible Engine mounts are rumored to be stronger & shorter. Another alternative is a set of lowering engine mounts from either Year One, Moroso, or HP Motorsports (HPM). These are solid and lower the motor ~¾”. Lowering engine mounts are useful for gaining hood clearance, but will also reduce clearance between the oil pan and stock k-member. This presents clearance issues with some aftermarket pans and stock k-members, but should be ok for the FRPP pan. The use of an aftermarket tubular k-member may help improve clearance with aftermarket oil pans.
Un-Confirmed –
From 87-90 the convertible Mustang had the “captured” mount design, while the Hardtops had the standard design. The captured style mounts are said to be ½” to 1” lower, and to be stronger.
In 90 and later Mustangs, ALL were equipped with the captured design.
Aftermarket Prothane mounts are said to mimic the design of the early Hardtops. While the Energy mounts are said to mimic the convertible “captured” mounts. So, Energy Engine Mounts should be the same height as the 87-90 convertible “captured” motor mounts
Here is what I do know about the motor mounts though.
jason
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/fox351wswapfaq.htm
Engine Mounts-
Stock 5.0 mounts will bolt up to the 351w. Aftermarket alternatives include solid mounts and polyurethane mounts. Convertible Engine mounts are rumored to be stronger & shorter. Another alternative is a set of lowering engine mounts from either Year One, Moroso, or HP Motorsports (HPM). These are solid and lower the motor ~¾”. Lowering engine mounts are useful for gaining hood clearance, but will also reduce clearance between the oil pan and stock k-member. This presents clearance issues with some aftermarket pans and stock k-members, but should be ok for the FRPP pan. The use of an aftermarket tubular k-member may help improve clearance with aftermarket oil pans.
Un-Confirmed –
From 87-90 the convertible Mustang had the “captured” mount design, while the Hardtops had the standard design. The captured style mounts are said to be ½” to 1” lower, and to be stronger.
In 90 and later Mustangs, ALL were equipped with the captured design.
Aftermarket Prothane mounts are said to mimic the design of the early Hardtops. While the Energy mounts are said to mimic the convertible “captured” mounts. So, Energy Engine Mounts should be the same height as the 87-90 convertible “captured” motor mounts
yes the spider is nice,and the price too, i got the optional fuel lines and adaptors lines and that was 300.00 more but it looks great for the stock, ive seen lots of 351 fox body stangs with the stock hood, wish i knew a sure fire way to get that combo to us ethe stock hood.. if i have to im with the goodmark steel cowl hood..thx
A more aggressive option would be to use a tubular K-member that will drop the motor.
I think some of them will drop the motor a full inch.
Use some 1/2" shorter motor mounts on that, and you could be in pretty good shape.
That may impact ground clearance for long tubes though
Personally, I shaved down the upper intake that I am using, in order to gain the clearance I needed.
Point is you are only limited by how creative you are willing to get.
Feel free to bounce ideas off us.
good luck,
jason
I think some of them will drop the motor a full inch.
Use some 1/2" shorter motor mounts on that, and you could be in pretty good shape.
That may impact ground clearance for long tubes though
Personally, I shaved down the upper intake that I am using, in order to gain the clearance I needed.
Point is you are only limited by how creative you are willing to get.
Feel free to bounce ideas off us.
good luck,
jason
Thanks Jason, i thought about cutting down the coast high elbow and with the lowered motor mounts i might be in the ball park, but as you know, money is a factor. if i go the tubular k member route w/ lowering mounts, that might do it for the same price of a cowl hood and paint. ill research it. thx jay
Kumm3
Founding Member
Hell, i have a 302 with the coast high spyder and it didnt clear the hood.
But i have never heard that energy susp. vs. prothane mounts before. Im using prothanes so i might look into swapping to the energy susp. ones so i can run a stock hood again.
But i have never heard that energy susp. vs. prothane mounts before. Im using prothanes so i might look into swapping to the energy susp. ones so i can run a stock hood again.
302RollinHard
New Member
393, be careful with the dropped K member and lowered motor mounts. The combination could lead to driveline geometry issues. This little piece of info came from Anthony @ AJE racing. Great tubular K members by the way. He actually talked me out of buying his K member with the dropped mounts. Not saying you will have problems, but some folks do. For what it is worth the 2" Goodmark hood from Jegs is a very high quality piece, and can't beat the price. The XE274 cam is also highly recommended (depending on supporting parts).
im not into the k member upgrade, this is just a cruiser for the nice weather,im going to go with the drop motor mounts for now and see where the motor sits, then go from there . im using motorsport stainless shorties 1 5/8 w/ bassani x-pipe 2 1/2 into flowmaster cat back 3 chamber..p.s. coast high 393 stroker kit cast steel crank forged rods and pistons, afr 185 heads w/ upgrade springs,xe 274 comp cam, promagnum roller rockers, tremec tko 600, spec stage 2 clutch, 373 8.8 rear..im hoping to run in the 12s
If you do swap out the mounts I would really like to hear some feedback.
Please contact me if you go through with swapping them out.
best of luck
jason
Kumm3
Founding Member
ill def let people know when i do it. will be a few months off though, since im having more issues putting my engine back together than i care to deal with at the moment
25thmustang
Mustang Master
We are actually building a similar combo to that. 393 stroker, AFR 185s, Vic Jr intake, 750 carb, on a Proshifted T5. Unsure on the cam right now, but the goal is under 6500 RPM, 10s all motor, 9s on a hit!
Woodrow
Founding Member
If you are on the corral pm WindsorNotchback he ran that exact intake setup on his car and it fit under the stock hood.
"I did it with a 1-1/2" drop on my k-member, and a short elbow on top of my converted Super Vic. If your going with a converted Vic Jr, its a little shorter than the Super Vic. I had to use one, 1/4" spacer between the Super Vic and the elbow, to raise the linkage up off of the fuel rail. I have 3/4" of hood clearance. I thought the lowered motor would have really caused my 60's to suffer, but it didn't, at least not by much.".
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=595772
theres the link where they were speaking about it
theres the link where they were speaking about it
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