Fox 351ci to 393ci stroker

92 "Kane"

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#1
Im a auto tech. Just starting out on building cars. Had my 92 Hatch for over a year now and I want to swap the 351 windosr and stroke it to a 393ci. What are a good list of parts and brands i should use?
 

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90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#2
What are you going to use it for ? Is it 5 speed or auto ?

You'll need a 351 block.... and a trans that'll hold the power. Are you planning on any add ons like nitrous, blower, or turbo ?
 

92 "Kane"

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#3
What are you going to use it for ? Is it 5 speed or auto ?

You'll need a 351 block.... and a trans that'll hold the power. Are you planning on any add ons like nitrous, blower, or turbo ?
Building a street car manual trans. Going with a Centrifugal supercharger.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#4
Not sure exactly what you would need for that application. Some guys here have done it.
 

srtthis

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#5
how much power are you looking to make and whats the budget?

when you start talking blown 351's you are going to start looking at some really high powered stuff here
 

92 "Kane"

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#6
how much power are you looking to make and whats the budget?

when you start talking blown 351's you are going to start looking at some really high powered stuff here

im aiming for at least 600hp but at the moment do not really have a high budget. No rush to build it either I just want a good list to go off of.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#7
Suspension....brakes....steering... these are all things that needed to be addressed when adding power to a fox. I see you are 5 lug.

Do you have any suspension mods like subframe connectors or shocks and struts ?

I'd recommend sub frame connectors, upgraded brakes, tighter springs, caster camber plates, and a decent tuning system.

The issue is.... if you put 600hp in a stockish fox it'll never get the power safely to the ground.

I remember when i was younger.... all i thought about was power.... and that almost killed me a couple of times.
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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#9
im aiming for at least 600hp but at the moment do not really have a high budget. No rush to build it either I just want a good list to go off of.
if you just want 600hp you honestly dont even need a blower

but you are going to need 1 hell of a transmission to go behind a blown 351, its going to make a lot of torque. do you plan to race it or just drive it?

you'll want 2" primary headers
intake will depend on a lot of other factors EFI... carb... stock style... EFI converted carb style
efi/ignition system Haltech... holley... MS3... MSD...
carb?
 

92 "Kane"

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#10

92 "Kane"

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#11
if you just want 600hp you honestly dont even need a blower

but you are going to need 1 hell of a transmission to go behind a blown 351, its going to make a lot of torque. do you plan to race it or just drive it?

you'll want 2" primary headers
intake will depend on a lot of other factors EFI... carb... stock style... EFI converted carb style
efi/ignition system Haltech... holley... MS3... MSD...
carb?

I want it to be a street car but will also take it to the track here and there. & for my Trans im thinking between C4, or T56. Along with a Holley EFI. Would a Carb or regular intake work best?
 

srtthis

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#12
im a fan of carb intakes and throttle body elbows just cuz they are easier to work on.

as for a the C4 vs T56... both will do the job
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#13
Super Vic Efi intake,”carb style” throttle body(accufab my choice), a super nice set of trick flow heads(at least a 205cc ),a good custom hyd roller cam, proper fuel,ign,exh system, scat rotating assembly with a good forged piston(and if you keep compression around 10:1 or so you don’t even have to worry about octanes). This motor will make 500+ hp and tq (semi docile) all day long. No need to add another 4K in blower -accessories imo for a street car. You’ll never get it to hook up on the street n/a not alone with boost. That n/a motor will run anywhere from 9’s-11’s depending on your cars setup etc. if you want even more for track days just at a nitrous kit. Or go hog wild on the heads and upgrade to a good mechanical roller cam and more compression and you will make well over 600hp.

If you’re dead set on running a boosted motor just concentrate on the blower,induction,heads etc etc and run it on your 351 as is. You’ll still make the same power.

The chassis,suspension,tires all need to be upgraded and there is no overkill in these departments and are mandatory for the power levels you state. The transmission needs to be built to support also. The T56 is a good option albeit expensive and a heavy transmission. I’d recommend a built TKO 600 first. A C4 is fine but no overdrive on the highway will get old.
 

92 "Kane"

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#14
im a fan of carb intakes and throttle body elbows just cuz they are easier to work on.

as for a the C4 vs T56... both will do the job

Ok cool. Holley EFI will be new to me so im looking forward to using one.
 

92 "Kane"

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#15
Super Vic Efi intake,”carb style” throttle body(accufab my choice), a super nice set of trick flow heads(at least a 205cc ),a good custom hyd roller cam, proper fuel,ign,exh system, scat rotating assembly with a good forged piston(and if you keep compression around 10:1 or so you don’t even have to worry about octanes). This motor will make 500+ hp and tq (semi docile) all day long. No need to add another 4K in blower -accessories imo for a street car. You’ll never get it to hook up on the street n/a not alone with boost. That n/a motor will run anywhere from 9’s-11’s depending on your cars setup etc. if you want even more for track days just at a nitrous kit. Or go hog wild on the heads and upgrade to a good mechanical roller cam and more compression and you will make well over 600hp.

If you’re dead set on running a boosted motor just concentrate on the blower,induction,heads etc etc and run it on your 351 as is. You’ll still make the same power.

The chassis,suspension,tires all need to be upgraded and there is no overkill in these departments and are mandatory for the power levels you state. The transmission needs to be built to support also. The T56 is a good option albeit expensive and a heavy transmission. I’d recommend a built TKO 600 first. A C4 is fine but no overdrive on the highway will get old.

This is some good info. I just might consider being N/A for a while then use a power adder in the future. A N/A 600hp car sounds nice.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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#16
Somewhere I read that a basic 393 stroker only needs a 393 crank....the rods and pistons are factory ford parts. I believe its 351 rods and 302 pistons. The 393 is supposed to be the cheapest stroker option.

Granted you have to have a bunch of swap parts to get the engine in....but it still comes out in the wash verses building a 347. Who couldnt use 46 more cubes in a more stable block ?

The rotating assembly still needs to be balanced and the block freshened up...but the pay off is the ability to use stock parts if something fails.

Im not talking about a 700hp monster engine with stock internals. Just the run of the mill 400 - 500hp NA.
 

92 "Kane"

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#17
Somewhere I read that a basic 393 stroker only needs a 393 crank....the rods and pistons are factory ford parts. I believe its 351 rods and 302 pistons. The 393 is supposed to be the cheapest stroker option.

Granted you have to have a bunch of swap parts to get the engine in....but it still comes out in the wash verses building a 347. Who couldnt use 46 more cubes in a more stable block ?

The rotating assembly still needs to be balanced and the block freshened up...but the pay off is the ability to use stock parts if something fails.

Im not talking about a 700hp monster engine with stock internals. Just the run of the mill 400 - 500hp NA.

Great information Thanks ill look into that.
 

Steel1

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#18
I did all the assembly and install on my 393w with help from a buddy.
I paid a machinist for the block/related machine work and to check out and size rotating assembly.
Found a bunch of quality parts on the classifieds, sold 302 parts to help fund and basically tried to do this
on a family friendly budget...lol.
I would estimate intake to pan said and done I have about $4k into the build, not an all out HP monster
but makes for a fun street car.
I guess you could find a good set of stock "football rods" and pistons to save some money but I chose not to.
I got a great deal on a rotating assembly locally...paid $750 for crank,rods and pistons.
 

92 "Kane"

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#19
I did all the assembly and install on my 393w with help from a buddy.
I paid a machinist for the block/related machine work and to check out and size rotating assembly.
Found a bunch of quality parts on the classifieds, sold 302 parts to help fund and basically tried to do this
on a family friendly budget...lol.
I would estimate intake to pan said and done I have about $4k into the build, not an all out HP monster
but makes for a fun street car.
I guess you could find a good set of stock "football rods" and pistons to save some money but I chose not to.
I got a great deal on a rotating assembly locally...paid $750 for crank,rods and pistons.

Yea I need it to be family friendly also lol. But in the neighborhood of 4k isnt that bad. Might run me a little higher considering im aiming for 600hp but all in all it will come together over time. I have a lot of time to do shopping around and putting the list together. Will be my first time going Carb too.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#20
Wouldn't a refreshed 351w with good flowing 11r heads, blower friendly cam, quality intake with a centri blower pushing about 14psi get this guy in the 500+ rwhp range? A boosted 393 combo seems like overkill for a "family friendly" street car. You'll build it up just to tame it down. Only upside I see about the boosted 393" engine is if you ever remove the supercharger you'd be left with a sweet and powerful NA engine.
 

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