351w swap advice

impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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Hey everyone, I’m going to hopefully be installing my carbureted 351w into my 4cyl 82 mustang in the next month or so and was hoping to get some advice. I’d like to preface this by saying this is the first time I’ve done any job like this so my experience is somewhat limited, however I am pretty handy, if I do say so myself hehe...

First, when I get ready to put the engine in, I was wonder what the best route would be with regards to the transmission, tko600. Should I do just the engine/bellhousing on its own and then install the transmission after the engine has been bolted down? Or would the engine/ tranny combo actually fit if I were to try to install it all at once? I would much rather do the latter, but I’m a little worried about clearance issues.

Secondly, I have a B&M 144cfm blower to go with this engine, therefore the compression ratio is 8.2:1 BUT I was wondering if I should try to get the engine up and running with just an intake and carb first to make things easier, especially during break in of the flat tappet cam, or should I just go all in at once and try to set up the blower at the same time? Also with a compression ratio that low would the car even be drivable?

I do know a couple people that are pretty experienced with older cars and will definitely be calling on their help, but ideally I would like to try to do as much of this stuff myself, especially without having it towed to a shop lol.

Thank you in advance for your help!
 
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Boostedpimp

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First, when I get ready to put the engine in, I was wonder what the best route would be with regards to the transmission, tko600. Should I do just the engine/bellhousing on its own and then install the transmission after the engine has been bolted down? Or would the engine/ tranny combo actually fit if I were to try to install it all at once? I would much rather do the latter, but I’m a little worried about clearance issues.
I've done it a few times both ways with an engine and tr3550 and prefer the engine/trans as one install even though it requires a bit more effort. Granted both cars had tubular k members so a little more room for activities than say a factory k member car but stil should be do able.

In my case I had to put the rear of the car on stands while leaving the front down on the wheels. Purchase a load leveler ($25 from harbor freight) and bolt up to the heads of the engine with some chains. Cover the firewall and radiator support with a thick cloth so you can't scrap up the paint with the tailshaft or oil pain and slide the legs of the engine hoist under the front bumper as you use the load leveler to lift the tail shaft up over the rad support the lower it down into the trans tunnel as you move the hoist in. I've done it with the shifter base installed on the trans twice but it is a real pita if your buy yourself trying to slide the trans in the tunnel with that on. I would suggest not installing the shifter base until it is in the car to help make it easier.
 
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impropernick

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Jan 4, 2021
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New Hampshire
I've done it a few times both ways with an engine and tr3550 and prefer the engine/trans as one install even though it requires a bit more effort. Granted both cars had tubular k members so a little more room for activities than say a factory k member car but stil should be do able.

In my case I had to put the rear of the car on stands while leaving the front down on the wheels. Purchase a load leveler ($25 from harbor freight) and bolt up to the heads of the engine with some chains. Cover the firewall and radiator support with a thick cloth so you can't scrap up the paint with the tailshaft or oil pain and slide the legs of the engine hoist under the front bumper as you use the load leveler to lift the tail shaft up over the rad support the lower it down into the trans tunnel as you move the hoist in. I've done it with the shifter base installed on the trans twice but it is a real pita if your buy yourself trying to slide the trans in the tunnel with that on. I would suggest not installing the shifter base until it is in the car to help make it easier.
Ok cool, that's great to hear. Sounds like that's what I will attempt then! Thanks for your input
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I always swing the engine bolted to the trans when installing one. Laying under the car, trying to muscle any transmission into place is always a bitch. If you attempt to install the engine and transmission as a unit, you’ll need to be sure that the car is high enough, and that you have a floor jack to raise the tail of the trans as it makes its way into the engine compartment.

Now…that said…There’s no way in hell a 144 c.i. blower is adequate for that engine. It was power limited when feeding a 289-302…putting it on top of a 351 is a giant waste. The heat that blower will generate will be pretty significant and will further complicate your end goal. 8.2:1 CR will net you an absolutely anemic throttle response…you should rethink the forced induction at the minimum..that engine needs a 174 c.i. blower ( if you’re still gonna use one).

Put a turbo on it,..and be done.
 
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7991LXnSHO

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I always swing the engine bolted to the trans when installing one. Laying under the car, trying to muscle any transmission into place is always a bitch. If you attempt to install the engine and transmission as a unit, you’ll need to be sure that the car is high enough, and that you have a floor jack to raise the tail of the trans as it makes its way into the engine compartment.

Now…that said…There’s no way in hell a 144 c.i. blower is adequate for that engine. It was power limited when feeding a 289-302…putting it on top of a 351 is a giant waste. The heat that blower will generate will be pretty significant and will further complicate your end goal. 8.2:1 CR will net you an absolutely anemic throttle response…you should rethink the forced induction at the minimum..that engine needs a 174 c.i. blower ( if you’re still gonna use one).

Put a turbo on it,..and be done.
A big blower sticking out through the hood looks cool. A belt driven snail blower that fits under the hood is likely more efficient. If you put aftermarket EFI on for tuning ease, and can fabricate for the turbo and inter cooler, that’s currently the best power option.
So, how much power do you want from the 351, and is the rest of the car and your budget up to it?
 

CarMichael Angelo

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A big blower sticking out through the hood looks cool. A belt driven snail blower that fits under the hood is likely more efficient. If you put aftermarket EFI on for tuning ease, and can fabricate for the turbo and inter cooler, that’s currently the best power option.
So, how much power do you want from the 351, and is the rest of the car and your budget up to it?
except a weiand or b&m 144 blower isn’t a “ big blower”, and will look more like an eaton m90, except there’s a carburetor mounting flange on top of the thing. Probably the only thing that’ll hang out of the hood with a 144 blower is the carburetor or the air cleaner….

Aside from that, there’ll be the knowledge that that engine, with the right compression, heads, intake and a cam naturally aspirated will outperform any 8.2:1 351 choked by a 144 blower anyway of the week.
 

7991LXnSHO

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except a weiand or b&m 144 blower isn’t a “ big blower”, and will look more like an eaton m90, except there’s a carburetor mounting flange on top of the thing. Probably the only thing that’ll hang out of the hood with a 144 blower is the carburetor or the air cleaner….

Aside from that, there’ll be the knowledge that that engine, with the right compression, heads, intake and a cam naturally aspirated will outperform any 8.2:1 351 choked by a 144 blower anyway of the week.
Yep, I had my part numbers mixed up.

A blower like this in the right displacement (and a hood scoop if needed) might work fine, and it is probably more efficient than a Roots type.
The intercooler on a turbo or centrifugal supercharger will be a big help. I have seen OEM valley superchargers with water intercoolers. Good luck getting a Caddy factory unit to fit a Winsor. Maybe there is an aftermarket combo for Fords I missed.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Yep, I had my part numbers mixed up.

A blower like this in the right displacement (and a hood scoop if needed) might work fine, and it is probably more efficient than a Roots type.
The intercooler on a turbo or centrifugal supercharger will be a big help. I have seen OEM valley superchargers with water intercoolers. Good luck getting a Caddy factory unit to fit a Winsor. Maybe there is an aftermarket combo for Fords I missed.
They used to make it for a SBF, maybe somebody decided it wasn’t worth the powder to blow it to hell, and stopped making it. Now it looks like they only make the 174 kit

565eb0955ad9a503ece94d33e6b18398__55264.1621361965.jpg

Just look at how long the front drive is, I think they make a brace that bolts onto that elephant trunk to add support to keep it from flexing.
 
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impropernick

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Thank you guys for your responses. However, I already have the blower lol, I bought them and the car from my uncle for real, real cheap ~10years ago, and he had gotten the blower, engine, and car I THINK around 1990. That being said, I've spent quite a bit of money in supporting mods for the car itself, transmission, differential, brakes, suspension, ignition etc. So I'm going to try to use the ol' 351w and B&M blower he gave me, and if it doesn't work it, I'll be saving more money lmao. Honestly a 174, or bigger would be better, but I have what I have.