351W swap questions

no times yet...no track close to me..but if money and time permits i might take up to a dyno next summer, cam is a Ed Curtis cam..has close to .600 lift bout all i can say :nice:

vristang you say capped off TB/VC hose? whats the reason for this?
 
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DemonGT said:
vristang you say capped off TB/VC hose? whats the reason for this?

Excessive oil flow through the pcv.
I added an oil seperator and installed a restrictor in the TB/VC hose. That helped, but I still had large amounts of oil puddling in the intake, and the motor idled and ran like it had a vac leak. Capped the line off and things got alot better. Avg fuel economy increased by about 3 mpg. My theory is that the gapless rings are providing a stronger vac than the pcv can handle. I still have the pcv in place and still get a little oil in the seperator, but only have to dump it about every second or third fueling, depending on how often I hit WOT. The down side is that I am not sure if the crank case gasses/moisture/volatiles are venting adequately. I have been watching the condition of the oil, which seems to be ok after nearly 2,000 miles. I am running mobil 1.

Sorry for jacking the thread. I don't think this is very common when doing a 351w/stroker swap. I think it has more to do with the gapless rings and valve timing of the cam (overlap).

DemonGT;
Can you provide some detail on the rings you are using? I doubt the custom cam came with any specs? Any details you can provide about your setup (which seems fairly similar to mine) may help me to understand my oil control issues.

jason
 
sure...just have to dig up the paper work...as far as the cam goes yes..i have a spec sheet..but don't like to get into to much detail on it..as i paid the extra money for a custom cam..or mainly Ed's judgement as to what i should have or needed...wouldn't be quite far to give away the specs so someone else can buy something similar off the shelf for a lot less

as i said the cam doesn't have .600 lift but its up there in the high .500..it would be over .600 with 1.7 rockers, if there is something specific you want to know..PM me

as far as the rings and such i had the short block built..not sure what some of these numbers mean

it says Ring Combination 1/16-1/16-3/16 Gap, Top .018 Second .016
Ring lands: .225"-.135"-.070"

other then that..it just says JE Rings....not sure if any of that helps at all
 
vristang said:
I actually ran stock 302 heads on the 351w for a while. Not near as much power, but still held their own.

Feel free to contact me if you have other question
jason

Jason,

I'm actually considering running stock E7s on my windsor until I save the coin for some good heads. How did it run? RPM band? Power?

Thanks.
 
broncobuddha said:
Jason,

I'm actually considering running stock E7s on my windsor until I save the coin for some good heads. How did it run? RPM band? Power?

Thanks.

I can only compare to the 302 that I was running before swapping, which had a cobra lower and comp cams box upper. The 302 had very little low end power, it was almost unbearable. At about 4500rpm it cam to life though. The 302 felt strong to a little over 6200, which was as high as I ever tried to run.
When the 351w went in with a lightning lower and the same comp cam upper, I regained all the bottom end, but didn't seem to gain much in the top end. The stock 351w bottom end (out of a 80's Bronco) seemed ok with revving over 6k, but I didn't do it too often as it was a j/y motor.
I never did get 1/4 mile times or dyno #'s.

A 351 with stock heads should have more torque and low end power than a 302. However stock heads and intake are somewhat restrictive in the top end, even for high revving 302s. Porting the stock heads will help, but I wouldn't spend the money on that for a 351w. Even ported stock heads will still be a restriction. Ported aftermarket heads should will work quite well though.:nice:

Keep an eye out for used heads. Sometimes fully ported/assy heads can be found for what new bare heads would cost.

Hope that anwers your question.
Good Luck
 
pb_paulie_b said:
it depends on what imbalance your crank is. your better off with any link bar hyd. roller lifter than drilling and tapping. mine are from cat and cost $140...PB



Where did you find link bar lifters for $140?? cat?? All i have seen are like $300+ soory this post may be old i found it by searching. thanks